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08-14-2020, 06:43 PM
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Stock screw for I-frame diamond-center magnas?
I bought these stocks for my 1958 model 35 no-dash, they came without a screw (I knew this, but I figured "No problem, I've got screws).
Problem is that none of my grip screws will fit these, they are all too large in diameter (#5 IIRC).
What screw do I need, and where can I get one cheap?
Does anyone know the correct thread if I need to fab one?
My option of last resort would be to make the escutcheons fit a new screw, but I'd rather not.
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Last edited by Terry C; 08-14-2020 at 06:45 PM.
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08-14-2020, 07:54 PM
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Screws from J frames may be the same. I am at work, or I would check, and see if mine interchange. I imagine someone on here will know the answer pretty quick though.
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Randy
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08-14-2020, 08:28 PM
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SCREWS
I have a bag of OLD screws-- and a couple RP I frames-- if the screws would be the same I would gladly give one to you NC-- worse case , you could send me the stocks I and I can check if one found would return all to you, NC. Just let me know.
Best
J R
PS, am out of town doing a medical thing but will return on the 26.
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08-15-2020, 06:11 AM
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Your .22/32 Target is built on the Model of 1953 New I frame.
The pre war and for a decades after WWII the I frame grip screw is a 3 x 48, 1" long screw. The 1950 J frame was introduced with the same screw and was used for the same period of time when both the I and J switched to 5 x 44; the transitioned apparently being in the 5-44 NF late 1970's - early 1980s. This appears to correspond to the change to the flat brass escutcheons.
Also the small screw generally corresponds to Blue washers and the large screw to the SS washers; the washer from blue steel 1967 to 1980, to SS 1970 to about 1982, depending on the gun model.
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Jim
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Last edited by Hondo44; 08-16-2020 at 06:56 PM.
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08-16-2020, 10:07 AM
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Thanks Hondo44, that is useful info that I needed!
J.R.Weems I will hook up with you if I haven't found a screw by the time you get back.
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08-16-2020, 05:45 PM
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I should have taken a 'before' pic.
These grips fit pretty well, except for a little bit of overhang at the rear of the grip frame, and the bottom rear corner. About the thickness of my thumbnail. Visible, but to be honest if I'd had a screw i'd be rocking them as is already.
But since I have some time, I decide to see if I could fit them a little better.
220 sandpaper, followed by 0000 steel wool. With the glare, they fit better than they look in the photo. Still not perfect but I'm happy, and now they 'belong' to this revolver.
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08-16-2020, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry C
Thanks Hondo44, that is useful info that I needed!
J.R.Weems I will hook up with you if I haven't found a screw by the time you get back.
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I updated my post #4 with a little more detail on the time frame.
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Jim
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08-17-2020, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44
I updated my post #4 with a little more detail on the time frame.
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Not sure of the correct nomenclature but these have the 'ridge' at the top of the horn where the newer ones are just rounded over. They also have a noticeably more slender profile than the non-diamond stocks that were on the revolver when I got it.
I really love the feel of them.
They have black steel washers and the countersink in the threaded escutcheon, and the escutcheons themselves are smaller in diameter than the newer ones.
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08-18-2020, 01:57 AM
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Some call it "sharp shoulder". An artifact of the grip making process of that period. If there's a serial # stamped on the back of the right grip, I can establish which model they came on and the vintage by the #.
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Jim
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08-18-2020, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44
Some call it "sharp shoulder". An artifact of the grip making process of that period. If there's a serial # stamped on the back of the right grip, I can establish which model they came on and the vintage by the #.
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Wow, thanks! I don't know why I didn't think of that.
There is a number, clearly stamped: 701821
If that number is any indication they didn't come on any .22/32, the serial numbers don't jive, but IF they were on a postwar .32 Hand Ejector then this might apply:
1946-1960 postwar 536685-712953
If that's anywhere near correct, 701821 would put them very near the end of that range. The revolver, near as I can put it, dates to 1958 (my birth year).
Can't get much closer than that with pure dumb luck!
Of course I could be totally off-base and if so feel free to tell me. But for now I'm feeling pretty good about the stocks.
I think they were well worth the $25 price tag (starting bid, I was the only bidder).
.
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Last edited by Terry C; 08-18-2020 at 02:39 PM.
