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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 05-22-2008, 02:06 PM
nbliss nbliss is offline
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Can anybody tell me what the purpose of the screw in front of the triggerguard on 4-screw and 5-screw Smiths is?
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:06 PM
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Can anybody tell me what the purpose of the screw in front of the triggerguard on 4-screw and 5-screw Smiths is?
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:11 PM
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It was to retain the cylinder stop spring. On later 3 screw models the spring is installed fron the inside into a blind hole.

And welcome to the forum.
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:12 PM
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It retains the spring and plunger that tension the cylinder locking bolt, which in turn protrudes from the floor of the frame window and engages the cylinder notches.

Tim
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:15 PM
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Thanks for the quick help. I assume it should be kept tight - not for adjusting tension or anything.
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:19 PM
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Yes, keep it tight.
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:19 PM
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Yup, tight.
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Old 11-20-2009, 01:43 PM
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Hello all:
My first post. Concerning the cylinder stop spring and plunger: I have a 1960 Model 28. I took the trigger guard screw off, and the spring and rod both popped out. Now I can't figure out which went in first: the spring or the plunger? The plunger is a small metal rod, whose diameter varies at the tip to accept the spring. Don't know if that makes any sense. Any clues? I can't seem to find any diagrams on the Model 28-1, which is what I have.
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Old 11-20-2009, 01:52 PM
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Plunger first, then the spring and, finally, the screw.
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Old 11-20-2009, 03:50 PM
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Watch out Gizamo may be after that 28-1 if your not careful, I think he is looking for one.
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:39 PM
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I don't want to hijack this thread but can you post some pictures of that 28-1? I don't recall ever seeing a -1.
Welcome to the forum.

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Originally Posted by bsook1 View Post
Hello all:
My first post. Concerning the cylinder stop spring and plunger: I have a 1960 Model 28. I took the trigger guard screw off, and the spring and rod both popped out. Now I can't figure out which went in first: the spring or the plunger? The plunger is a small metal rod, whose diameter varies at the tip to accept the spring. Don't know if that makes any sense. Any clues? I can't seem to find any diagrams on the Model 28-1, which is what I have.
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:43 PM
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Default 28-1 ?

If I remember correctly, I don't think anyone here has ever seen a 28-1. IF, I am remembering from previous posts, a 28-1 has not surfaced among collectors yet. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

I, too, would like to see pictures, especially under the yoke, where a 28-1 would be indicated.
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:58 PM
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bscook1,

Please post pics of that gun...especially the stamping for the model number. If that is indeed a 28-1, you have a exceptionally rare gun.


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Old 11-22-2009, 10:06 PM
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Any additional information on the 28-1?
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightowl View Post
Any additional information on the 28-1?
Just that none of us have ever seen one.

Does the gun actually have Mod 28-1 stamped in the yoke cut, or does it simply say Mod 28 ???
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Old 11-23-2009, 09:46 AM
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Hello all: First, thanks for the quick replies on the order of plunger vs spring first. Unfortunately, I put it in the spring first then plunger, now the bloody thing is stuck. I hope I can get it out without taking out the cylinder stop.

Secondly, I don't want to mislead anyone. I don't think the gun says "Model 28-1". It is a 1960 Highway Patrolman, with a screw under the triggerguard. The only reason I know its a 1960 model 28 is because I called S&W and they told me. I then found some info on the forum that says 1960 model 28's are "Model 28-1", because of said screw. I am pretty sure the gun doesn't indicate this though. I will post some pics as soon as I can. Again, sorry for any confusion, and double sorry if I got anyone's hopes up! Its only been within the last few months that I've gained my interest in firearms, so I'm on a learning curve here.
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Old 11-23-2009, 09:48 AM
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Also I want to mention I can't get on the forum as much as I would like, so please excuse any delayed answers and responses. I will get the pics up by tomorrow though.
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:03 PM
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Default Model 28 pics

