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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #51  
Old 03-21-2020, 11:44 PM
k22fan k22fan is offline
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Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish?  
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This is just the first thought through a tired little amateur pea-brain. The trigger's engagement with the hammer's SA notch is what holds the cocked hammer back. If the hammer stud is a little loose then without one end supported by the side plate as you push the hammer forward to deliberately cause push off you are relocating the hammer further forward making the SA notch over lap the trigger more. Wide awake gunsmiths or hobbyists are welcome to correct me.

By the way, the sear is alternatively called the double action fly. The hammer's SA notch is not called the sear. To correct push off you stone the trigger, not the sear or SA notch. Instructions are in 500Magnum Nut's FAQ sticky in the gunsmithing sub-forum. Unfortunately all his pictures have been lost and in this case the picture told the story.
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Old 03-22-2020, 12:00 AM
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Waveski Waveski is offline
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Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish?  
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Don't know.
What I do know is - if you cycle the action under normal spring tension and test push-off with the side plate off you are risking bending the posts that are under load and are usually supported by the side plate.

Taking a flyer at $200 does not sound bad.
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Old 03-22-2020, 12:30 AM
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BC38 BC38 is offline
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Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish? Can this be original finish?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k22fan View Post
This is just the first thought through a tired little amateur pea-brain. The trigger's engagement with the hammer's SA notch is what holds the cocked hammer back. If the hammer stud is a little loose then without one end supported by the side plate as you push the hammer forward to deliberately cause push off you are relocating the hammer further forward making the SA notch over lap the trigger more. Wide awake gunsmiths or hobbyists are welcome to correct me.

By the way, the sear is alternatively called the double action fly. The hammer's SA notch is not called the sear. To correct push off you stone the trigger, not the sear or SA notch. Instructions are in 500Magnum Nut's FAQ sticky in the gunsmithing sub-forum. Unfortunately all his pictures have been lost and in this case the picture told the story.
Good info, and thanks for the correction on my terminology.
That's why I'll probably take it to a pro - I'm not that well versed in the inner workings of revolvers. I understand the principles and am generally familiar with the parts, just not very experienced at actually doing the work.
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Originally Posted by Waveski View Post
Don't know.
What I do know is - if you cycle the action under normal spring tension and test push-off with the side plate off you are risking bending the posts that are under load and are usually supported by the side plate.

Taking a flyer at $200 does not sound bad.
Thanks for the warning, I'll be very careful when checking it out.

I appreciate the input guys. Anyone else with any further info, theories, or input please feel free to post up.
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Last edited by BC38; 03-22-2020 at 12:46 AM.
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