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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #1  
Old 08-09-2007, 09:13 AM
willy willy is offline
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CYLINDER GAP ON 1917  
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After getting a 1917 I noticed some end shake in the cylinder.
It shoots great but has a pretty large cylinder gap when the cylinder is to the rear.
Is there anything I can do (washer?)to close this gap up a bit?
Or is setting the barrel back the only option?

Willy
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:13 AM
willy willy is offline
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CYLINDER GAP ON 1917  
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: ohio usa
Posts: 503
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Liked 117 Times in 71 Posts
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After getting a 1917 I noticed some end shake in the cylinder.
It shoots great but has a pretty large cylinder gap when the cylinder is to the rear.
Is there anything I can do (washer?)to close this gap up a bit?
Or is setting the barrel back the only option?

Willy
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  #3  
Old 08-09-2007, 01:34 PM
Stumpnokker Stumpnokker is offline
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CYLINDER GAP ON 1917 CYLINDER GAP ON 1917 CYLINDER GAP ON 1917 CYLINDER GAP ON 1917 CYLINDER GAP ON 1917  
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Brownell's used to sell washer/spacers to correct endshake. I don't know if they have them now. You might call their tech department as they are very knowledgeable
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Old 08-09-2007, 03:30 PM
mikepriwer mikepriwer is offline
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CYLINDER GAP ON 1917 CYLINDER GAP ON 1917 CYLINDER GAP ON 1917 CYLINDER GAP ON 1917 CYLINDER GAP ON 1917  
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Willy

Putting a washer inside the cylinder bearing hole will only
push the cylinder to the rear, thus opening the barrel/cylinder
gap. Pushing the cylinder back is the right thing to do, because
that helps keep the gun in proper time. If the cylinder works
itself forward, the hand doesn't always function quite right,
resulting in timing problems.

The right thing to do is to get the end-play out of it, then
if necessary, get the barrel seated one more turn, and take the
excess off the face of the forcing cone. This is an extreme
measure ; if the gap is not too large, I'd be inclined to leave
it alone.

Later, Mike Priwer
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