Decieded to re-finish some seedy looking grips.I have previously used Min Wax Polyurethane with nice results,as it stands up very well in the cold and weather.I would like to hear what the Pros favor.I have two sets of N targets that have the old finish completly removed with 400.
Should I clean them with thiner first, or just a tack cloth? What do you favor,tung oil,Tru Oil or one of the Gun stock oils? Any opinion would be greatly appreciated,Thanks Charlie

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Charlie

depends on how much sheen or gloss you want the finish to have when complete. I've used simple linseed oil several times and have been pleased with the results of each, but that was the finish I was after, just a basic rubbed oil finish.

This is going to be a very useful thread. I have always used Tru-Oil, and I have been very happy with it, but I know almost nothing about refinishing and just bungle along. Heaven looks after fools and drunks - I am not sure how many ways I qualify.

I look forward to the replies, particularly VM's.

I would go with the tru-oil.

Real tung oil is a pain in the rear to work with.

Opinions vary. Most of us consider anyone using polyurethane to be a hack. Try getting it off some time. Most of the professional furniture makers use tung oil. I've used different oil finishes over the yeas, primarily because it was what I could find in a hurry. I don't see any real differences between the oils. Some have drying agents, some don't.

But it also depends on why you're refinishing them and what the use will be in the future. For a tackle box or glove compartment gun, it just doesn't matter.

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Dick Burg

I recently made a block to hold my frequently needed tools handy on my bench. I glued together 3 1/2" slabs of wood, with Walnut on top, (scraps laying around). I decided to use Tung oil, and put 4 coats on it per the instructions, and still didn't have much of a finish. I prefer Tru-oil.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Another vote for Tru-oil

Does anyone have a link to a how-to site on using oil finishes? I've recently ordered a set of unfinished grips for one of my guns. I have plenty of experience with various paints and finishes, but I've never used tung oil or tru oil.

-S

Another vote for Tru-oil. This can be bought at most gun shops and the instructions are on the bottle. Several coats should be applied, with light buffing with 000 steel wool between coats. I use my index finger to apply the oil and rub lightly until it starts to get tacky. Mistakes and fingerprints can be buffed out with the steel wool and the oil re-applied. Clean-up with mineral spirits. The finish is very glossy.

As far as stripping the original finish, not much experience. Maybe someone can chime in. I remember some threads referring to an acetone bath?

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Inconsistently consistent

I agree 100%. I have been refinishing gun stocks sense the early 70's. Do like above and you will have a finish that will last. Remember, Tru-Oil is a gun stock finish. It does what it is ment to do.

Have a good one!!!

TLG

Tung oil will do a glossy finish also, depending on how well the wood was prepared prior to finishing. I put 10 coats on my Mauser stock, hand-rubbed, and steel-wooled between coats. It was too glossy after the last coat dried so I used the steel wool again.

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VIVERE MILITARE EST

+ Tru-Oil . It is second to none when you need to touch up scuffs from normal use . Like when your horse tries to go home without you and thinks he would be more comfortable if he rolled over and scraped the saddle and scabbard off his back . I wasn't whispering .

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Idaho , Elmer and Milt

Formby's tung oil comes in satin or gloss, is easy to apply and leaves a beautiful finish. 0000 steel wool between coats.

IMO, Tru-oil is the way to go.

Most folks who say they use linseed or tung oil really don't, even though they may not realize it. What they are using is usually some combo of one of these oils and and drying agent/hardener -- which is essentially what Tru-Oil is. Some folks will vehemently disagree, and claim that they use 100% boiled linseed oil -- what they don't know is that "boiled linseed" is a term for linseed plus a drying agent! Real Tung or linseed oil are horrible to use and never, ever fully dry.

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Pisgah

Tru-Oil is more forgiving in use than plain linseed or tung oil for the reasons that pisgah states. It has been formulated with dryers and other agents,,probably varnishes and such (I'm certainly so chemist) to get it to dry completely and rather quickly. You can make it look like most any type of finish you want with some practice.
Sometimes high humidity will give problems with drying it though.

You can rub all you want with linseed and all kinds of turp and wax concoctions but never really put a strong waterproof finish on the wood. It can be made to look nice,,, but won't hold up for much.
Plus heavy coats of linseed will darken to almost black over the years as it oxidizes. American Walnut is especially prone to that.
It's decent as a light top coating for low gloss and looks over a strong finish underneath. Makes people feel good about rubbing in that linseed for hours for some reason.

