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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 01-09-2021, 02:41 PM
Skunked Skunked is offline
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S&W Model 10 Pre-War Reassembly question S&W Model 10 Pre-War Reassembly question S&W Model 10 Pre-War Reassembly question S&W Model 10 Pre-War Reassembly question S&W Model 10 Pre-War Reassembly question  
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Default S&W Model 10 Pre-War Reassembly question

I've tried as best I can to solve two questions that videos and Numrich diagrams can't help me with. As this is an older Model 10, much of what I can find are for later models that aren't quite the same.

This is a S.&W. 38 Special CTG nickel plated 4" bbl that was carried by my wife's paternal grandfather when he was a Constable in Tallahassee before WWII (serial number 605655). I am helping my father in law who had this stuck in the back of a closet since the 1960s. It looked like it was almost never cleaned and typical of a dirty closet find. As I like to recondition abused antique guns and Penn reels, he asked me do see what I could do.

Here are the two things I need help with, pictures are below.

1. When I took out the screw on the trigger guard, I was surprised when what I know know is the cylinder stop sprind and cylinder stop stud came out. Stupidly, I was too "ooohhh what is this" to do the responsible thing and remember how they came out. In the pic I have how I think they need to come back. Is this correct?

2. I cannot find out - and I have been warned this is tricky - how to unscrew the Extractor rod collar off so I can get the yoke off so I can clean the extractor rod, spring etc.

Thank you for all your help. He has a few other S&W in need of some TLC too.



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Last edited by Skunked; 01-09-2021 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 01-09-2021, 03:00 PM
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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! The cylinder stop plunger and spring are oriented correctly in your picture. The extractor rod is a right hand thread. To remove it, put 3 empty casings into the chambers spaced around the cylinder to brace the extractor star. Then clamp a wooden clothespin on the extractor knurled end and clamp on the clothespin with some pliers...or pad your pliers with leather. Then, rotate to the left (lefty loosey) to unscrew the extractor rod. There are springs and other things in there. So, take pictures as they come out so you can put them back in proper orientation. Just pull the extractor rod out of the yoke arm and barrel, then clean away. When you put it back together, tighten the extractor rod hand tight. Don't cinch it down with anything unless it comes loose after shooting and then only lightly.


If you are going to need help with other S&W revolvers, I recommend purchasing The S&W Revolver-A Shop Manual, by Jerry Kuhnhausen.
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Old 01-09-2021, 03:12 PM
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Guy gave you good answers. Follow his advice to the letter and you will be fine.

I just want to add a couple points that might help your understanding.

1. This revolver is not in any sense a "Model 10." It is almost 30 years too old for that designation. It can be considered an ancestor to the Model 10, but in many ways it is quite different.

2. When the Model 10 was first shipped in 1958, one thing it retained from its ancestors was the right hand threads on the extractor rod. This was changed to left hand threads in 1961. So, any instructions you find for the Model 10 might say the threads are left hand. Ignore that and use the info provided by Wiregrassguy.
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Old 01-09-2021, 04:39 PM
Skunked Skunked is offline
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Thanks to both of you. I was especially concerned that it would unscrew "normally" and not the opposite.
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Old 01-10-2021, 04:12 AM
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Maybe next time just take the grips off and spray the insides liberally with brake cleaner and follow up with Rem Oil.
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Old 01-10-2021, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velle View Post
Maybe next time just take the grips off and spray the insides liberally with brake cleaner and follow up with Rem Oil.
That doesnít work. I bought a LNIB 15-2 last year. Gun was pristine, but the action was sluggish. I took the grips off and cocked the hammer, then blasted into the frame with brake cleaner followed by compressed air. No improvement. I carefully took the side plate off and it was nasty in there. Looks like the original owner sprayed something in there that gooped up over the decades. The brake cleaner did nothing to remove it. A full tear down and cleaning and itís back to the way it should be. At the very least, the plate should be removed before a brake cleaner flush.

I have a pre Model 10 made in 1946. Same issues as the OP had with the extractor rod. I just took the plate off and it wasnít bad in there. Hosed it down with brake cleaner and a light oil and plate went back on.
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