Those are sweeeetttt...you are a lucky man cowtown

45wheelgun;
Where did the full lug barrel come from? Was the lug added to the cut barrel? And the ejector rod looks very modern, how is it fitted, does it unscrew clockwise or anti?

Neato gun.

Fellas and gals,

In the spirit of this chopped 1917 discussion,.... my 3" 19117 just went to the gun Dr. and needs a hand and cylinder star. The smithy cannot locate the parts and so far I too haven't been able to locate. Would any of Ya'all have them to sell or can direct me to someone who does? Thanks in advance.

+1

Not having commissioned the original work, the following is just supposition.

The thinking is that that it isn't the original barrel. Possibly a M-26 barrel cut and installed. It is a tapered barrel so it isn't a M25 barrel. Here is a close-up of the top of the barrel. The top strap checkering was part of the original modifications not part of the engraving process.



The extractor rod is the original. The "button" on the end was milled down to the diameter of the rest of the rod. Three ball detents were installed to facilitate a tight lockup.



I would love to hear differing opinions on the barrel/under-lug discussion, as the opinions expressed above are a consensus of "best guesses".

Dave

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Dave

Not sure if they have the exact parts you are looking for in stock, but Numrich is only source I am aware of:

Numrich Arms

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Dave

Go down to the gunsmithing section and do a search on 1917s. A modern hand will fit the 1917. If you get an oversize one, the cylinder star may be OK. Obviously, I do not know if there is anything else wrong with it. Also try Jerry Rodgers at [email protected]. He has a bunch of old parts.

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S&WCA 1729

Not trying to highjack but those chopped 1917's sure do look nice!! I have one in sight that was Nickel'ed!! Any idea on what do give for it?? I figure you guys can give me a fair value since you have them! Hope I am in order with my Dilemna!!

Thanks in Advance!
PackN

Chef,
Correct decision to chop! Have chopped several guns but just did my first 1937 Brazilian. I also wanted to retain the original sight. Don't be afraid to try yourself. You can always go to the gunsmith if not happy with your work. I went with 3 1/4". Get your fine toothed hacksaw blade and start out a little longer than you want so you have room to correct and square off the end of the muzzle with a file. Crowning the bore is no big deal especially on a belly gun. I used a new counter sink bit in my Mikita on very slow speed and it shoots deadly. You don't need to take off very much at all. Check for burrs. Some guys do this with an old ball type door hinge pin mounted in a power drill with fine valve grinding compound. Both work great. The outside of the crown takes more time with file and emery cloth but doesn't affect the accuracy of course. Cut the sight out of the cut off piece of barrel and use a rat tail file to concave the underside to fit the curvature of the barrel. Leave it rough to hold the silver solder. Remember with a shorter barrel, the front sight needs to be a little lower. So tape it in place and go to the range to test fire. By filing the underside of the sight base to adjust point of bullet impact, you won't have to mess up the top curvature of the sight by filing it lower. Once it shoots to point of aim, get a bottle of mapp gas $8.00 (not propane; doesn't get hot enough), tin both surfaces with silver solder using flux; barrel and underside of base. Sand both surfaces smooth and leave only a very thin layer of solder so the sight isn't too high when done. Place sight on barrel and eyeball it from every direction; the curvature filed in the underside of sight base will help align the sight correctly. If not, fine sand the solder surface until it does. Don't need to clamp to barrel, just apply heat and the two tinned surfaces will nestle right down and melt together. Check final alignment and let cool. Voila, your done. Mine hasn't shot off yet and it was the first soldered sight I'd ever done. If you don't trust yourself with soldering, just let the gunsmith do that part. You already did the hard work of cutting and fitting so he shouldn't charge you much at all! Then it will be YOUR project.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Just got my first 1917, and it is nickeled. Absolutely tight gun, with a great nickel job. Now I want to locate a beat up 1917 to start a chop job on. Can you find them still? I have only seen the one nickel job around here (SC.)

Do you have a photo with the wooden grips and the Tyler T-Grip?

Thanks,

Bill

Bill here is a photo with the Tyler Grip added with the older grip and lanyard loop put back on.

and here's the replacement LH 25-14 3in with T-grip added.

This is almost exactly what I want... the only thing different would be vintage stag grips in place of the MOP's