I hope no one minds me posting this 'smithing question in this forum, the S&W 'Smithing section looked to be more about modern firearms.
Here is a pic of the lockworks of an 1899 HE that I mentioned on a previos post, I'm making a step by step photo/print log of the disassembly & cleaning of this revolver. Nothing special about it, just an average condition early HE.
Here is the question: If I am on the right track I need to loosen/remove the mainspring, then drift out the small pin for the trigger return spring and remove it to free up the removale of the other parts, correct?
I'm quite experienced with 'smithing my own firearms and am no noobie when it comes to getting into the internals of a firearm, this one is completely different from any S&W I've seen before, but I think I'm on the right track.
Right now the mainspring strain screw is frozen and I'm applying Kroil, time and patience to it so I'm in no hurry to get it apart.
Any help on whether I am going about this correctly?
Russ Donegan

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Got a Phd from Hard Knocks U

I hope no one minds me posting this 'smithing question in this forum, the S&W 'Smithing section looked to be more about modern firearms.
Here is a pic of the lockworks of an 1899 HE that I mentioned on a previos post, I'm making a step by step photo/print log of the disassembly & cleaning of this revolver. Nothing special about it, just an average condition early HE.
Here is the question: If I am on the right track I need to loosen/remove the mainspring, then drift out the small pin for the trigger return spring and remove it to free up the removale of the other parts, correct?
I'm quite experienced with 'smithing my own firearms and am no noobie when it comes to getting into the internals of a firearm, this one is completely different from any S&W I've seen before, but I think I'm on the right track.
Right now the mainspring strain screw is frozen and I'm applying Kroil, time and patience to it so I'm in no hurry to get it apart.
Any help on whether I am going about this correctly?
Russ Donegan

__________________
Got a Phd from Hard Knocks U

No, I assembled/disassembled mine without removing the trigger return spring.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Muley is right - don't remove that pin when the spring is under tension.

When the main-spring tension screw is free, remove the main spring, and then the
hammer, and then the cylinder assembly, and then the cylinder release mechanism.

Now you can double-action the trigger, and you will see how it compress's that
secondary spring. You can make a little piece of wood, or brass, that will catch,
on its upper end, in the end of the slot for the cylinder release slide. The other
end should catch that second spring, just below that levering piece. You fit this
tight with the trigger fully pulled pack. This will hold that rebound spring down.
You can now release the trigger, and lift out the whole assembly.

Now - if you want, take a pair of pliers, wrap the end with tape, and catch hold
of the end of the rebound spring. Tighten up, and that holding piece will come free.
Release the pliers gently. If you want, but its not necessary, you can remove
that rebound spring. Generally, its not necessary to take it out.

To reassemble, compress the spring with the pliers, put bcak the temporary retaining
pin, and then drop in the trigger assembly. Squeeze the trigger enough to release
the holding pin, and then reassemble the rest of the lockwork.

Later, Mike Priwer

Thanks all, the Kroil worked on the strain screw finally. After tension was released and the mainspring was removed the hammer assembly came out easily. I had already hit on the idea of wrapping long needle nosed plier with tape and levering the rebound spring down to free up tension on the trigger and sear assemblies. With the pliers, a third hand and a small child things came out.
The cylinder stop assembly is bizarre, it is a self contained unit with a small (I mean small) screw holding the plunger/spring in place and it just came out with a little nudge. Same with the cylinder release latch, the latch spring and plunger is held in with an equally small screw holding it all in place.
I've got it all apart and gave up on removing the rebound spring. It will be cleaned in place.
I'm now about to remove around 100 years of funk from this revolver. It is in remarkably good condition for it's age, S/N is 9834, frame, cylinder and barrel flat all match.
I've taken step by step pic's of all of this and have also taken written notes as I complete each step. Don't know what good that will do, but may post a link to the whole process for posterity for any fool that wants to repeat this exercise.
Ya'll take care and thanks again. Let me know if you want to see any particular assemblies in this early model, it is like nothing I've seen before.
RD

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Got a Phd from Hard Knocks U

Hi, Thanks for the pictures, its good to see the old ones and folks involved with them. Also good to know knowledgeable people are still around for help. My 1st model .32-20 and M1899 .38 are identical when it comes to the internal parts. I had to replace the return spring on the .38 and good luck to you finding one if you ever need one.
Also the cylinder stop has a detent pin that the trigger acts on. I thought mine was worn down, but it just slid in a bit. It is staked in now. Thanks to all and this great site.
RS