Hi all,

I've got a Model 1896 Hand Ejector and everything is working perfectly except the hand isn't under the spring tension that it needs to function properly. Since everything seems to be under a bunch of tension under there, how do I go about getting the hand back in the proper place and under tension so that it cycles the cylinder? I know there's a little pin next to the pin that it pivots on, but I can't get any of the other parts out to see what it needs to connect to for proper function. I've attached a photo showing the hand out of place. Thanks!

Attached Images

PXL_20230318_230107878.jpg (143.3 KB, 103 views)

__________________
High Caliber History

I believe you are missing a part.

__________________
John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

A set of exploded views of the early hand ejectors would be nice to have around.

You need to compress the small spring that is pinned to the front strap. You should then be able to lift out the trigger. IIRC, there is a spring loaded lever inside of the trigger than provides tension to the hand.

I have used a small C clamp to compress that spring. I have also used a pair of lock grip pliers, with a pad of leather between the plier's jaw and the front strap.

__________________
John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

I suppose small C clamps or padded vice grips or Chicoine's "spreader-type pliers" are all well and good, but Mike Priwer's "special tool" will prove to be vastly superior. It's a piece of wood dowel (1/4" or so in diameter) "cut to suit and beat to fit" between the compressed trigger spring and the opposing interior of the frame.

It is installed thus: Remove the main/hammer spring. (May wish to remove the hammer while you're at it, to provide some room to work.) Pull the trigger to the rear, thereby compressing the trigger spring, and hold it. Insert the "special tool" to hold the trigger spring compressed---all the way compressed. Release and move the trigger forward. You may now get on with whatever it is you wish to accomplish---including the complete disassembly of the remaining bits and pieces if it strikes your fancy.

Cop-out clause: In the somewhat likely event I may have omitted something (or have something out of order) in these instructions, it will immediately become obvious; so you can fix it and get on with the task at hand.

Ralph Tremaine

As an aside, the trigger/hand/trigger lever/rebound lever are to be removed/installed as an assembly---or else!!

As another aside, ANYBODY who does not have Chicoine's Antique Firearms-Assembly/Disassembly book, and chooses to fool with these things is asking for trouble-------and trouble will be forthcoming!! I know these things---having been there and gotten in trouble-----once----just once---which was enough for a lifetime----and REALLY irritating!!

Here is a picture of one of my 1896 internals and a schematic taken from David Chicoine's book Antique Firearms Assembly/Disassembly.

Unfortunately, there is no easy way to access the hand spring without taking out the trigger.

Attached Images

	P1010005.jpg (68.7 KB, 128 views)
	1896 Schematic.jpg (73.0 KB, 128 views)
	P1010010.jpg (48.7 KB, 126 views)

__________________
Gary
SWCA 2515

Thanks for the drawing while I have no model of 1896 that method of trigger rebound was used for a while before the slide came along and I have a couple early ones that use it/

You will find the "couple of early ones" are "woolly boogers" compared to those that follow!!

Ralph Tremaine

Thanks to all who offered descriptions and diagrams! With a lot of patience, a heap of elbow grease, and a tanker ship full of swear words, I got it all back together and it functions exactly as it did in July 1901!

__________________
High Caliber History

Explain please. Why or what makes them "woolly boogers" I have a few very early I frame 32s. Never dissembled because they all work. I guess I should go ahead and get an education.

It they ain't broke, don't try and fix 'em! Remove the side plate, flush out the innerds, lube and then button 'em back up.

__________________
John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Thanks for the tip, Ralph...Here's another one: Anyone without one of those Kindle thingies is asking to spend a lot of money...I just looked it up on Amazon, and the cost for a paperback version (my choice) is about 10 times the cost of the electronic download...It looks like I may have to finally step out of the 19th Century and modernize a bit......Ben

__________________
Cogito, ergo BOOM!...

There are two 32 I frame models that do not have the rebound slide. The topic gun, the 32 First Model has three areas that are tough to work on and one needs to know how to reassemble. I loaded the schematic with three areas that cause the most trouble. Taking closeup pictures before disassembly will help.

