Model of 1950 Military Find - UPDATED

younggun22 · Jan 27, 2019

I have been on a real run lately of buying ugly derelict guns and this one is no different.

I picked this one up locally and it was advertised as rusty and not working, which was pretty accurate and the price reflected it

I took it home and popped the side plate and quickly realized that the reason why it wasn't working... the hand spring was missing! So that's an easy fix.

The numbers all match and the target stocks are in good shape. The S/N says it was made in 1952-53 and the mechanics seem to be spot on.

I am going to soak it for a few days and then hit it with some 0000 steel wool and hope that the finish comes around. Any other suggestions are welcome!

Troystat · Jan 27, 2019

Looks like it came with some nice grips. Be careful with steel wool, you might try bronze wool first. Also a good soaking in oil and then rubbing it down might be a good first step. Looks like a lot of fun.

quinn · Jan 27, 2019

You might want to soak for a week in a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone. Best if you cover to keep the acetone from evaporating too quickly. Rust will be removed without harming blue. My '50 /army is also well used. Scarce guns though.

ABPOS · Jan 27, 2019

So this is a model of 1950???

younggun22 · Jan 27, 2019

Going to pick up some ATF and an empty paint can this week and give it a good soak.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hondo44 · Jan 27, 2019

ABPOS said:
So this is a model of 1950???

Yup, the 1st issue with the short action (speed action) and 1st style narrow speed hammer.

Assuming by Military you mean it's a 44 Spl, it's a pre model 21.

Great catch! I'd stick to bronze wool only. With Blue Wonder cleaner and then the Blue wonder bluing at Brownells:

BLUE WONDER GUN BLUE & BLACK KITS | Brownells

younggun22 · Jan 27, 2019

Hondo44 said:
Yup, the 1st issue with the short action (speed action) and 1st style narrow speed hammer.

Assuming by Military you mean it's a 44 Spl, it's a pre model 21.

Great catch! I'd stick to bronze wool only. With Blue Wonder cleaner and then the Blue wonder bluing at Brownells:

BLUE WONDER GUN BLUE & BLACK KITS | Brownells

It's 45 ACP so a Pre-22 or 1950 Army.

Walter Rego · Jan 27, 2019

Here is what it started out looking like. With a little TLC the OP's should be a fine shooter. What's not to love about a large caliber N frame ?

StrawHat · Jan 27, 2019

The difference between the Model 1950 and a commercial 1917 is the short action a hammer block?

Kevin

younggun22 · Jan 27, 2019

StrawHat said:
The difference between the Model 1950 and a commercial 1917 is the short action a hammer block?

Kevin

Mechanically yes. There are some slight cosmetic differences as well

StrawHat · Jan 27, 2019

younggun22 said:
Mechanically yes. There are some slight cosmetic differences as well

Would you mind elaborating?

Kevin

younggun22 · Jan 28, 2019

StrawHat said:
Would you mind elaborating?

Kevin

Sure!

The roll marks on the barrel are different, the side plate has the large S&W logo roll mark and the frame is marked with the 4 line address.

Also these were built on the post war frame, not the pre war frame so those differences apply here as well.

mikepriwer · Jan 28, 2019

The soaking in ATF and acetone will get the rust out, but I think the bigger problem is what looks like severe surface pitting and damage. If that is what it is, then that is another issue.

Mike Priwer

ABPOS · Jan 28, 2019

For some reason I thought all Model of 1950's had shrouded ejector rods. It seems like this is the first I've seen without that.

younggun22 · Jan 28, 2019

mikepriwer said:
The soaking in ATF and acetone will get the rust out, but I think the bigger problem is what looks like severe surface pitting and damage. If that is what it is, then that is another issue.

Mike Priwer

it must just be the pictures because it just appears to be surface rust when you have it in hand, so I am hopeful for the Acetone and ATF

Only time will tell though

Hondo44 · Jan 28, 2019

younggun22 said:
It's 45 ACP so a Pre-22 or 1950 Army.

Oh of course, my mistake. The 44 Military would have the barrel shroud.

67tempest · Jan 28, 2019

I agree that you should use bronze wool instead of steel wool. My local Home Depot didn't have any so I bought some at a local woodworking supply store. More expensive that steel wool but it didn't harm the finish of the rifle I used it on.

dockmurgw · Jan 28, 2019

Speaking of rust, this article has some interesting methods. Some day I'm going to buy a rust bucket and try these out.
The Penny Method of Removing Gun Rust | Range365

Hondo44 · Jan 28, 2019

StrawHat said:
The difference between the Model 1950 and a commercial 1917 is the short action a hammer block?

Kevin

No, we're talking about two models that are both com'l models:

Model 1917 'Post War Transitional Model'; the 1st 1917 introduced after the war is basically like a pre war 1917 with the addition of the improved post war hammer block safety, the sliding bar type.

'Model of 1950'; this next model has a significant engineering upgrade, S&W's new "high speed action", AKA the short action. New style hammers, and on target models, micro click sights with ribbed barrels were also introduced. The SCSW describes all details of the changes.

Hondo44 · Jan 28, 2019

younggun22 said:
it must just be the pictures because it just appears to be surface rust when you have it in hand, so I am hopeful for the Acetone and ATF

Only time will tell though

If there's rust, there's pitting, period. To have rust a commensurate amount of steel had to have been converted to iron oxide. There's no getting around that fact.

Fine surface rust will only cause fine surface pitting. Heavy rust will cause deep pitting.

What people call "patina" or the dark brown surface coloring is nothing more than bluing (a controlled rusting process) turned to 'uncontrolled' fine surface rust that has been arrested by handling, wiped down, or oiled but not removed. At this point it's actually somewhat protective not unlike bluing.

Model of 1950 Military Find - UPDATED

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