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08-18-2020, 05:57 PM
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Yes they're from a .32 Regulation Police (sq butt) and very close to the vintage of your gun!
I'd feel very good about them and especially at that price!
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Jim
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08-21-2020, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44
Yes they're from a .32 Regulation Police (sq butt) and very close to the vintage of your gun!
I'd feel very good about them and especially at that price!
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Well, I was feeling good, then my screw arrived.
It isn't a 3-48, it's a 4-48.
From the description, it should have been the screw for "J FRAME GUNS THAT TAKE A SMALLER DIAMETER SCREW." And of course it's non-returnable so i'm stuck with it.
Was there ever, to your knowledge, a 4-48 stock screw?
Signed: Still Screwless in the Okefenokee
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Last edited by Terry C; 08-21-2020 at 10:13 PM.
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08-22-2020, 02:18 AM
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No. I'm not aware of any S&W stock screw in 4 x 48. The difference between a 3 x 48 and 4 x 48 is only about .006 to .008" diameter. I presume the 4 x 48 stock will not thread into the stock escutcheon.
Was it sold as an S&W factory screw or a newly manufactured replacement screw?
Does it look like a proper stock screw with only the first 5/16" of the screw shank threaded?
Are we sure the threads in the escutcheon are not stripped or cross threaded?
Do you have another I or J frame with a 3 x 48 stock screw to test the threads?
You can also test the threads by using the top side plate screw from a 5 screw K or N frame (which are the longest), or any M (Ladysmith .22) frame and P (.38 Perfected Model) frame side plate screws.
Since you can't return the screw, if you have Naval Jelly rust remover you can soak the 4 x 48 screw threads in it. That will etch the threads to reduce the diameter. You can also use a very fine wire wheel to reduce the thread size.
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Jim
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08-22-2020, 08:19 AM
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No, it's a new stainless screw. It's #4, I checked it against a 4-40 screw with a micrometer. It's just a 4-48 (fine thread), seller is FOS.
Being stainless, I doubt the NJ would work, and even it it did, neither the head nor shank will fit the opposite escutcheon and would have to be ground down. Not worth the effort.
As for all your test suggestions, my collection is pretty abysmal as they go here. I don't have any of those options available.
You mentioned a " newly manufactured replacement" screw. There is another seller that has what he says is just that, and he shows it installed in a set of RB diamond stocks that he says are on a "Pre-36." But he has not messaged me back yet on the exact thread. I'd hate to take a shot in the dark on that one and it be wrong too, but since there should only be two correct sizes and seeing the photo I probably will.
Last night I also found a seller with 3-48 stainless screws that would need to be cut to length. Gotta buy a lot of 3, but his price is only a couple of dollars more than I paid for the single screw..
So I'm not out of options yet, just frustrated with myself for choosing poorly.
And I'm a machinist, I should know better.
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08-22-2020, 09:39 AM
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I don't know which parts sources you've tried but here's a few to try if you haven't already:
Liberty Tree Collectors Phone:207-285-3111
139 Main Street, Corinth, ME 04427
Email: [email protected]
Liberty tree collectors has original, CCH lanyard rings (but without the retaining pin) for $25.
Samuel Simmons specializes in reproduced screws and old parts
221 English Hulse Rd
Pocahontas, AR 72455
E-mail: [email protected]
Sam is “ruffkat” on eBay & Gunbroker
GUN GARAGE on Ebay (for screws)
http://stores.ebay.com/Gun-Garage
George Dye
"Salt Lake Collectibles Co."
P.O. Box 57433, Salt Lake City, UT, 84157
phone 205.502.2026
‘Guns & Gun Parts’ (Recommended by S&W)
(413) 732-9938
983 Westfield St
West Springfield MA 01089-3813
EMAIL: [email protected]
Guns n Parts - New and Used Guns Bought and Sold. no parts list here.
"Aonepawninc" http://stores.ebay.com/aonepawninc
has a bunch of old S&W parts for sale. They are very customer oriented and have very reasonable prices. 1/10/16
Dave Bennett: Parts and guns from 1900 up to 1970's.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.22ammobox.com
Jack First: Large selection of Pre- and Post-WWII parts.
Phone: 605-343-9544
Reproduced firing pins for 22/32 Kit Gun and HFT
Gun Parts Corp: Successor to Numrich Arms; many gun parts.
