I searched the archives but couldn't find the answer I needed. Probably because it's so simple it should be obvious.
Will a matched calibre barrel and cylinder/yoke assembly from one N frame transfer to any other. Is there a point where Smith changed the threading of barrels, or the attachment specs for the crane assy. I've come into a barrel and cylinder/yoke for a 38/44 and will be on the lookout for a frame (hopefully with all the guts). If anyone knows anyone who may have one (preferably one that has a lot of age-patina) I would like to talk to them. There's a LGC this weekend, if I find one what's a fair price? Rough condition vs. good condition? Also have a couple older gunsmith in the area I'll be checking with. Thanks everyone for your help.

AFAIK, the thread specs for N frame revolvers have remained the same from the beginning. Not all changes of barrels and/or cylinders are “drop in” but a competent gunsmith should be able to install them with a minimal amount of fitting. If this question had come up a few years ago, I would have suggested that you look for a Brazilian Model 1937 from the surplus market for your donor. Today I would just say you’ll have to search for a donor gun where you can find one and pay what you are willing and able to pay, perhaps one with a ruined barrel or some other ill that will make it more attractive.

Froggie

The barrel should screw into any frame. All N frames used .670 36 to the inch threads. The fit of the barrels profile to the frames changes, but guns of the same era are about the same. Also some fitting may well be needed to get the barrel to come up tight with front sight at top dead center. The shank may need adjusted for proper barrel to cylinder clearance.

The front yoke profiles vary some by era. Plus, they must have been finished on their specific frame as I have noticed that the front is not always flush when moved to another frame. The groove that the frame screw rides in to retain the yoke change a while back in the "modern era" from square bottomed to V bottom as they changed to a spring loaded screw. But, a 38-44 cylinder and barrel should match up with anything with a similar front of frame profile. Mostly the rounded area where barrel joins. Later frames and adjustable sight frames have top with a more flattened shape. Still probably need some fitting. Barrel to frame and cylinder, Cylinder timing etc. The yoke may well match up, but, I would look for a frame with a yoke.

As my amphibian amigo above posted, the threads are the same and parts are compatible. As usual when swapping parts, certain things may need a little fitting such as the barrel/cyl gap, cyl end play, hand to cyl ratchets, front face of yoke to the frame contour, and yoke retaining screw to the yoke pivot shaft.

NOTE: I see that my blond gorilla friend beat me to the submit button and his response is more comprehensive.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

@a.brown -- J&G Sales has a pre-war 38/44 hand ejector with sambar stag grips priced at $550. It has a broken Hammer stud which is probably not a difficult fix if you got a tool to unscrew the old Hammer stud and install the new one. Jim and the other posters might comment on this. You can probably make a stud removal cool out of some stainless steel brake line.

Guy

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

Since the stud is broken, you can remove it with a small punch. Strip the frame and secure it in a vise. Use the punch to tap on the slots in the stud. Might want to put some penetrating oil, like Kroil, on it first. The stud has right hand threads-righty tighty, lefty loosey.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

A. Brown did not give me a clue what skills or knowledge he has so in case he doesn't know, the quick answer is he would be VERY lucky if he could assemble his project without a metal lathe and gunsmithing skills.

Also, get a frame with its original side plate. Side plates are "fitted" by swaging them into the frame with a press the sanding then mess afterwards. Very few gunsmiths attempt fitting random side plates to frames.

To remove and especially to install a hammer stud takes a spanner tool. This is one type:



But it's not necessary to buy the expensive tool. One is easily made by using a a much cheaper 1/4" drive deep socket large enough to just fit over the new stud. Use a cut off wheel in a Dremel tool or a hacksaw to remove part of the rim of the socket leaving two lugs as shown above.

You can buy individual sockets at Sears, etc., if you don't have an old one to sacrifice. You can grind off the lugs when finished and still have a functional socket.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Well, I'm not a gunsmith,( not even on tv) but I know a very good one. ( he's not on tv either)Of course any fine fitting will be done by this smith. I'll just be cleaning, sanding , polishing, etc. Oh, and paying.

"You can buy individual sockets at Sears..."

If you can still FIND a Sears.

Most auto parts stores have a selection of sockets, at a reasonable price.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Here is a spanner I had to make for work. At $550 you would be ahead of the game by just buying that one, and replacing the broken stud.

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Randy