Model 36 needs help

[gr8whyt]

I have a model 36 no dash I bought a year ago. Serial # J231729.
I love this little square butt J frame with it's little 3" barrel.

Problem is whenever I pick it up all I can see is the cosmetic damage. So my question is "should I send it back to S&W for refinishing?". Any thoughts are welcome.

-- gr8whyt

[gr8whyt]

One more pic of the damage.

[murphydog]

Blue loss is bad but pitting is forever . It's a relatively new and common gun so if the cost is not an issue I'd have no problems having the factory redo it. Good luck in your decision.

[jimmyj]

Fords in Crystal River,Florida

[CelticSire]

If all you can see is the damage, chances are you're never going to be happy with it. Refinish it, keep it, shoot the heck out of it. Life is too short to not be happy.

[NovaJoe]

We are all different. I would carry and use as-is.

[gr8whyt]

Thanks for the input. Pretty much unanimous...all say get it done. S&W would be a little cheaper than Ford's but quality of work will be important also. I want a nice deep blue, although a shiny nickle finish would look fine also. Seems like a good winter project.

-- gr8whyt

[ABPOS]

I don't know if I would care but who knows. I call them battle scars, and that's not necessarily a bad thing. But I'm sure it would look real nice refinished too.

[jb28]

I would leave it as is and shoot it. All I see is honest use and holster wear. Guns are made to use.

[two-bit cowboy]

Welcome aboard from Wyoming.

Step away from that Chiefs! Don't touch it! More importantly, don't let anybody else "touch" it.

It got the way it is because somebody (or several somebodies) used it for its intended purpose.

Relish that, and continue the theme.

You might call the baby ugly, but that doesn't mean you can't love the baby.

Here are two I rescued, and I "love" 'em a lot. They simply wouldn't be the same if somebody removed all the battle scars.

My two bits.

[longaction]

I would leave it as is.

[Watchdog]

Originally Posted by two-bit cowboy

Here are two I rescued, and I "love" 'em a lot. They simply wouldn't be the same if somebody removed all the battle scars.

That's the one I like!! Reminds me of one I had but regretfully sold.

[Watchdog]

Welcome to the forum.

I would not have that gun refinished. It's perfect for everyday use just as it is. Its appearance will not affect its performance. Stick it in an inexpensive holster and you're ready to go.

If you want a pretty gun, there are lots more 3-inch 36s out there.

[Mrnurse]

For a carry gun I wouldn't fool with it....wipe it down.... BUT it would bug me after a while... so 100000000000% send to Fords...fair price for high quality work like smith USE to do. I would NOT send to SW.

[MetalMan]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I tend to agree with the above.....

If this Model 36 is to be a CCW/EDC piece and the mechanicals all check out OK, then leave it as is and practice, practice, practice.....I see nothing wrong with the cosmetics as it lends “character”.

If you want a “pretty” safe queen that will find itself transported in cushioned comfort on the occasional trip to the range, then send it to Ford’s for the refinish.

P.S. - this will carry quite nicely in a Milt Sparks VMII.

[flagman1776]

I'm on the fence with your question about refinishing. While not a 'new' gun, your no dash 35 is a gun from an earlier time. It is most likely holster wear from an unlined holster. If you carry it, it will likely get some blueing loss (especially muzzle) as my pristine M19 did (despite a premium lined holster) when I carried it briefly until I could obtain a M66. I think I'd rub it down good with a preservative or even wax & wait 6 months before deciding how you'll use if.
My M36-1 (round butt) is a good shooter, you'll like it.

[2K7]

Originally Posted by ABPOS

I don't know if I would care but who knows. I call them battle scars, and that's not necessarily a bad thing. But I'm sure it would look real nice refinished too.

And we all know what "scars" are! They are like tattoos but with a better story!

[Rudi]

I'd leave it as is, it has been there and done that.

[Bumpus13]

It’s your gun.

If you want a better looking finish, get the work done. It sounds like you do.

You’re the one who is going to live with it. Not me or anyone else here. It’s your decision. Enjoy that Roscoe.