226 Williams Lane, West Hurley, NY 12491
Phone: 845-679-2417
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: Gun Parts & Firearm Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts
Jim Horvath: Many parts for all S&W's (large and small) from 1860 up;
can reproduce parts.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Jeff Lee: Lee's Gun Parts (an extensive supply of gun parts, including S&W)
(Open to the public on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays).
3401 W. Pioneer, Suite 2, Irving, TX 75061
Phone: 972-790-0773
http://www.leesgunparts.com/
Jan Matlega: Parts for Pre-WWII S&W hand-ejectors.
Mail Address: 528 Eddy Glover
New Britain, CT 06053
Phone: 860-229-6872
Poppert's Gun Parts: http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/
P.O. Box 413
Glenside, PA 19038
Tel: 215-887-2391 Fax: 215-887-5816
Email: [email protected]
Charlie Pate: Provides screws (original & reproduction) for S&W Tip-ups and Top-breaks; author of books and articles on S&W guns.
Phone: 703-533-8057
e-Mail: [email protected]
Phil Saccacio: Phone: 540-456-6405
e-Mail: [email protected]
Dave Szilagy: Manufactures parts for older S&W's.
Mail Address: 3107 Electric, Lincoln Park, MI 48146
e-Mail: [email protected]
Mike Veilleux: Guns and Gun Parts
All Parts inc. for Pre- and Post-WWII S&W's.
Phone: 413-732-9938
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.gunsnparts.com
S&W Parts; antique and new
[email protected]
Ph: 352 394-7412
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Jim
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08-22-2020, 10:23 AM
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Your second suggestion, Samuel Simmons.
"ruffkat" does not come up as a valid seller.
But the email you posted [email protected] is very close to "hoxycarman870"
This is the listing I mentioned above for a "newly manufactured replacement screw."
I sent you a link via message.
If this is the same guy, then this is could be my go-to.
I sent him a message yesterday, but being on a Friday headed into the weekend I may not hear back for a day or two.
Eta: I just thought to check the location on the ebay listing. The seller is in Pocohantas, AR.
This is our guy.
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Last edited by Terry C; 08-22-2020 at 10:29 AM.
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08-22-2020, 10:35 AM
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Thanks for that list! I'm going to file those away in case I need them.
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08-22-2020, 11:42 AM
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Terry, if I had a replacement screw, I'd meet you in Bainbridge. However, try NC Ordnance. I'd call them first and verify the thread size. Actually, your option of buying 3 and cutting them to size sounds like a real deal to me.
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08-22-2020, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry C
Your second suggestion, Samuel Simmons.
"ruffkat" does not come up as a valid seller.
But the email you posted [email protected] is very close to "hoxycarman870"
This is the listing I mentioned above for a "newly manufactured replacement screw."
I sent you a link via message.
If this is the same guy, then this is could be my go-to.
I sent him a message yesterday, but being on a Friday headed into the weekend I may not hear back for a day or two.
Eta: I just thought to check the location on the ebay listing. The seller is in Pocohantas, AR.
This is our guy.
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Yes, that's Sam. He must have changed his ebay name. He's excellent and I've done business with him before. I've sent him parts and he's reproduced them perfectly!
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Jim
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08-28-2020, 03:33 PM
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Screw was once again a no-show.
No movement since 1:14 am Tuesday morning. Tracking just says "In transit, arriving late."
UPDATES:
2:00 am 8/29 - Never say die! Tracking just updated, it's finally moving again.
8:30 am 8/29 - Out for delivery. Better late than lost!
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08-29-2020, 04:53 PM
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We have screw.
Nickel plated like the originals, the work is top-notch. And he had it in the mail quick, it was the USPS that drug their feet getting it here.
I can highly recommend this guy.
I included a J-frame stock screw for comparison.
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Last edited by Terry C; 08-29-2020 at 05:00 PM.
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08-29-2020, 07:03 PM
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Terry,
Glad you got them!
The top screw is 3x48: pre war I frames and post war for both the I frames thru 1961, and J frames thru the late 1970s.
The larger and longer bottom screw is 5x44: J frame from early 1980s on.
It's slightly longer because that's also when the right side escutcheon was no longer counter bored.
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Jim
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