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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 02-25-2021, 04:25 AM
hvymech hvymech is offline
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Default I found a S&W mod.12-2

I found a S&W model 12-2 with a 2 inch barrel, blue finish, in ex. shape except the cylinder needs to be replaced. Will I have to find another model 12-2 2inch cylinder or will another model cylinder work? TIA hvymech
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Old 02-25-2021, 07:40 AM
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I think someone said on here that the model 12 cylinder is longer compared to a 10, 14 or 15. If it is it might be the same length as a 13 or 19 but I would be careful to not shoot magnums in that frame
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Old 02-25-2021, 09:40 AM
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Okay, what happened to the cylinder?
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Old 02-25-2021, 11:21 PM
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I cannot claim great authority , but I would be inclined to think that a K frame .38 sp cylinder is a K frame .38 sp cylinder.
If the cylinder were longer , wouldn't the frame be different?

And yeah - what happened to the cylinder?
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Old 02-25-2021, 11:29 PM
hvymech hvymech is offline
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Default S&W model 12-2

Found the revolver in a pawn shop, cyl looks like it has been dropped on the side walk. Rest of the gun looks ok.
TIA hvymech
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  #6  
Old 02-25-2021, 11:42 PM
ken158 ken158 is offline
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So, how much $ is this model 12? Did you check for the known model 12 frame crack? If the gun has been dropped bad enough to need a cylinder, then it is very possible especially on an alloy frame that other issues exist although maybe not obvious... Bent yoke, timing, etc. I believe you could replace the cylinder with a model 10 cylinder. Need to check where the gas ring is and if your 12 has a long style cylinder. It will be a treasure hunt for parts and could get expensive.
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Old 02-26-2021, 12:18 AM
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Cylinders are not drop in parts. S&W did not expect the cylinders in revolvers from the same production run to interchange. During assembly first the yoke tube length was adjusted to hold a cylinder against the recoil shield, then, to adjust flash gap, the rear of the barrel was lathe cut before it was torqued in tight, then ejector star teeth were filed for correct carry up or timing. Stretching the yoke tube or shortening it for a different cylinder and shortening the rear of the barrel to open up a tight gap are quick but if the flash gap is too large having the barrel lathe turned again is expensive. It's been posted here that reusing the old ejector star often gets the timing right but the star's alignment pins have to be redrilled. Selecting a cylinder with a length that is nominally correct for your model and vintage only gets you ready for your trip to the gunsmith. I'd talk to him before even buying one.

It is possible to get lucky and have a replacement cylinder drop right in but I've never been that lucky. Heck, I haven't even found the winning lotto ticket in the gutter yet.
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Old 02-26-2021, 01:54 AM
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The non recessed Model 12 cylinder is longer at the front than a model 10 cylinder,
As a result the Model 12 barrel forcing cone is cut shorter to mate to the longer cylinder.

(The only thing close is a model 19 or 13 cylinder).
Mounting a Magnum cylinder to a model 12 frame is a very bad idea

Last edited by Engine49guy; 02-26-2021 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:13 PM
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Well , there you have it. Glad I expressed the disclaimer.
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:22 PM
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Well, FWIW, a cylinder complete with ejector star CAN be a drop in.
My model15-5 had one bulged cylinder and one of the generous folks here sent me one from a slightly older model 15 and it installed and worked perfect without any special work or hand fitting.

And when it comes to what most people call luck, believe me when I say, I ain't got it.
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