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09-29-2020, 03:52 PM
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Range report on "new" HD 38/44
Well I took the new acquisition out to the range today and put 200 rounds thru it. One of the first things I figured out is my old eyes do NOT like that narrow service front sight all that well. The weapon liked 148WC and 130 HST just fine. Did not like plated 125 HP at all. Like 158 RN and 158 SWC just fine also. Very comfortable to shoot.
Now that I know I like it I have to figure out what to do with it. I am leaning words removal of minor rust spots, hit them with some spot blue or even just oil and leave well enough alone. I may go with a full professional refinish (it doesn't really need polishing) but I am inclined towards originality at the moment.
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09-29-2020, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertrwalsh
Well I took the new acquisition out to the range today and put 200 rounds thru it. One of the first things I figured out is my old eyes do NOT like that narrow service front sight all that well. The weapon liked 148WC and 130 HST just fine. Did not like plated 125 HP at all. Like 158 RN and 158 SWC just fine also. Very comfortable to shoot.
Now that I know I like it I have to figure out what to do with it. I am leaning words removal of minor rust spots, hit them with some spot blue or even just oil and leave well enough alone. I may go with a full professional refinish (it doesn't really need polishing) but I am inclined towards originality at the moment.
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Originality is good.
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09-29-2020, 04:08 PM
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I went through the same with my .32-20 target. No real rust but probably 50% original finish. I cleaned it well and decided to leave it. Big fan of that old time blue look even if it is showing it's age.
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09-29-2020, 05:31 PM
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How were those fixed sights regulated ? I am going to shoot my 1954 HD this Friday for the first time. I'm hoping it shoots close to point of aim.
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09-29-2020, 06:12 PM
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I am glad you enjoyed shooting your latest "toy", they are a lot of fun to shoot but plain old revolver sights are tough to see with "getting older eyes". I have found the best way to go as far as finish and condition is to buy an original but well loved and used one to shoot and then buy another exactly the same gun that has spent its life in a sock drawer or on a shelf or in closet version that shines just like new to have, fondle, clean and wax and show off. That way you get the best of both worlds. The value of both guns will remain in value and the nice one may even appreciate in value over the years. This has worked well for me. Enjoy
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09-29-2020, 06:56 PM
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Just something to consider and a low cost solution for stopping rust. Take a page out of the Rust Bluing manual and BOIL the gun and it's parts. Heat to over 200 degrees in the ABSENCE of Oxygen converts red rust to Black Oxide. So Conservator's who want to stop any further rusting without effecting the patina will boil a handgun or rifle and then oil it well with a rust preventative water displacing penetrating oil (otherwise known as WD40). BTW boiling for 20-40 minutes is usually all it takes. Then get it wet with the WD40, leave it wet overnight, and then wipe it to a dry appearence. Note, WD40 is a poor lubricant so for lube use a good gun oil or grease.
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09-29-2020, 07:06 PM
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bigmtnman. it shot pretty close to the sights except for the 125s. They were light target loads I use for qualification shoots with a very old Colt DS. They shot noticably low at 10 yards.
scooter123. how do you boil something in water in the absence of oxygen. isn't there an awful lot of oxygen IN water???? Or do you boil it in something that isn't water?
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09-29-2020, 07:14 PM
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A gun can only be original once. As soon as you refinish it, it will look like it was refinished and the value will not justify what you had paid for the gun plus the refinishing.
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10-03-2020, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertrwalsh
bigmtnman. it shot pretty close to the sights except for the 125s. They were light target loads I use for qualification shoots with a very old Colt DS. They shot noticably low at 10 yards.
scooter123. how do you boil something in water in the absence of oxygen. isn't there an awful lot of oxygen IN water???? Or do you boil it in something that isn't water?
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I shot mine for the first time yesterday on a trip out to the prairie west of town. I only shot "full strength" 158 gr. semi wadcutters . It was dead on. If it had adjustable sights I would not have touched them at all -- HAPPY-HAPPY-HAPPY !!
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10-03-2020, 03:27 PM
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...another vote for leave it original...
Never really had a hankering for a HD until a few years ago. Got a good deal on a very clean 1952 vintage...my birth year...4" with the original stocks. And yes, while the sights are spot on for 158 grain loads they do have a little to be desired for older eyes...
Running the 358156 Lyman/Thompson bullet in non-Gas check solid, gas check solid and HP for MP molds. Just running them with 6.0 grains of Unique for now but one day hope to run some up to full potential .38-44 loads...
Bob
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10-03-2020, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertrwalsh
bigmtnman. .....
scooter123. how do you boil something in water in the absence of oxygen. isn't there an awful lot of oxygen IN water???? Or do you boil it in something that isn't water?
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What scooter123 describes is actually the process of Rust Bluing.
Red ferric oxide being converted to black ferric oxide.
One is 'ferric',, the other is actually 'ferris oxide' ,,I don't remember which is which,,I just do a lot of rust blue and restoration work.
The water at boiling temp does the conversion.
Can even be done with steam. Same thing happens.
The red rust will turn to black 'rust' (oxide). In doing so the coating is loosened and the blue/black color is left on the surface of the steel. That's your 'bluing'.
You remove the debris of the rust that was loosened by the boiling by 'carding it'
Carding can be done with very fine steel wood. Often it's done with very fine wire brushes driven at medium speed. The wheels have wire of dia only .005 or so. They remove the loosened crust of the rust and leave the color.
On some jobs you may even card with things such as burlap,,canvas or other cloth.
The idea is to completely remove that loosened coating and leave the color.
During Rust Bluing, another coating of a rusting soln would then be put onto the metal. LEft to rust and then boiled again, then carded. This lays down another coat of color to the metal.
When trying to remove some rust from a piece to save it and not add any more color, just arrest the rust and change the red rust that formed back to a more pleasant looking blue/black,,the one boiling and very careful carding are usually all that is done.
This is what Scooter123 is talking about here. Not a complete reblue job using a Rust blue process.
If that spot was left to rust and any pitting has formed in it. that pitting will still be there.
This simple boiling and carding will NOT remove or fill pitting. Only metal polishing will do that and then you are into much more than just conserving a spot in the orig finish.
It's a bit more than most would want or even need to get in to. But it is a way to handle some damage.
It won't turn rust bucket and pox mark pieces into a shiny NIB item.
But it's one of a few ways to conserve a finish and is used in restoration.
It's nothing new, but it doesn't necessarily make everything look 'as-new' either.
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10-03-2020, 05:36 PM
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SWCA Member Absent Comrade
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Typical target for me. A little to the left with one out in orbit. My 1960 HD with 158 lead loaded to 850 FPS.
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10-04-2020, 11:23 AM
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My only HD, a 4" from c.1954.
While I know nothing of it's background (GB purchase), by the looks of the original Magnas that came on it, with the RH panel having been beat nearly to kindling, it had to've been a working gun at some point in it's life.
Finish might rate 50%, being optimistic.
Surprisingly, there's not many .38 rounds it will not shoot accurately.
Have particularly enjoyed loading/duplicating the original old 'real' .38-44 rounds, using a hardcast 158 gr LSWC and a healthy dose of 2400.
It shoots those dead-on at 25 yards.
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10-04-2020, 11:39 AM
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OldCorp-That might be a fun one to letter. My 1954 gun serial numbered S109208 was in a shipment to the Kansas Highway Patrol.
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10-05-2020, 07:35 PM
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Restoring to original condition is a misnomer. Any restorative process that includes refinishing will leave the gun with 0% original finish, which is as far as one can get from originality.
Mike Priwer
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