I picked up a 4 Screw Pre-Model 10 (I think?) for $249 yesterday- How did I do?

.38 Special (+P OK???)

No model designation on frame inside yoke

5” pencil barrel

Half moon/half ramp front sight

Original grips (w/ matching serial number to gun)

Serial #C4339XX

Number “14” stamped into butt between “C” and rest of serial number (badge number, gun number???)

Mirror bore and chambers

Perfect mechanics

Some pretty heavy holster wear on high points and back of grip frame.

Grips almost smooth from wear in some spots.

Any ideas on year of production?

From its general condition and markings, I would say that it is for sure a police duty gun. Definitely shows the pattern of carried A LOT and shot VERY LITTLE.

The weapon looked like it had be cleaned pretty very well and then put into a velveteen pistol rug that had shed all over it for about 20 years…

A quick 30 minute cleaning/oiling and we are ready to hit the firing line.

Please comment.

Thanks,

Hunter

I picked up a 4 Screw Pre-Model 10 (I think?) for $249 yesterday- How did I do?

.38 Special (+P OK???)

No model designation on frame inside yoke

5” pencil barrel

Half moon/half ramp front sight

Original grips (w/ matching serial number to gun)

Serial #C4339XX

Number “14” stamped into butt between “C” and rest of serial number (badge number, gun number???)

Mirror bore and chambers

Perfect mechanics

Some pretty heavy holster wear on high points and back of grip frame.

Grips almost smooth from wear in some spots.

Any ideas on year of production?

From its general condition and markings, I would say that it is for sure a police duty gun. Definitely shows the pattern of carried A LOT and shot VERY LITTLE.

The weapon looked like it had be cleaned pretty very well and then put into a velveteen pistol rug that had shed all over it for about 20 years…

A quick 30 minute cleaning/oiling and we are ready to hit the firing line.

Please comment.

Thanks,

Hunter

.455-hunter - tried to email you with some tips/instructions for posting pics but you don't list your email in your profile, so . . . there are plenty of free hosting services (photobucket and imageshack immediately spring to mind, among others) that will upload your photos and give you the html codes to copy and paste into your posts to link the pictures and allow them to be seen here.

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Qui plantavit curabit

The SCSW3 reference is not much help here, so only if someone pipes up with personal experience can they say with any certainty - and even then the date could be off a couple years, or more.

At one time, member bdgreen had a nice post that ran for some time with instructions on posting pictures. I do not see it any more. You might send him an e-mail, or someone may show up with the step-by-step instructions. Basically, you have to get an account with someone who will host your picture on the www, then generate the proper image code and copy the code into your post. I use Photobucket. It is free and is simple to use, though in recent months they seem to be making "improvements" ( ), which tend to confuse some of us who are not fascinated with the PC.

I can come somewhat close, C459396 was shipped Oct. 59. But, it is a 4 screw Mod 10 no dash. Front sight a ramp. Mine was also a police gun, carried a lot and shot very little. Grips worn nearly smooth.

To post photo's, go to the "Forum Office", and the first permanent post is photo posting instructions. Once you do it it is easy.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Thanks! I will try to post my pics tonight after work.

The gun definitely does not have "10" or "Mod 10" anywhere inside the yoke on the frame.

Maybe it is one of the last "Pre-Model 10s"?

I am sure the sights are regulated for 158 gr. lead slugs at 755 fps, but how would the 130 gr. WWB/UMC FMJ loads do?

Is it OK to shoot +Ps in a gun of this vintage?

I am sure people do it all the time and survive nicely, but what reason would there be for doing it? You'll enjoy it more and worry less shooting standard .38s. The 130 gr. loads will probably work fine, but if you can find lead bullet loads (not jacketed), that would be my choice.

Thanks for the help on posting the pictures!

1. The serial you gave would be from 1960. A gun made then should have a model number stamped on it.

2. The gun has a 5" STANDARD barrel.

3. Shoot all the +P you want as it is loaded well below maximum pressure for the caliber.

4. Typical cop gun with holster wear and right stock almost beyond hope. Right handed holster so that side gets beat to death.

5. The price you paid is about the going rate for a gun in this condition. I see sellers asking more but not sure if they actually sell.

The 5" K frame is a cool gun until you try to find a proper holster.

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No life story has happy end.

The only this it has on the frame inside the yoke is a "0", a "7" in a circle, and what looks to be bottom of a "9" (partial stamp). The "0" has nothing resembling a "1" in front of it.

I guess the term "pencil barrel" is kinda like "high capacity magazine".

.455 Hunter,

That's the kind of Model 10/pre-model 10 I like to see! Lots of character and, I'm sure, history.

I'm stumped on the serial number. I agree with an earlier poster that the number you gave should be from 1960 and should have the model number 10-1 stamped on it. Check the serial number one more time to be sure. Maybe someone else will chime in with ideas.

As for the loads you mention, they'll probably be pretty close at up to 25 yards, but you won't know for sure until you try.

Congratulations on your beautiful revolver!

Donald

Here is a picture of the serial (C4339XX). I have tape over the last two digits, and the "14" is some sort of end user marking...



Here is a picture of the frame inside the yoke.




There is a "0", a "7" in a circle, and what looks to be bottom of a "9" (partial stamp).

Please comment!

It's possible that they simply forgot to stamp the model number. Things like that are not uncommon. Most often the incorrect number is stamped, but it could also be missed entirely. Such goofs usually don't affect value which tells you how often they occur.

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No life story has happy end.

SaxonPig, it's good to see you posting here again.

Model 10 or not, I am sure it will still be a great shooter!

I already have a 1906 production five screw .32/20 5" K-frame HE and a 1913 production five screw .32 Long 4" I-frame HE, so a four screw will be a good addition to my "collection". My 1972 Mod 28-2 6" will be happy to have someone closer in age with it in the safe.

Thanks for all your help and information! Maybe I will have to bug S&W about the gun's status sometime.

Hunter

+1

Thanks for posting, my kind of revolver.

My similar model shoots the 130 grain cheap (well used to be) .38's low and right compared to 158 grain ammo. They group "OK" but have a definite change in point of impact.
Your results may vary widely.
Enjoy your new S&W.

rayb

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"cumplo pero no obedezco"

I have a 4-screw stamped model 10 from around 1960. Five inch barrel, numbered diamond magnas. Like the OP's but in much better condition. You don't see many four screw, model stamped, no dash examples. Of the 500 or so model 10's currently on gunbroker, I don't recall seeing any of them. IMO, $249 was a real buy. Enjoy it.

It's a pre Model 10 with a most likely ship date of around Sept 1958, according to my database. "14" is most likely a rack or inventory number.

I don't know whether you noticed, but you revived a Zombie thread from 8 years ago.

By the way, screws really don't matter much in case of the M&P's. The upper sideplate screw went away around 1955, since then all pre-Model and Model 10's no-dash were four-screw.

Assuming model stamping started in the mid-430 range, I have a record of a Model 10 no-dash from mid-1960 in the 491 zip code. By that time the 10-1 with the HB was being made simultaneously, but there was still likely a total of several ten thousand like yours made. A lot went to police departments, so while not rare in the collectors' sense, it isn't too surprising many didn't survive until today.