TruOil is quick drying and the solids added to it make for a finish that is glossy and can be built up heavily,,if that's what you want.
Most all the Tung Oil finishes pre mixed on the market are of similar concoction. They use a very small portion of Tung oil in their formulation where finishes like TruOil use a small amt of linseed oil.

True tung oil is a penetrating oil though it will dry quicker than linseed which isn't saying much. Raw linseed can sit for almost ever and never really dry/oxidize.
Boiled linseed (chemical dryers added) does actually dry but takes a while too and is about as far from water proof as you can get.

The US Military went to Tung Oil in about '41 for their M1 stock finish (dip process). A change from the previously used linseed. The linseed oil produced alot of smoke on the M1 during sustained fire as it softened up from the heat.

Drying agents used to be heavy metal compounds like lead in Japan Drier but, like wheel weights and fishing sinkers,, that has all been banned now. I don't know what they use now but they still call it Japan Drier.

I haven't used TruOil in years but when I did I always found that the smallest container I could find was the best. Once it was opened, the remaining contents wouldn't last too awful long before they'd harden over in the bottle.

LinSpeed was another similar product. Don't know if they still make that stuff but they used to sell that in tiny little containers. Just right for putting a very light rubbed out coat over a sanded in finish on a stock. Just enough to give a mellow glow to it. None ever wasted in those little containers. One would be enough for several stocks.

Along with Tru-Oil,Birchwood Casey makes "Stock Sheen & Conditioner".When used as directed ,it takes of the high shine off and leaves a satin finish.

I always use a chemical stripper to remove the old finish first. This includes in the checkering, using an old toothbrush to get the wood completely bare. Rinse with acetone or mineral spirits. I sand only where and when absolutely necessary. Then, I apply some Watco Danish Oil, natural color. It penetrates the grain very well and seals it. I brush this into the checkering too, After 24-36 hours drying time I use Tru-Oil but I thin it with a little mineral spirits first. I apply 4-5 thin coats with my fingertip, buffing lightly with 0000 between coats. I DO NOT use Tru-Oil in the checkering, the Watco Danish Oil will do the job there nicely without clogging up the diamonds. I usually take the final coat of Tru-Oil down to a satin finish.
For the pre-war stocks that originally had an oil finish, the Watco also works very well. After it dries, I use just a little Johnson's Paste Wax, not Tru-Oil. I have had very good results with these methods.

Linseed oil is actually Flax seed oil which is edible, in fact, its very popular with people whom are health consious. They don't actually boil it to make it dry faster but rather add some chemicals. This is why I laugh when I see guys posting that they used "twice boiled" linseed oil. If its not boiled once how is it boiled twice? anyone care to comment.

Tung oil is made from a nut. Besides being used as a wood finish, it was also used for many years to pot printed circuit boards. If you have ever taken an electronic device apart and noticed a soft waxy coating on the circuit board or certain components, chances are it was tung oil.

Another thread that had some info on stripping grips:

Refinishing Grips?

I like the Watco Danish Oil. I don't know for sure what kind of oil this is, but I've had good results with it. If you let it dry to tack stage and rub it down, you get a nice satin gloss finish that I find very attractive. It is also very forgiving, since you just continue to flood the surface with the oil until it won't take any more, then let it dry to tack and wipe off. It penetrates the surface and seems to offer pretty good protection.

Birchwood Casey's web site has good re-finishing instructions. In the past I have used Linspeed Oil (linseed oil forumlated with solvents/dryers) and found that it does not really ever dry. A .22 rifle stock re-finished in the late 60s gets tacky on hot days where the grain was open and required a lot of finish coats to fill it.

I have used Tru-oil on this thumb rest stock:


The finish is dry and tough. I kept the checkering covered with painters tape until the final coat. If I wanted a satin finish I would have lightly hit the final coat with 0000 steel wool and put a wax on top of it. As others have said you can make Tru-oil finish look anywhere from satin to near a Polyurethane finish.

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Revolver luvin' Mountaineer

Tru-oil mostly. Sometimes I use teak oil.
DW

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"NUTS"

When I read a thread like this, I find the need to post this handy link.

Popular Woodworking Magazine

Just so ya'll know what you're dealing with!

D R

Good info from DR, thanks

I have never refinished grips but one of my favorite furniture finishes for a durable yet thin finish, that can be built up like an oil finish, is BLO, mineral spirits, and gloss poly in a 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 ratio. Not the most traditional way but it builds up nicely and it is water resistance without the plastic look of poly solo.

Regarding the tung and linseed oils, aren't these the type of finishes that require one to reapply a finish when it gets dry? Wouldn't you want a poly finish on your wood, isn't this what prevents wood from drying and cracking? Just wondering.