Does anyone have any information they would like to share on this model. I am trying to learn about the Model 27-1.
I can find out about all the other dashes but not much on the dash1.
This is my first post.
Thanks in advance!
Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! I am not an expert and someone with more expertise will come along shortly. Do you have pictures you can post. We can tell you a lot more with those. You have a very valuable .357 because they were only made for one year. Yours is a 3-1/2" version which is more desirable in today's market. If it is nickel, cha ching! One thing that will knock down value is condition. That's why pictures are so important. Also, if you have the box and accessories, you add significantly to the value.
Maybe Leatherhead23 can comment. He seems to have cornered the market on them.
It's easy (there are videos in a sticky post if you need them). You can attach up to 5 pictures per post. Just make sure they are sized at or less than 1920x1080 pixels. Then, scroll down below the text box and click Go Advanced. When the new editor opens look for the paper clip icon on the top row and click that. Browse to and select 5 pictures one at a time, then upload and they'll be attached to your post.
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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629
Last edited by Wiregrassguy; 11-27-2020 at 08:42 AM.
Beautiful! Your gun was likely shipped late in 1961 or early 1962. Remove the grips and see if the serial number is stamped on the inside of the right panel. Those should be original grips matched to the gun. According to handejector (site owner and professional expert), the 3.5" models were not as desirable back then and were often shunned in trades through the sixties. Now, however, they are highly sought after and garner a premium at sale as a result. Are you considering parting with your gun? If so, you should have a robust market in our classifieds forum.
Does anyone have any information they would like to share on this model. I am trying to learn about the Model 27-1.
I can find out about all the other dashes but not much on the dash1.
This is my first post.
Thanks in advance!
Ooooooh nice gun you have, mgp629! Guy has warmed up the stage for some more info that can be shared on my favorite model S&W...
Like Guy mentioned, the -1 variant was made for one year...1960. There was quite a bit of concern with the engineering change for this variant from users but that didn't start until they got them in hand. The majority of the 27-1's were shipped in 1962 with a smaller number shipped in 1963. After the users began to shoot their newly updated model 27 they experienced problems while shooting....the extractor rod would easily back out of the cylinder for some reason. Thats when S&W realized their engineering update of Left Hand threads on the extractor rod may not have been a good idea after all...while shooting, the cylinder turns the same direction it did when they used Right Hand threads in previous variants.
All of the -1 N frame variants had this engineering change at the same time....if you think 27-1's are hard to come by, try finding a 29-1 or even more scarce.....a 28-1!! If I remember correctly, a nickel finished version of them is harder than the blued finish. Only 10% of any model was done in Nickel.
If you look on the back of the cylinder you should find an 'L' stamped into it near the rim.
A very nice example you have, looks like. Do those stocks have the serial number stamped into them? Do they match the serial number of the gun? Are there any other marking on the left side of the grip frame under the stocks?
I hope all this helps. Hope you don't mind me sharing my collection of 27-1's. Took some hard hunting to put this group together. Every barrel length blued...3.5" 5" 6" 6.5" 8 3/8"....
And one in Nickel....only one I've seen in 3.5"
Saw a 8 3/8" a couple years ago and wasn't lucky enough to add it to my stable. The gentleman on GB wasn't easy to deal with. No idea if he stil has it or if it sold.
Last edited by Leatherhead23; 11-27-2020 at 09:48 AM.
I appreciate the opportunity to share my pics and vomit the otherwise useless information on this model living in my head....
Thanks for the heads up on our new members question, Guy. I may have to dig around in the safe today now...you've awoken my interest a bit. Its been a while!
Last edited by Leatherhead23; 11-27-2020 at 09:46 AM.
I've got a "pre 27" meaning made before Model numbers in 1958 (gun shipped 10-16-52) and I have 2 others, a 3-1/2" blue model 27-2 (shipped 4-5-77), and a 6" nickel shipped 5-8-80.
All three of mine are Lettered (Factory Letter of Authentication) and you may find the copy of one Letter attached interesting in that it explains the 1960 Engineering change that resulted in the dash 1, and the 1962 change to the cylinder stop that resulted in the dash 2 designation.
With your example, the butt of the stocks show some dings and dents that don't seem to be in harmony with pristine condition of the guns finish and appearance. Do you mind telling us how you came by the gun? We love back stories almost as much as we love pictures.
Very nice gun you have. Do you shoot it?
Again, welcome to the best Forum for anything Smith & Wesson related.
If anyone has an opinion of the value of this please let me know. We do know the entire story of it. It was a law enforcement sidearm that has seen some action and is documented with newspaper articles.
Thanks again!
mgp629...Does the extractor rod have the relieved area behind the knurled tip? From the photo from where it is shown it looks like it does not. If this is the case the Model 27 has an extractor rod with an old style, right-hand thread, but it may be the photo just doesn't show the detail.
Also have very uncommon S&W .32 Auto Ser # 448 that I understand to be one of 957 made. It is 97-98%. It has no model number but it very nice. If you know anything about it let me know.
Welcome to the forum. There will be some real S&W experts along soon to answer your questions. You certainly came to the right spot.
Since this thread is full of the experts and I am certainly not among them if I did list it for sale ( in the correct forum this time) what is a fair selling price.
Not sure if it will be for sale because it is pretty and of course knowing it history.
Thanks for the guidance.
