I've been bitin with the model 27 & 28 bug. I need advice on the value difference on the different barrell lengths and box vs. presentation case. Also I see a lot of presentation cases that the blue liner has broken down. Is this able to be replaced and if so is it worth messing with?

Sir, hard question--lots of things play into it.

All else being equal (and how often does that actually happen?):

A Model 27 will cost more than a Model 28, sometimes a couple hundred dollars more.

An older gun will cost more than a newer version of the same model.

Here lately, the short barrel guns usually cost more than a long barrel gun of the same model. Not long ago, the long barrels fetched the higher price. Fads. [shrug]

Guns with the "three Ts" (target hammer, trigger, and stocks) usually cost more than guns without them.

Guns with the correct box and other ephemera cost more than those without. How much more depends on condition of the extras, what they are (box vs. presentation case, for example), and era.

Presentation cases can be re-flocked. Someone on this board does such work, but his username escapes me right now.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.

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Wishin' don't make it so.

On Model 27's the 4 inch barrel is the rarest and will cost more then the other barrel lengths. The 5 inch barrel is considered by many to have the best balance and will also cost a preimum over the 6 or 8 3/8 inch barrels. The 3.5 inch barrel is probably the hottest seller in the past 6 months and also gets a premium over the longer barrel lengths.

The 27 is the darling of the S&W collectors and pristine pieces with the proper paperwork, tool kit, and box or presentation case get really get preimum prices.

Model 27's that have noticable wear are shooter grade guns and the will be cheaper then collector grade guns. You will still pay a premium for the better barrrel lengths but prices will be much lower then collector grade guns.

Model 28's are really nice but don't have the following of the model 27. A Model 28 will cost hundreds less then then a top grade Model 27 and on the Model 28 the 4 inch barrel is sought after but not really rare.

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Art Salmons

Welcome to the forum!

The forum member who re-finishes the case liners, goes by the name of jcelect, here on the forum. He does top notch work too!

The posters above, have said all that I would have said, so nuff said.

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S&WCA #2226

Thanks for all the info. This forum can really add to a S&W addiction. One other question I forgot to ask earlier. I see alot of claims that a gun is unfired. What is used to determine this. Some of them do look that way but others I really question and I'm very new at this.
Thanks

An unfired gun will have a carbon ring around every other chamber mouth, or three total left from where the factory test fired it.

You can shoot one, then clean it very well if you know how, and fire every other chamber to look original, but it is very hard to do. There should be little to no powder fouling up on top of the barrel shank, only a little possibly from the test firing, or flame cutting in the topstrap above the barrel cylinder gap. A turn line on the cylinder doesn't mean the gun was fired. It does show that the action has been cycled some though.

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S&WCA #2226

[QUOTE=Gun 4 Fun;1158319]Welcome to the forum!

The forum member who re-finishes the case liners, goes by the name of jcelect, here on the forum. He does top notch work too!


I also heartly recommend jcelect and his work on presentation cases. He just refurbished one for me, both insides and outside, and did a great job for a very reasonable price.
teesur

On the other hand an M-28 with official markings showing agency issue is quite desireable. Then we're getting into 5 screws, 4 screws, pre-1957 guns, etc.
Here's what to do-get one of each, try for say, 10 years, see which one you like more.

One of each----sounds like a great idea!!!
I bought a 27-2 5" about a month ago and a 27-2 6" from arkieron on this forum today so thats a great start for me. I'll post pictures if I can figure out how.
HELP!! with the pics please.

I had my eye on that 27-2 6" as well. Ended up finding one locally, but just returned it due to a serial number problem. Did get a 28-2 6" that I am very happy with though. Something about the workman approach of the m28 appeals to me.

The above responses broke it down pretty well regarding m27 versus m28.

So I am left wondering, is this m28 enough for me, or must I continue to pursue a m27?