[alwslate]

So it has a bit of honest wear. The finish isn't really that bad and in no
way will it affect the gun's performance. No way would I have it
refinished if it was mine. I have a 2" 10-5 RB that looks far worse but it
is as tight as a new gun. I bought it twenty some yrs ago at a gun show
for $125 OTD. I like it as is and wonder about it's history when I look
at it. It will never be refinished as long as I own it.

[Jtown]

Leave it alone it is perfect for CC. If you get it refinished you probably will not want to carry it as the finish is to perfect.
Walt

[Green Frog]

I'm curious... although other respondents have mentioned "honest wear." I have to ask, "What the heck happened to that poor little gun?" Did somebody throw it out of a fast moving car and onto the pavement? Was it dropped in a cement mixer? Did it happen prior to your acquisition of it, or during your ownership?

The story would determine what I did with it, but right now it's a good shooter and you have your choice of keeping it an ugly gun that is what it is, or spending nearly half the gun's value on a refinish, only to have a gun that is worth little more than it is now.

If and only if you are planning on keeping the gun for a long time and if and only if you just can't abide the lack of finish, then by all means have it refinished at the factory, otherwise I suggest keeping it as is and shooting it or selling it as is and buying a nicer one if that would make you happier. This is my free advice based on personal opinion and experience, and is worth almost exactly what you are paying me for it!

Regards,
Froggie

[gr8whyt]

I really appreciate all the great advice. Thanks to all posters. Special thanks to two-bit cowboy for teaching me I have a Chief's Special and it has inspired me to do a little research on mine. And I've learned it was probably made in 1974. And most of the wear it shows is probably normal wear from every-day carry in a holster (thanks flagman1776) one side of muzzle, one side of cylinder, trigger guard. Lots to think about.

-- gr8whyt

[H Richard]

The gun will never be a "collectable" piece. The damage evidently bugs you badly. If it were mine, I would polish deep scratches and rough finish, then apply Brownells Oxpho cold bluing. You can build up the blue deeper and deeper by multiple applications. You are going to continue to carry it, it will get more dings and scratches, just make it a little more presentable.

[Green Frog]

gr8whyt, generally holster wear removes blue smoothly, leaving slick, shiny steel behind. It may be my screen, but it would appear that the trigger guard and on the cylinder especially have been subjected to some rough grinding type action. It would be possible to polish out the marks (if they aren't too deep) and then reblue. As I stated earlier, this would not be a cheap process if done to "proper" standards, but since the damage has been done, you still have the option of enjoying it as-is or now (or at some time in the future) doing a reblue. I will probably not win any support from the purists here, but IMHO that gun is new enough and common enough that it wouldn't hurt the value to just have it lightly polished in its worst areas and reblued locally. This would be a lot less expensive than a restoration grade reblue and would still be appropriate since this was and is a utility grade gun and you want it for its usefulness, not as a collectible or investment.

Bottom line: You have a really neat little revolver that you like a lot and that you seem to really enjoy shooting. Don't get too hung up comparing it with the fancy high end collectibles that, truth to tell, don't give their owners a bit more real enjoyment than yours gives you. My most carried guns tend to have similar checkered pasts.

Regards,
Froggie

PS H Richard beat me to it... if you want to DIY, Brownell's Oxpho-Blue or similar products work well, or if you can find a local gunsmith that does hot bluing, that would be a little more durable.

[notsofast]

I have no perfect condition revolvers, that being said some are so nice I would be pretty aggrevated if I scratched one. The noticeably finish damaged couple I do have I appreciate them for what they are and seem to oil and rub them down more than the others.

[two-bit cowboy]

gr8whyt,

I agree with your assessment of its vintage. Your photos lead me to believe its a tapered barrel -- just a bit less usual than the same era's Model 36-1 with a Heavy Barrel, which started in 1967.

Have fun with your research, but use caution. You can get sucked into a deep, dark hole when you start learning about Chiefs.

[gr8whyt]

two-bit cowboy, how would I measure my Chief's for a tapered barrel? Thanks.

-- gr8whyt

[s&wchad]

Originally Posted by gr8whyt

two-bit cowboy, how would I measure my Chief's for a tapered barrel? Thanks.

-- gr8whyt

No measuring required, it’s a standard (tapered) 3” barrel. S&W used a different revision level on the Chief’s Special when they had heavy barrels (slightly different frame contour at top front). You described it as a “36 no-dash” and a heavy barrel Chief’s Special of that era would be a 36-1.

