27-2 cylinder problem

fourdoorvette357 · #1 09-21-2009, 08:09 PM

hi everyone,

i just bought a used 27-2. i looked it over at the gun shop and everything worked fine. the bluing wasn't exactly perfect but it was alright and price was good from what my research showed.

i took it home and for some reason the cylinder wont open. it worked when i was showing it to my brother. i was gonna clean it up a bit and i went to open the cylinder and now its jammed. everything works, the action is still smooth. single action and double action. just cant open it.

any ideas? id take i back to the gun shop but i heard the gunsmith was recently let go.

toroflow1 · #2 09-21-2009, 08:15 PM

Sounds like the extractor rod has loosened up and won't allow the forward lug to disengage. No need for a gunsmith, unless of course you don't like money!

TSQUARED · #3 09-21-2009, 08:48 PM

Your problem is most probably a loosened ejector rod. I had that happen frequenbtly on a ca 1960's S&W 44 Special revolver and finally learned to screw it back into place without removing the cylinder. Once you get it apart be careful when tightening the ejector rod so that you do not bend it.

fyimo · #4 09-21-2009, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TSQUARED

Your problem is most probably a loosened ejector rod. I had that happen frequenbtly on a ca 1960's S&W 44 Special revolver and finally learned to screw it back into place without removing the cylinder. Once you get it apart be careful when tightening the ejector rod so that you do not bend it.

I have a no dash Model 64 snub nose that one day locked up like that and I took it to my local smith. He went to his desk and in 30 seconds came back with it working. I asked what was wrong with it and he said the extractor rod was loose. It's really a simple thing and easily fixed.

fourdoorvette357 · #5 09-21-2009, 09:09 PM

hahaha you guys are geniuses!!! worked like a charm! thanks!!

Gun 4 Fun · #6 09-21-2009, 09:10 PM

Remember that your rod has left hand threads to tighten it. A thin strip of rubber slipped in the ejector rod housing and around the rod, then doubled back will allow a good enough grip to tighten it without damage. You can then tighten it properly when you get it open. Unscrew it, and use a light drop of blue Loc Tite on the threads, then use the rubber for grip, and tighten it tight with finger pressure.

Mountainbear · #7 09-21-2009, 09:25 PM

Every time you go out shooting, give it a check. Especially if you are shooting full house .357 Magnum loads. After a box of ammo, open the cylinder and make sure the ejector rod is still tight in the yoke.

Even my little 17-4 does this, so its not just with the magnum guns. Congrats on the purchase, though. Always wanted one of the 27's ugly brothers (Model 28).

fourdoorvette357 · #8 09-21-2009, 09:39 PM

yeah ill def do the loc-tite tip and check after each trip... thanks for all the advice!

a friend of mine has a 28-2 with a 6in barrel... that was the one that made me wanna find an N-frame 357. i stumbled on this 27 and the rest is history. i have a new model 10 also and love it to death...

Gun 4 Fun · #9 09-22-2009, 12:38 PM

When tightening down the rod, fill at least half( I fill all of them) of the charge holes with empty brass. It takes the strain off of the locating pins in the ejector star/ratchet.

Sportsterguy · #10 09-22-2009, 04:37 PM

I've owned S&W's since my first 6" model 57 back in 75 (cheap Dirty Harry revolver, also my all time sentimental favorite and deer hunter extrodinaire) . I've learned more on this forum thanks to you kind folks in the last few of years than in all them other years combined.

Thank you all!