Revolver ID assitance please

[308plinkervt]

Hi guys, attempting to identify a pistol for a neighbor.
No model number in the yoke - just matching 4 digit numbers, although I see a B in the flat under the barrel with a serial 138xxx. Serial # on the butt is just numbers (no letter present). 6 rounds, hand ejector. Right side of barrel has Smith & Wesson Springfield Mass, patents listed from March '94, May '95, Aug and Dec '96, Oct and Dec '01 and Feb '06. Left side of barrel "38 s&w special" over "US service ctg's". Both sides of barrel have cross like marks on each end of the other stampings previously outlined. Barrel is approx 4". I am seeing 5 plate screws (one in "front") and a grip tensioner/strain screw. The only other visible exterior marking is the S&W trademark logo on the plate. The grips are wood, they appear to be outdoorsman/m&p and have no medallions inserted near the tops, the "round" at the top is just smooth. Rear sighting is a simple grooving/fixed arrangment, front blade appears forged with the barrel. It is blued with some patina and the story behind it is it appears police issued, or at least used by an officer at some point. I have the holster belt with its array of pouches and even an old Argus "the iron claw" and pouch.
I am hesitant to post pictures as it is not mine to do so but am looking for identification help and will share if need. Thanks all. B.

[DARE]

Sounds like a .38 M&P. From the SN pretty early, maybe before WWI.

[DWalt]

Without a picture, it would be either a Model of 1902 (if it has a round butt) or a Model of 1905 (if it has a square butt). The serial number would date it from around 1910. The U. S. Service Ctg is the .38 Long Colt, which was the official US military cartridge of that period. Much the same as the .38 Special, except a little bit shorter. The dual caliber barrel stamping stopped around the time that one was made, but a little later. The highest SN on my list with it is around 147xxx.

[JP@AK]

Your neighbor's revolver is a .38 Hand Ejector from about 1908-09. At that time, it would still have been called a Model of 1905, assuming a square butt.

The dual cartridge designation indicates the revolver's capability to use either the .38 S&W Special or the .38 Long Colt cartridge. That marking basically disappeared around 1909.

It sounds like the walnut stocks are original. If your friend removed them, he might be able to see the gun's serial number written with a pencil on the inside of the right panel.

The B on the barrel flat indicates this revolver left the factory with a blue finish.

DWalt snuck in as I was typing.

[308plinkervt]

Thank you guys!
It does indeed have penciled in numbers inside (: also verified same number on the cylinder. These old critters never cease to amaze me with the craftsmanship. Astounding. It's had a good cleansing, everything is looking pretty darn good for nearly 115 years old. We're going to find or build some rounds and test it out some time. Maybe not too soon as it's a tad chilly here. Thank you all again, very much.
PS: It is a square butt, 1905. As I am unused to this can I get a little clarity on the model if I was to be going to a parts source like Numerich? It appears to be a M&P/outdoorsman/k22, k38, army38 etc as per the catalog? It doesn't need a thing right now for parts but I'd like him to have the info in case it ever does. Thanks again. B

[Muley Gil]

Welcome to the Forum.

Standard velocity (non +P) lead 158 grain .38 special should shoot the best in this revolver.

[DARE]

The Standard Catalog of S&W 4th Edition calls your gun a .38 M&P Model of 1905. Based on the SN could be a 1st or 2nd Change. Minor changes between the 1st and 2nd. Says 2nd has two dowel pins in the star extractor.
This book is pretty much the Bible for S&W collectors.

[glowe]

38 Hand Ejector, Model 1905, 2nd Change. Likely shipped in 1909. Starting in 1910, medallions were changed to a gold medallion style. 2nd Change revolvers were from around 120,000 to 146,899 and manufactured for only a couple years 1908 - 1909.

[JSR III]

Welcome to the forum.

a M&P/outdoorsman/k22, k38, army38

Not sure where you took this from but definitely NOT a K22 or Outdoorsman. The K 22 is a "K" frame .22 caliber revolver.

Your gun is a K frame .38 caliber revolver shooting the .38 S&W Special cartridge. Not to be confused with the .38 S&W cartridge. The special cartridge due to its larger size required a longer cylinder and cylinder window than those firing the shorter .38 S&W cartridge.

[Muley Gil]

Originally Posted by JSR III

Welcome to the forum.



Not sure where you took this from but definitely NOT a K22 or Outdoorsman. The K 22 is a "K" frame .22 caliber revolver.

Your gun is a K frame .38 caliber revolver shooting the .38 S&W Special cartridge. Not to be confused with the .38 S&W cartridge. The special cartridge due to its larger size required a longer cylinder and cylinder window than those firing the shorter .38 S&W cartridge.

Only in the I frame revolvers, which were enlarged to the J frame to accommodate the .38 special cartridge.

[308plinkervt]

Originally Posted by JSR III

Not sure where you took this from but definitely NOT a K22 or Outdoorsman. The K 22 is a "K" frame .22 caliber revolver.

Thank you all again, we're solid on the square butt model 1905 and the 38LC & 38Special caliber stuff. The k/outdoorsman is literally from the Numerich catalog that lumps them all together in/with/under the designation/group M&P. Same page also shows what I took to be the same pistol in question here and I see no specific reference to the model 1905 hence my asking about clarity. The Numerich catalog appears to go at least partly by age in S&W models and I see top-breaks, then 1917, then M&P and on to letter models with sub designations and no reference of the 1905 under k-frame. Was hoping someone else here had had some experience with Numerich in this respect but it looks like a "order it and inspect" situation. Like I mentioned previous it needs nothing right now, lockup is fairly solid and I expect it to have no shootability issues. I personally like to see (super)crispness in timing/lockup parts and this one moves just a smidge more than that. I had a Taurus that after a trip back to it's mother ship in FL they said was "all set to go" that I personally wouldn't run another round through it due to sloppiness and I feel excessive particles coming back at the shooter (amongst other glaring concerns). Again, thank you all.