[ken158]

I would look at a creakote finish. Cheaper then a factory refinish and certainly cheaper then Fords.

[RMFnLA]

Try some cold blue touch-up.

It won't be perfect but it might be enough to let you sleep at night.

[two-bit cowboy]

Originally Posted by gr8whyt

how would I measure my Chief's for a tapered barrel? Thanks.

As s&wchad said, no measurement required.

Visually, (other than the 36/36-1 distinction) the heavy barrel has a thicker barrel -- really obvious when compared from the muzzle. Also, if you look at the two variations from the top the difference is plain. Your rib tapers from the frame to the muzzle; the rib on the heavy barrel is parallel all along the barrel from frame to muzzle.

[gr8whyt]

Thanks two-bit cowboy and s&wchad. I measured the barrel at the front of the frame and near the muzzle with a digital caliper. It's about .612" at the frame and about .530" near the muzzle. You guys are good. I'm a raw newbie. So please forgive my lack of knowledge.

-- gr8whyt

[two-bit cowboy]

Originally Posted by gr8whyt

You guys are good. I'm a raw newbie. So please forgive my lack of knowledge.

None of us was born with it. We've all been where you are.

Enjoy the ride. It's great fun.

[hittman77]

Buy it's twin mint unfired with box and keep it to fondle and admire.

Shoot this one.

[Bob L]

Leave it alone and just enjoy it. No worries about getting a scratch and you can shoot it all you want.

[Waveski]

I'm with the Green Amphibian---

The term "Honest Wear" is open to interpretation I guess ... Your Chief does not fit my definition of Honest Wear , more like Lousy Care. Those sharp abrasions would be more than I could bear , and this coming for a "keep it original" guy. Someone was just plain careless in how they handled that neat little 3" J frame.

That said , I'd try buffing w/ Flitz , by hand and possibly with a cloth wheel on a dremel. There are those who say NEVER use a dremel , but I given the condition of your 36 I'd do it. Take a look at my own 3" J frame - once dull bead blasted and with a (stupid IMO) laser etched "LADYSMITH" inscription ... doesn't look so bad. Oxpho Blue is worth a try once you've polished out the awful scratches.

I understand the argument of once reblued too nice to carry , but I might make an exception in the case of your gun. Again , my opinion.

If you decide on professional reblue I would not turn to S&W. The modern chemicals (GREEN!) they are using are for the birds. There are several great options available ; let me know if you would like a referral. From what I hear Ford's has become hit and miss.

$0.02 worth given.

Another penney's worth - I added an image of my 113 year old revolver which shows honest Honest Wear...

[gr8whyt]

PM sent.

-- gr8whyt

Originally Posted by Waveski

I'm with the Green Amphibian---

The term "Honest Wear" is open to interpretation I guess ... Your Chief does not fit my definition of Honest Wear , more like Lousy Care. Those sharp abrasions would be more than I could bear , and this coming for a "keep it original" guy. Someone was just plain careless in how they handled that neat little 3" J frame.

That said , I'd try buffing w/ Flitz , by hand and possibly with a cloth wheel on a dremel. There are those who say NEVER use a dremel , but I given the condition of your 36 I'd do it. Take a look at my own 3" J frame - once dull bead blasted and with a (stupid IMO) laser etched "LADYSMITH" inscription ... doesn't look so bad. Oxpho Blue is worth a try once you've polished out the awful scratches.

I understand the argument of once reblued too nice to carry , but I might make an exception in the case of your gun. Again , my opinion.

If you decide on professional reblue I would not turn to S&W. The modern chemicals (GREEN!) they are using are for the birds. There are several great options available ; let me know if you would like a referral. From what I hear Ford's has become hit and miss.

$0.02 worth given.

Another penney's worth - I added an image of my 113 year old revolver which shows honest Honest Wear...

[mm93]

I guess I'd take a different approach on this Model 36. Considering they're not tough to find in good condition, I'd probably look for a nice one and once found, I'd sell this one to defer some of the cost of a nicer 36.
Replacing it with a better condition gun will solve the issue, and end up with an original condition gun. Plus it will end up costing you less money than refinishing the one you have.
So in the end you'd own an original unrestored gun, and save money.