Thanks for the photo of the extractor rod. It is the old style with a right-hand thread. Unusual because all of the other 27-1s I have seen have the improved extractor rod with a left-hand thread.
Bill, it is possible that the original extractor rod was replaced with a later one. The gutter around the knurling was only there for a short time until the - 2 version came out, IIRC. I guess the only way to confirm it is to have the OP loosen the rod to see which way it turns.
Guy...the relieved area behind the knurled tip started in 1962 and was still present through the early 80s for K and N-frame revolvers. The latest example I could look at dates to 1982.
I am confident the extractor rod and stem on the 27-1 being discussed has a right-hand thread. Interestingly, this is the way all but two Model 29-1s are configured and they also have a 3-screw frame.
The -1 engineering change in most any of the original 2-digit Model numbered guns (M14, M15, M19, etc.) are scarce due to the very short life span of the -1 engineering change.
When I was accumulating my 3 1/2" collection (way back when), I was only able to find one, it's in this picture somewhere...
Bill, didn't S&W also stamp an L on the face of the cylinder to show the change? Did they do that as long as the gutter? I suppose missing the gutter and L on the cylinder is pretty definitive without actually unscrewing the extractor rod. But you have a lot more knowledge and experience with these peculiarities than I do. So, I bow to your opinion.
The -1 engineering change in most any of the original 2-digit Model numbered guns (M14, M15, M19, etc.) are scarce due to the very short life span of the -1 engineering change.
This is true. I guess Providence just smiled on me. When I was building my K-38 collection and started looking for a Model 14-1, I found an ANIB example at a reasonable price within a couple days of searching. That was a very pleasant surprise and I jumped on it immediately.
I just looked and I don't have a picture of it that I could find. Sorry. One of these days I'll dig it out of the safe and post a picture.
The Model 27-1 that is the subject of this thread is a fine revolver. And odd, given that it is marked as a -1 and yet does not have the left hand threads on the extractor rod. It will be interesting to find out when it shipped.
Guy...I have only seen the L stamped on the rear surface of the cylinder on a very few Model 29-2s shipped in early 1963. An L many have been stamped on the cylinder of other models, but I have not studied them. If a member has an early Model 27-2 or 19-2 maybe they will let us know. The serial number range for the N-frames would be in the S228000 to S231000.
The -1 engineering change in most any of the original 2-digit Model numbered guns (M14, M15, M19, etc.) are scarce due to the very short life span of the -1 engineering change.
When I was accumulating my 3 1/2" collection (way back when), I was only able to find one, it's in this picture somewhere...
Bill, didn't S&W also stamp an L on the face of the cylinder to show the change? Did they do that as long as the gutter? I suppose missing the gutter and L on the cylinder is pretty definitive without actually unscrewing the extractor rod. But you have a lot more knowledge and experience with these peculiarities than I do. So, I bow to your opinion.
I’m a total novice at this so pardon my lack of knowledge but is this what you are talking about?
This is true. I guess Providence just smiled on me. When I was building my K-38 collection and started looking for a Model 14-1, I found an ANIB example at a reasonable price within a couple days of searching. That was a very pleasant surprise and I jumped on it immediately.
I just looked and I don't have a picture of it that I could find. Sorry. One of these days I'll dig it out of the safe and post a picture.
The Model 27-1 that is the subject of this thread is a fine revolver. And odd, given that it is marked as a -1 and yet does not have the left hand threads on the extractor rod. It will be interesting to find out when it shipped.
Based on the L on the cylinder, the extractor rod and stem should be a left-hand thread. That goes against the configuration of the extractor rod without the relieved area behind the knurled tip, but with S&W, never say never.
The only way to find out the shipping date and shipping destination is to obtain a factory letter from Dr. Roy Jinks. The cost is $100 and the waiting time is eight to twelve weeks. You can go to: theswca.org to find the request form. When you access the site, click on factory letter and the pdf file will come up.
Yes. S&W stamped an L on the face of the cylinder to show the extractor rod was left hand thread. With the dichotomy between the L and the lack of gutter on the extractor rod, a confirmation would be for you to unloosen the rod to verify the thread direction is left-handed. I do this with a wooden clothespin clamped on the knurled end in the jaws of the clothespin. Then, I clamp the jaws of the clothespin with pliers or channel locks and rotate the extractor rod in the right direction (left to tight, right to loose). This will be easier if you first remove the yoke and cylinder from the frame.
Model 27-1 serial S218978 was shipped in April 1962. Model 27-1 serial S219283 was shipped in April 1962. It is likely, but not assured, your gun serial number S218989 shipped in April 1962.
The only way to find out the shipping date and shipping destination is to obtain a factory letter from Dr. Roy Jinks. The cost is $100 and the waiting time is eight to twelve weeks. You can go to: theswca.org to find the request form. When you access the site, click on factory letter and the pdf file will come up.
This is for everyone who was interested in where this 27-1 got its slight wear. It had some on duty holster time until retirement then it ended up in the safe and the stories were retold and relived until the end. Now it can be viewed in the for sale section.
Enjoy!
Nice 27! I do believe your pics from posts 7, 18, 22, and 43 are more descriptive and would help your For Sale ad quite a bit. Good close-up shots can help confirm model designation, finish condition, areas of wear, special features (target hammer, trigger), grip originality, etc. Given the family history it seems a shame to part with it. Thanks for sharing!
Model 27 3 1/2 inch
Linear Mode
