Hello,

1905 3rd change yoke. Not sure if it is supposed to look like the attached pick. Metal wear is visible. Should the end of the yolk that slides into the frame be a full circle!

Looks fine to me... what are your concerns? Does it mesh well with the frame when closed? Does the cylinder turn free on the yoke?

An addition to my post now that I can see the picture, yep - your yoke button is toast.

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S&W factory revolver armorer

It does not mesh well. Does not allow center pin to seat and is very hard to open and work the yolk.

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Whats on it grease? Or metal shavings? Needs to be cleaned up. I lube the cylinder stud and yoke with moly. Plus the star and locking pin. The cylinder closes and opens more freely.

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Plant garlic in the fall

Unless they are broken all yolks are a full circle.

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Yes it should have a full circle or shoulder. That does not look good, in fact it looks like it needs replaced to me, but I am not a gunsmith!

Ed

Ok, so the end of the yoke that fits with the yoke screw should be a full circle on the end and not a half circle?

That is what I thought. It does not look proper. Thanks Ed.

Yes! The screw that retains the yoke in place was probably the wrong screw from one on of the other sideplate screw locations and the lip of the circle was mangled. That correct screw is fitted to that lip and it was probably installed in the wrong hole of the sideplate where it worked fine.

But with the proper screw installed and the burrs cleaned up, it still may work. If not, a little Tig welding to restore the lip (the full circle) will easily repair it for good however.

You need a gunsmith if this work is beyond your skills.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

That makes sense to me although I could not tell the difference in any length of the three side plate screws of the same size.
Anyone know of a Smith and Wesson armorer in Maine or New England?

I would replace it. Half the rim is missing and the damage is quite severe. No idea how that much damage could have happened even with the wrong screw. Looks almost like someone drove or pulled out the yoke without removing the screw.

gunpartscorp.com has a replacement that would work.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

If you decide you need to replace the yoke, I've got a pile of used K frame ones. Be aware the exterior fit probably won't be perfect, as S&W polished the parts as a unit.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

It's not the length, it's the diameter of the tip that fits against the lip to retain and control yoke end play.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Thanks everyone for your replies.

I'd try and save the orig just to keep the gun that way. The fit and finish would be no issue then.

Tig or Laser welding the end and then refitting is one option. Lots of very good welders around. The profiling/refitting would be done by hand, The spud being shorter than the cylindr shaft doesn't lend itself well to lathe turning.
(That damaged piece is actually a separate part press fit into the 'yoke'. But removing it to work on it and then replacing it or another repair piece would leave you with the looks of a repair on the front outside surface of the yoke.)

Another way is removing just the damaged end. Then making a replacement (best done on a lathe) and splicing it back into the orig.
The splice connection can be a simple stud on the new piece and a hole in the cut off portion.
A close fit of the two components and assembled with Red Locktite/Bearing&Shaft assembly Locktite would do it.
No heat in soldering to worry about ruining any bluing. Threading together could be done but it's little overkill in this instance I think.

If you can source a damaged or otherwise inexpensive yoke that the piece you need can be cut from then all you would need to do is cut it off to length and turn the splice-together- stud on it. Saves making the entire part.

Just some thoughts.

I would buy one from Muley Gill.