So I got my first revolver, a Victory .38 in great shape. Bought it from someone who said it was his Dad’s Navy service revolver during the war. Who knows?

I carefully took it apart to check for any rust and to lubricate it. When I reassembled the gun I could not get the cylinder to swing back out. It would go part of the way and then bind. I didn’t want to force anything. I narrowed the issue to being the tightness of the front side plate screw. When I barely tighten it, everything works normally, but when I snug up the screw everything binds up. I imagine the screw is binding on the crane or some such. Just looking for guidance. All the screws went back to their holes of origin, but maybe it was put back together wrong the last time. Any help would be appreciated.

Look at the tip of the front side plate screw. It may have a small flat spot on it from bearing against the crane. Make sure the cyl is fully closed and the crane held fully back when you install the screw. Use a small amount of grease on the tip and just snug it up. Sometimes you just can’t get away with fully tightening the screw. You also might try switching it with the rear screw. You should see the wear area on the tip of the correct screw.

The screw that holds the yoke (crane) in place is fitted and not interchangeable with the other domeheaded screw. Try switching the two screws.

Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

Welcome to the Forum.

Yes, try swapping the screws around.

And by the way, model numbers weren't assigned by S&W until 1957 and the lock work changed in 1948. The Victory model is NOT a Model 10.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Hey, all K frame fixed sight .38 spls are Model 10s. Some just say so and some don’t

I pulled all the screws and found one that was a tiny bit shorter than the others. I put that one in front. I still can’t hardly tighten the screw without binding the yoke. Should I file a little off the bottom to reduce the engagement?

Also, all three screws have a section of unthreaded metal at the end and I have seen side plate screws that are shorter without that unthreaded portion. I ordered one of those screws from Numrich.


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Did the cylinder revolve before you started messing with it? If so, you don’t need a new screw.

Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

Don’t file off the unthreaded tip. The unthreaded section is what retains the crane. Put the screw with the long tip back in the front hole, snug it to the point that the cyl will fully open and forget about it. It doesn’t have to be super tight to work. Most owners tend to overtighten all sideplate screws. Good and snug is good enough. They’re not going to come out and your side plate isn’t going to fall off. I’m assuming you have your side plate installed correctly with the hammer block in place and it fits fully flush before you install the screws?

Yes. The side plate is fully flush. When I tighten the front screw, I have to back it off about 1/4 turn from snug for the cylinder to swing out smoothly. I guess I’ll just leave it. I just don’t want to come back from the range one day and find the screw as vibrated loose.

One other thing to consider. Make sure there is nothing in the hole for the crane to prevent it from fully seating. It should be fully flush with the front of the frame. Side plate screws don’t vibrate loose. If it worries you to death you might try to figure out exactly where the tip is bearing against the crane and lightly stone the side of the tip. But I suggest you leave it alone, enjoy your nearly eighty year old revolver and DON’T remove the side plate and cyl assembly for routine cleaning.

I think I’ll just leave it. It’s not like it’s a carry gun. Thanks everyone.


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If vibrating loose is a concern, use nail polish, shellac or thread sealant to lock it in place. You should not need to file it.

Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

I would like to know if that malfunction existed prior to disassembly.

It did not.


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Were the screws tight when you first disassembled it? I doubt that the front one was tight. If it was tight and the cyl opened freely, something has changed. You either put a different screw in the front hole, or there was gunk under the sideplate which held it up a few thousandths, and when you removed that gunk, the screw is now going further in.
It is very easy to fit a sideplate screw. If you need to do so, we can talk you through it.

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

So, you need to switch the screws around until you find the correct front screw. They are NOT interchangeable. Buying new screws is a waste of money.

Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

My guess is that the front screw was a bit less than fully tight before disassembly and you didn’t notice it because it might have taken a bit of effort to remove because of old dried grease. You are obsessing over nothing. One tip that helps when removing screws is to note the orientation of the slot before removal. Had you done so you might have found that the gun had been working just fine for many years with the front screw 1/4 turn from fully tight.

I agree and have had a similar experience. And the switching of the screws
solved the problem.

terry

Thank you everyone!

I switch around the screws and found that one allowed me to get it almost snug without binding up the crane. Now it’s nice and lubricated and ready to be shot.




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Is there a guide on this procedure, for future reference?

Sure.
Rip a flap off of a cardboard box. Draw a side plate on the cardboard. Take a screwdriver and punch a hole in the cardboard “side plate”in the location of the individual side plate screws. Put each screw into the proper hole in the cardboard as you remove them.

Time honored procedure.
Hard to screw up.
Ha ha.

It appears that I misinterpreted the question in #20.
But , given the subject matter that opened this thread , it was still a good time to dust off the old mock side plate trick.