A friend of mine is selling his 19-3 which is Nickel plated w/ 6" barrel. I haven't seen the gun in about 15 years, but will be going shooting with him at the end of the month. I know he hasn't shot it much in that time.
If the full Model number is 19-3670886-11, can anyone tell me what year it was made?
Assuming it's in good shape, what would a ballpark value for this be?
Also, if anyone has any tips on what to look for when I get a chance to look at and shoot it later this month, I would appreciate it.
This is would be my first revolver and I don't want to over pay for a piece of junk, but don't want to underpay my friend what it's worth.

The year would be 1966 to 77. Can't make much
out of the serial #. The serial # should be on the
butt of the gun. With that # we can come closer
to the actual year. Don

__________________
"Don't worry be happy"

I bought a nickel 19-3 two years ago for $350 and thought it a bargain. I'd expect to pay $450 for another one just like it today.

Thank you both for the info. I will get the serial numbers and post them with some pics after we shoot it on the 24th.

I don't have the 19-3 but do have the nickel 6" 19-4 that I paid $400 for about a year ago and thought I had made a good deal. Mine was mfg in 1980.

Condition is everything,
Without some good clear pictures its impossable to say for sure.
Hawkeye is correct about dates of manufacture.

I recently passed on the same gun at $450.00 because I prefer a 4" barrel.

Originality is important also, does it have original box, docs, grips.
Nickel tends to hold up against rust better than blue but it scratches, and can flake and bubble,
Blued guns are relatively easy to touch up where a nickel gun with finish issue must be totally refinished which is usually never cost effective.
Besides the condition of the bore the cylinder is the place a revolver usually starts to show if it was used alot or not.
The more it is fired the more a drag line will appear on the cylinder.

Using full power 357 magnum loads obviously accelerates wear more than 38 target loads.
After confirming the cylinder is empty squezze the trigger holding it back, Now wiggle the cylinder side to side should be nice and tight with minute to no movement. release the trigger, now check for movement front to back especially watching the ejector rod, It should not wobble or move around.

Lastly open the cylinder and closely inspect the rear of the barrel that comes closest to the cylinder, This model was prone to cracking the "Forcing cone" at the 6 O clcock position under heavy use.

The model 19-3 is one of my favorites, they were the last of that model with diamond grips (if it was made before 1968) and last of the pinned barrel recessed cylinder model 19's. Good Luck