1. The trigger spring needs to be compressed and cannot be done with your fingers, so padded pliers of tools as noted above are needed for both disassembly and reassembly.

2. The trigger lever and rebound lever use the same stud. One needs to know where they were before disassembly in order to get them back into place when reassembling.

3. The small flat spring that keeps tension on the hand is hidden inside the trigger, so needs to be located, opened before the hand is inserted. One needs to study the hand/trigger before taking that part out.

The Model 1903, No Change has a couple of important spots to note and determine how and where the interact with other parts before disassembly.

1. The interaction of the hand and trigger need to be studied before disassembly, along with how the trigger spring interacts with the trigger spring.

2. One will find two major springs on this model, the mainspring for the hammer and the trigger spring, which is a long twisty spring that actuates the trigger in a very tough spot to see. Make sure you understand where the spring needs to be set on both ends before disassembly.

Attached Images

	1896 Schematic1.jpg (76.3 KB, 77 views)
	Early 1903a.jpg (71.5 KB, 78 views)
	Early 1903b.jpg (67.2 KB, 81 views)

__________________
Gary
SWCA 2515

Take it from me: if you don't *NEED* to take it completely apart, then don't.

__________________
High Caliber History

I'm so glad Gary stepped in with a PHD version-----illustrated yet!!

About all you'd gotten from me would have been a translation of "woolly booger".

I had only two K frame versions of these things (1902 versions)---unless you subscribe to the M.P. interpretation, in which case I had one 1902 version and one pre-5 screw-4 screw 1905 version. The M.P. interpretation is entirely sound, just a topic of some dispute which I understand; but don't get involved with. Suffice it to say when I popped the sideplate off one of them for the first time, it got my FULL attention---and prompted a call for help.

Ralph Tremaine

Gary, Thank you very much.

Is there a spot where these diagrams are available?

I spent about 6 years in from my mid 20s to early 30s doing photo copier repair. In those days they were far more mechanically controlled than now.

I am pretty brave but previous warnings have kept me from taking any of them apart when they are functioning just fine

I have taken stuff apart in the past and cursed myself for doing so.


Want a fun project replace the door latch cable on a later 90s to early 2000 Ford truck. It is connected the the latch, latch handle, door key mechanism, the lock pull knob and the electric solenoid that operates the locks. The solenoid needs partially removed and is held by a special Ford rivet. All of this well hidden and difficult to access between sheet metal with openings my hands hardly fit in.

Never again, I paid a guy $150 to do the second door.

It makes changing out the window mechanisms in my Lincolns look simple

steelslayer... I can relate to your experiences on two counts.

Ford door lock mechanism: I too, took mine apart and was unable to reassemble it. I put it back together partially and lived with it until a year later I attempted again and was able to reassemble by bending one of the long rods to get it back together. I didn't have the rivet gun the service manual said to use.

Old hand ejector trigger/hammer parts: I have a 1905 3rd model that has the same type of lockwork. I disassembled and cleaned out the mechanism but could NOT get it back together. I struggled for a couple of weeks and finally found the secret. It won't go back together with the hammer down. It won't go back together with the hammer fully back. There is one exact location, partially cocked, where the parts can fit back in place. This was the most difficult firearm I have ever worked on.

If you right click, you can save those images to your computer, or buy the book. I was amazed however, to find that the Chicoine book is now selling for up to $300!!!!!!!!! Kindle version is only $15, but you have to buy a Kindle for $100!!!

I have not done it, but understand that you can download a Kindle App to just about any computer for free and then buy the book. Maybe someone has done this without buying a Kindle tablet?

__________________
Gary
SWCA 2515

I have the Kindle app on my desktop, laptop and Android phone. I have the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson on all of them and several of Chicoine's books.

__________________
Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

Gary, I just did it on my own PC...The program is a freebie and works like a charm... ...It was simple enough for even a simpleton like me......Ben

__________________
Cogito, ergo BOOM!...