I stopped by the local Cabela's store tonight, and found a treasure. At least I think so. It's a pre model 18 K-22 4 inch. Hopefully I can learn a bit more about it.

S/N K1346xx

It has a 5 screw frame, narrow grooved trigger, and semi target hammer. The front sight blade is pinned to the ramp with 2 pins.
Are these grips considered "cokes" or does that only apply to N frames?

It has seen plenty of use, but there is no rust and it locks up tight. The single action trigger pull is like glass.
According to the SCSW it looks just like the "Model 18" shown on page 185, and page 402 lists the K22 Combat Masterpiece as being introduced in 1949.

Best of all, it was $299.
Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

I stopped by the local Cabela's store tonight, and found a treasure. At least I think so. It's a pre model 18 K-22 4 inch. Hopefully I can learn a bit more about it.

S/N K1346xx

It has a 5 screw frame, narrow grooved trigger, and semi target hammer. The front sight blade is pinned to the ramp with 2 pins.
Are these grips considered "cokes" or does that only apply to N frames?

It has seen plenty of use, but there is no rust and it locks up tight. The single action trigger pull is like glass.
According to the SCSW it looks just like the "Model 18" shown on page 185, and page 402 lists the K22 Combat Masterpiece as being introduced in 1949.

Best of all, it was $299.
Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

You got a heck of a deal on a nice gun. I love my pre-18, probably my favorite k-22 of all. The grips aren't cokes, they're non-relieved diamond targets, and are fairly desirable.

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Matt

Member, T.S.R.A. & N.R.A.

Thanks, These grips fit my hand like they were custom made. I can't wait to see how she shoots.

I think this one might get a trip back to Springfield for a reblue.

A while back I made a mistake at the same Cabela's. I passed on a 3.5 inch Model 27 for $425. The way they had it laying on the shelf it looked unfired, perfect. But when I looked it over, one side of the cylinder had most of the blue gone and significant pitting. It must have laid in salt water or something. I passed on it, and have kicked myself ever since. I should have bought it and sent it straight back to S&W for a refurb.

Congrats on a highly desirable S&W. I feel compelled to offer my 2 cents however. From the pictures that gun doesn't appear to need a reblue IMO. Shoot it and enjoy it knowing you made a great deal. Otherwise you'll have a $600 pre 18 that you'll likely never get your money back on. I think she is pretty just the way she is.

Nice find either way!

Character! That gun has character. No to the reblue,IMO. Even with the small chip,the stocks should be worth a buck and a half,or thereabouts. Nice grab!
f.t.

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South Carolina-God's country

What fat tom says goes double for me.

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God spelled backwards is dog.

According to the SCSW, this one was made in late 1951, does that sound right?

I can live with the metal finish, but the grips need to be redone. Any thoughts on a good man for that job?

DWFAN on this forum (Paul Gendron) is the "go to" guy for getting those grips spruced up.

That 1951 date sounds about right, it fits with the time frame when those non-relieved target grips were made, which was only a few years after they first came out. They are becoming valuable as they were only made for a few years, before the extractor relieved (football cut out) versions appeared.

Many of these early diamond target grips were subsequently modified with a relief cut for the extractor, so unmodified sets are harder to find... hence the added value/premium for an unmolsted set.

If and when you do decided to do something with the gun's finish, nix the idea of sending to back to S&W and use Ford's instead. S&W no longer does in-house bluing and outsources the work.

There have been way too many postings here about guns coming back looking worse with rounded edges, buffed out markings and even damage... that has convinved me that I wouldn't trust S&W anymore, especially with a vintage gun.

BTW.... nice catch!!

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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

Do the grips yourself. Get some acetone and a suitable container. I use a freebie plastic container that deli sliced lunchmeat comes in. It needs a good lid. Let them soak 8-10 hours and then scrub them with a toothbrush or 3m pad or both. Have some fine sandpaper around too. You'll be able to tell when the finish is gone.

I like Linspeed oil finish. I apply it with my fingertip. Let a coat dry for 6-8 hours, sand lightly and put on another coat. Do this 4-5 times until you're happy. Good thing about oil finish is it's easily reversed if you don't like it but it's not hard to do.

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God spelled backwards is dog.

I'm sorry but that's not very good advice for a set of grips that are worth almost as much as the gun. I don't usualy butt in when someone offers their views on refinishing and will also offer the fact that Kieth Brown does wonderful restorations.
DW

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"NUTS"