I just picked up a really nice 4" nickel plated Model 34-1 .22 revolver and was wondering if it's ok to dry fire it? I've been told by those who "know" that it's ok, and others who supposedly "know", that is isn't. I am waiting to hear from someone who really knows LOL.

Not wanting to take a chance on screwing it up I'm not doing any dry firing until I'm certain that it's ok.

Thanks

Don't dry fire S&W .22LR revolvers. Centerfire revolvers are okay to dry fire.

__________________
195th Session FBINA

+1

It's right on their websight-
FAQs - Smith & Wesson

....or thought they knew. Do NOT dry fire that rimfire.

Brian~

+1 Never, it will cause cylinder and firing pin damage.

Thanks for the quick reply.

It's a really nice gun, I'd hate to damage it.

From what I understand, the reason not to dry fire a .22 rimfire revolver is becasue the firing pin might/could/or will make contact with the cylinder.

See, now I was always told that it was not cool to dry fire older revolvers of any kind. I just picked up this decent model 19 that was built in '73 and have been terrified to dry fire it because of these stories.

__________________
91st SMW, Minot AFB
Minot, ND

That is not really considered an old revolver, and dryfiring it will not hurt it one bit.

Limited dry firing shouldn't hurt most centerfire revolvers and a few months ago I would have said +3 (or whatever). Then I bought a nice, clean, barely-a-turn-line M28-2. On about the third cylinder full of ammo I put through it the hammer nose broke off, dropped into the action and, as I went "Click, click, what the heck?" found it's way against the cylinder stop where it jammed. Getting the cylinder open left a nice scratch between two of the notches. A new hammer nose and she's back in business, but I suspect whoever had it before me spent more time dry firing than live firing.

Now I would invest in a set of A-Zoom snap caps, then dry fire away. The caps will more closely simulate the weight of a loaded gun, and the action will only improve with use. That firing pin was designed to hit something when the hammer falls.

__________________
I need ammo, not a ride.

I agree with Buford57,good quality snap caps are cheap insurance against damage,you never see anybody dry fire a high end shotgun these days.So why take a chance with your handgun.

I agree with the snap caps. But, I had a new 629 and the hammer nose broke off and fell into the action the first time I took it out. Had to send it back to Smith to get it fixed.

__________________
jj

This may be crazy, and is a little tedious at best, but I've saved a few .22 LR cases after a range session on occasion to use for dry firing. The revolver rimfire firing pins always strike at 12 o'clock, and by making sure an unstruck portion of rim is at the top of the chamber when loading I can get a few practice strikes out of each empty. Does anyone see any harm in this, or is there such a thing as a .22 LR snap-cap?

__________________
Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Alan, I think you will be fine using the empties. The do make what are called "action proving dummies" for 22 lr but they are just aluminum or plastic and I would think the empties are just as good.

__________________
John. SWCA #1586

Several have mentioned the hammer nose breaking off. I remember talking to a gunsmith back when all Smiths had hammer mounted firing pins. He said that he frequently got Smiths in for repair with that exact problem where the pin broke during dry firing.

It can happen. I prefer to not subject my Smiths, or any of my guns to dry firing.

Some say use snap caps. I have also heard of people forgetting they replaced snap caps w/live ammo.

Therefore, the only time I pull the trigger on my guns is at the range.

+1............

They do make dedicated snap caps for rimfires, but they don't last long. Fortunately they are fairly inexpensive.

Since S&W claims that you can dry fire their centerfire guns without harm, I'd listen to them. After all they are the ones who made them and warranty them (or at least those made since 1989).

I believe that far more firing pin noses break off from defects in the metal (which can happen even if you have never dry fired your gun), than from simply the act of dry firing.

In the end, it is all up to what you feel comfortable with, but at least read the link I posted above to S&W's advice.

Thanks for all the great info. I just looked at Brownells and they have the action proving dummies for $7 for a box of 50. Pachmayr also makes 22lr "snap caps" for about $6/24.

I can't wait to shoot the 34-1 I just bought. I really hate winter in the N.E.

I have a .22 Outdoorsman (1937) that I wouldn't dream of dry firing without snap caps. I won't take credit for discovering this, but here's the absolute best solution for .22 snap caps I've found.

They're hollow wall anchors for #4-#6 screws. A box of 100 is about $3 or so at Home Depot. If your forget what size you need, just remember yellow. That's the color code for this size from all manufacturers.

These anchors fit the cylinder and cylinder recesses in the K22 exactly. In fact, I can load them into a Ruger Mark III magazine and they feed and eject just like live ammo.

Buy a box and share them with your .22-owning friends. I wouldn't be without them.

I have a set of .22 snapcaps and it says right on the package that they are for testing the action only, not dry firing.

Dang, I'm so glad you boys dug up a post from 2010 to get in your 2 cents worth!!!!!!!!!

I was scared that Sparkz wasn't going to stick around long enough to read your input.

I don't know if Smith & Wesson is considered "in the know" or not , but the original instruction sheet for the Model 34, page 4, paragraph 7 under Helpful Hints, states "Practice dry shooting with empty gun."

I have always taken S&W at its word, even with its rimfire revolvers, and have never had a problem. There is a limiter when prevents the firing pin from striking the cylinder face. Now admittedly, I have only been dry firing mine for a little over 40 years, so maybe something will break or some little mark may appear on the cylinder face on the rims of the charge holes which support the cartridge, but I suspect I will be long gone before there is a problem, so I won't care.

If you go to the link below, you can see the Model 34 instruction sheet. If others have actually had a problem, ok, but I never have and will continue the practice of dry firing so long as I live and am able to shoot.

Keep in mind, I do not claim to be "in the know" more than any other person. I simply read the instructions.

http://stevespages.com/pdf/s&w_34-35.pdf

dlidster, what a grate tip to pass on. Thanks a bunch. Those are at the top of my list for the next trip to ACE Hardware. (smile)

Dave

__________________
RSVN '69-'71
PCSD (Ret)

Nothin' like zombie to re-new some interest in a popular issue.
I won't dryfire a rimfire. You gottahave something there for the FP to bear against that isn't chamber face or solid steel.
I like the 'empties' technique, and the wall anchor trick. I'm gonna give it a shot.

When I dry fire with 22 empties - I open the cylinder and rotate them about one eigth inch each once around the cylinder. I try to get maybe six or seven hammer strikes on each (been years ago).

Very good idea. Next time I'm at Home Depot I will get a box.

I broke 2 firing pins (hammer nose) on my 1971 Model 19-3, no more dry firing for me!

And in 2021 it’s still relevant (to me as I look at a 34-1) and keeps people from posting “use the search function you revolver noob!”

And yet we still don’t have a definitive answer . . .

__________________
Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

been using it forever

terry