I just got a K-22 post war 3rd model pre-Model 17 revolver that has multiple firing pin strikes on the cylinder. The cylinder seems to lock up tight and has no play. Does anyone know why this is happening, and what can be done to fix it? Is replacing the cylinder an option, once it's repaired? Thanks!

Attached Images

K22 Strikes (Custom).jpg (58.6 KB, 119 views)

Do the serial numbers and assembly numbers match?

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

I would guess that the action is gummed up with old lubricants, and this is causing the cylinder stop to malfunction. Dry firing of S&W rimfire revolvers is not recommended.

A good internal cleaning with your favorite solvent, and re-lubrication with some light oil may take care of the issue and restore the proper function of the cylinder stop. (check the integrity of the cyl. stop spring and the other internal parts)
The cylinder assembly may also need a disassembly and thorough cleaning.

When checking the action, be sure to take care not to dry fire the gun under mainspring tension with the sideplate off.

You might also have a look at the firing pin to see if it is undamaged.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

From rapid dry firing probably, seems common on the 22s.


If the cases fit and extract freely there really is nothing to fix unless the action is loose, just no dry firing.

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When words fail, music speaks.

Yes, the serial numbers all match. And It does need a thorough cleaning, which I'll do this weekend. Thanks for all the great information, and I'll definitely not be doing any dry-firing!

There is a recent thread with more information about a similar question:

K-22 firing pin marks between chambers

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Thanks for the link to the recent post....VERY helpful!

The charge hole at approximately 3:30 in your image- which looks as though the firing pin was snagged in the recess as rotation was imposed , is particularly nasty.
Someone did not treat that otherwise fine old teller very well.

Thanks! It's about to get some TLC now!

That other thread says it all.

But based on the amount of crud seen in the case head recesses, check in particulary for crud in the cyl notches that keep the cyl stop bolt from seating all the way into the cyl notches. Therefore the cyl stop bolt can slip in and right back out of the notch due to the centrifugal force of the cyl rotation. When that happens and the gun doesn't fire because the cyl chambers are misaligned with the firing pin and barrel, a less than knowledgeable shooter will continue to pull the trigger in hopes of getting the gun to fire. But all they do is continue to do damage by denting the cyl because the firing pin is not landing on the case rim.

Not worth the expense of replacing cyl and not needed. S&W won't work on a gun that old either. What you might have to do is remove the dings in the edges of the case head recesses if the cartridges will not go all the way into the chambers.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

I see exactly what you mean. Thank you.

If the metal pushed down into the case head recess makes full seating of cartridges a problem the burr it has created will need to be removed. It could be done with a flat bottom mill or with a diamond coated file set. Either way work carefully.

Looking at the blue loss and wear on the cylinder I'd imagine the gun is now a shooter-grade revolver to take out to the range, not a safe queen. Enjoy the smell of burning gunpowder with it!

Yes, Several of the head recesses look to be compromised. I don't have a mill. My plan is to do a thorough cleaning then check to see if the cartridges will fully seat. If they don't, then I'll have to get it to a gunsmith. Thanks very much for the outstanding advice!

It's usually better to "push" metal back into place rather than remove it, but in this case a little reaming would not hurt.


I matched an old drill bit to the recess on an old Iver Johnson sealed 8 that someone had used a pocket knife to remove the spent cases. I broke the drill bit off flat, cleaned it up with a grinder then used it (by hand) to ream the edges so the cases fit, worked fine.

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When words fail, music speaks.

The recess diameter is not a critical dimension. With a small fine flat tip polishing bit in a Dremel tool, one can easily clean up the burrs. This is one of the FEW PROPER uses of a Dremel tool on guns. And doesn't even need much skill for this job!

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Jim
S&WCA #819

If it seems to be functioning correctly it's possible that the malfunction that caused it has been repaired.