Some pics of the Model 28, made in late 1959 or early 1960. I was able to get it all back together again.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 28portSideCompressed.jpg (18.5 KB, 232 views)
File Type: jpg 28starboardCompressed.jpg (17.5 KB, 223 views)
File Type: jpg Mod28serialCompressed.jpg (20.2 KB, 366 views)
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:25 PM
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That is definitely a straight model 28 as is shown by the stamping on the frame. Known only as the Highway Patrolman prior to 1957 when the model numbers appeared. The HP was assigned model number 28 and that was then modified in 1960 with the engineering change of the extractor thread to the model 28-1. In 1961 the cylinder stop screw was eliminated and this engineering change was identified by a -2. This remained in effect until around 1982 when the third engineering change took place and the cylinders were no longer counterbored and the barrels no longer pinned identified now as the 28-3. No other changes were made and the model 28 was discontinued in 1986.

As you can see, there was a very short window between the model 28-1 designation in 1960 and the model 28-2 designation in 1961, thus making the 28-1 a rare bird if it exists. Hence all of the interest in whether it was really a 28-1.

Since many of these dates are rough and different guns went through these engineering changes at different times, there is even the possibility that no 28-1's were ever produced and that both the -1 and -2 engineering changes were incorporated into the -2 models.

Only time will tell.
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Old 11-25-2009, 11:54 AM
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Thanks for the info JSR! Good stuff. Mine is the 4-screw, which you mentioned. It is in excellent mechanical condition, with a great exterior to boot. It shoots great as well, much tighter than my new J frame! Holy cow that thing is hard to shoot accurately!
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Old 11-25-2009, 04:19 PM
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JSR IIIs description of the changes leaves me with a much better understanding of the progression, but still 2 unresolved questions and a subsidiary question:

1) Did S&W ever actually stamp 28-1 on a HP?

2) Since the engineering change is documented, wouldn't any HP with both the new threads and the trigger guard screw be a 28-1 by definition, for collecting purposes, whether or not so marked? (In other words, if the OPs gun has the new threads, isn't he correct in calling it a 28-1, since that is how S&W defines it?)

3) If both 1) and 2) are true would that then mean that a complete collection now requires both a marked and an unmarked specimen in each barrel length?

Inquiring minds want to know.
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Old 11-25-2009, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbliss View Post
Thanks for the quick help. I assume it should be kept tight - not for adjusting tension or anything.
ALL screws on a S&W are to be kept tight - there are NO "tension" adjustments. Doing so will result in a failure of some sort sooner or later.
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadin View Post
Plunger first, then the spring and, finally, the screw.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I recently had the same question and a search brought this thread up. I took the triggerguard screw out of a (roughly) 1956 Combat Masterpiece then had to figure out how to re-install it. I may have to go back in and see how I replaced the parts.

But my question is: Does the plunder go in a certain way, i.e., is it shaped in such a way that one end goes in first?

I thank you guys for any and all help you can provide.
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Old 09-28-2014, 09:20 AM
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The plunger should have one end that is rounded and the other is stepped. The rounded end goes in first, and the spring goes over the stepped end, then finally the screw.
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:08 AM
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Tom,

Thanks. I'll try to get to the work bench later today and see if I did it right.

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The plunger should have one end that is rounded and the other is stepped. The rounded end goes in first, and the spring goes over the stepped end, then finally the screw.
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:43 AM
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One more question what condition the gun is in when doing this? By this I mean fully assembled, cylinder open or removed? Or does it not matter.

Would rather ask this question now before I do something else wrong.
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Old 09-28-2014, 11:50 AM
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The cylinder stop has to be in place, but other than that, it doesn't matter.
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:38 AM
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Whenever the design calls for a plunger and a spring to be utilized, the plunger always goes towards the part under tension, and if a screw is used, the spring always goes under the screw.
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Old 09-29-2014, 06:22 AM
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Jim,

That is a good rule of thumb to know, thanks.

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Whenever the design calls for a plunger and a spring to be utilized, the plunger always goes towards the part under tension, and if a screw is used, the spring always goes under the screw.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:49 PM
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Well, I finally found a few minutes to check this out. Turns out I did have it in correctly. I replaced it and tightened the screw and the old gal works great!

Thanks for the help.
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