Did a search but can't find the answers to these but from this post...


Model 35-1 Info?


...the Model 35 no dash revolvers were all made on the I frame. The 35-1 designates a switch to the J frame which happened in 1960.



Is that correct? I'm looking at one with Mod 35 on the frame below the crane, definitely no dash number so that should make it pre-1960. However, it is wearing service style grips with no diamond which I understand to be more modern.



Trying to get the serial number to narrow down DOM and if/when the seller calls back I'll post that here as well.


I don't know if the J-frame stocks fit an I-frame grip but if so would it be correct to assume that this is indeed a pre-1960 I-frame Model 35 with J-frame grips?

I don’t know about Model 35’s, but I’ve owned a 34-1 that was only marked “MOD 34” in the yoke cut. It was definitely a J frame and the box label was correctly marked 34-1.

Compare the frame window (opening for the cylinder) to a standard J frame (J mag frame windows were longer). I frame windows were noticeably shorter than on a standard J).

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"I also cook."

Don't have the revolver to inspect but I looked at some pictures of I-frames on the net and using my trusty calipers on the screen compared the length vs. width of the cylinder and frame opening.



An I-frame cylinder length is about 1.02 times the width and the frame opening is about 1.115 times. The one I'm looking at has a cylinder l to w ratio of 1.2 and frame opening ratio of 1.15.



Based on this I'm thinking this is a J-frame that doesn't have a -1 designation.


Big fan of Smith and Wessons but not a technical expert so is this possible? The specimen in question isn't getting much love while marked 35-1's are getting loved into the $700 range which also puzzles me.

As for your question about the stocks, beginning in 1953, the grip frame on the I frames and J frames were the same length.

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

I’ve seen too many instances that defy the dates or engineering changes by the dash or no dash. Model 35 no dash should be an improved I frame with a coil main spring. The cylinder windows are a tiny bit different in length, but not as noticeable as the pre war guns. the trigger guard is more rounded, flat latch. A factory letter is the only concrete method of determining the date shipped, frames were made in batches and were randomly pulled when assembled, not by SN.

I'm not a big fan of the I Frame sub-catagories that some folks state as fact. (Late, Improved, Modified, Glorified, etc, I Frame) This photo shows my Pre-35 (non- model marked, #24266 Shipped, 11/56) and a non-model marked Kit Gun I used to own (#13278, ship April 1955). The ship dates are only 5 months apart
The Kit Gun has the 4 screw side plate and might qualify as a late I Frame, but I don't think the 1953- 22/32, Pre, or Model-35 ever had the extra screw clearly making them all J Frame revolvers.


BTW: I had a friend who owned a M-35 for years tell my how he thought it was the Perfect Smith .22. I had to get my own to find to find out how right he was!!As you can see from the date of the pic, I've had it for a number of years, but sold the Kit Gun!
I've traded a very nice Kit Gun and $500 for mine about a decade ago. The they come up for sale,sometimes the sellers, or buyers just don't realize how uncommon this model is, in any form. Normally when you see one it commands a big price!

I had a Model 35-1 I bought new in 1972, had factory smooth target grips. Supica rightly or wrongly differentiated between the I frame and Improved I frame by the leaf mainspring and coil mainspring. There are many variations, Kit Guns in general can be head scratchers.

Yep. My Model of 1953 .22/32 Kit Gun Improved I Frame takes J Frame grips as Supica correctly states. I'm guessing it's a 1956 revolver, but who knows because it has two serial numbers: the butt, cylinder and bbl. flat are stamped 13xxx while the yoke is stamped 58xxx.

Figure that one out.

That’s typical. The number stamped on the inside of the yoke is an assembly number. You’ll also find it stamped on the left side of the grip frame. You will find the serial number stamped on the yoke, but it’s stamped on the back of the yoke arm, in front of the cylinder. It’s difficult to see without removing the yoke and cylinder, but you can see part of the number of you align a charge hole with the arm and shine a flashlight just in front of the cylinder.

__________________
"I also cook."

Using the History of Smith and Wesson by Roy G. Jinks as a reference" Change from I-frame to J-frame authorized in October 1960 and beginning at serial # 70,000. All J-frame guns are stamped Model 34-1 or 35-1."

This is a perfect example of what's great about this forum---it doesn't matter what you don't know, or if what you do know is incorrect. Someone here knows what's right, and is perfectly willing to share it.

Ralph Tremaine

I beg to differ. My point was, you can't always go by the stamped model number. A duck is a duck, even if the tag says it's a rabbit.

Here's the post that you took exception to...

Here's the 1976 vintage Model 34-1 I was describing. You'll note that "MOD 34" was stamped on one line and there simply wasn't room for the "-1". The M prefix (assigned in 1969) and the box label confirm it's a 34-1 (J frame), if you can't tell just by looking.







Here's a later model 34-1 from early 1982. You'll note that they stamped "MOD" on one line and "34-1" on another.



They're both 34-1's, regardless of how they're marked.

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"I also cook."

That "MOD NN" all on one line was the missing piece of the puzzle. The seller didn't take the most comprehensive pictures but the MOD 35 is stamped like your 1976 2" blued model - all on one line with no room after the "5" for anything else. The condition, cylinder length, everything just gave me a gut feeling this is a recent manufacture (relative term) revolver.


And the piece de resistance is that just this morning they added a picture of the serial number and it starts with an M.



It's M507xx. Just for grins could someone with a standard catalog tell me the DOM listed for that?

1973 is what my book says.

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

Mucho garcia! Appreciate it.

Help, please. After removing the yoke and cylinder, I found that the number 58xxx (which is stamped on the inside of the yoke, and which I took to be a second serial number) also is stamped on the back of the yoke arm in front of the cylinder where the serial number should be. There is no assembly or serial number stamped on either side of the grip frame.

To recap: The number 58xxx is stamped on the inside of the yoke and on the back of the yoke arm. The number 13xxx is stamped on the butt, bbl. flat and cylinder. There is no model number, so am I correct in thinking that my flat latch, serrated case colored trigger Kit Gun's probable serial number is 13xxx? Wouldn't there almost certainly be a model number stamped on the yoke if the applicable serial number was 58xxx?

Just when I thought I was out...they pull me back in.

the number in the yoke is not a serial number. It is an assembly number used in manufacture. The number on the butt is the correct serial number. On some target guns shipped with target stocks, you might find the serial number stamped in the yoke area. In those cases the same number would be stamped on the butt.

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Robert
SWCA #2906, SWHF #760

That's not typical at all. Why would S&W stamp two identical assembly #'s, in different places, on the same part? I have no explanation, other than Friday soft fitting after a liquid lunch!

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"I also cook."

Sounds like there was a transition in this era where the serial number on the back of the Yoke arm was converted to an assembly number.

Guy

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

All I can say is that if I ever sell this Kit Gun I am going to raise the asking price by at least $1 because of this exceedingly rare transition era anomaly.