This past Friday I again was haunting the local Pawn Shop and I spied the butt of what looked to be a S&W behind a sign hanging over the hook for the gun. I asked the clerk what was that behind the card and he pulled out a rough S&W Mod 36. Said the poor thing was shoved into a holster and put into a drawer and forgot about. They tried to clean up, but is was pitiful and too make things worse, I have been looking for just this same model for awhile, but the price for one kept backing me off. Seems like everyone else has the same idea, great carry gun! Anyhow, I smoked her over, locked up tight, crisp break on trigger and the bore looked as if shoot very little. Now the bartering started: hey you know this is in poor shape, what is the least you will take? Walked out w/f $275.00, felt that even though it looked rough, mech. it was perfect. The local Gun Shop sells them in fair condition f/$600.00. Now you understand why I went ahead and bought the ugly duckling. Got out the 0000 steel wool and spent about 6 hours working on to include a complete cleaning of the bore/cylinder. Now here is where I need some help. I fully understand that having this done takes away from the collector value, but I purchased to carry, so that is not a issue too me. What I want to know is, what is the best finish to re-do this puppy in. I am leaning heavily toward parkerization, but I am open to suggestions. Also, what can I expect to spend ($) to do this operation. This would be the first time I have ever had a pistol refinished. Thanks for the help.RH

Attached Images

S&W Mod 36 .38 Special 001.jpg (96.1 KB, 587 views)

This is just my opinion, but if I was planning on carrying it anyway and making it a "working" gun I'd leave it as is. The finish is already damaged so if it gets scuffed up some more, so what? Especially if it shoots well, I think you've got a good carry piece there.

It might just be the picture but the hammer looks a little "short", maybe the tip is broke off?

If you do want to smooth out the finish, parkerizing is probably the cheapest way to go. And that's what you want on this gun.

Revolvers like these are good project guns. Nothing wrong with doing what you want on this and you'll have a one-of-a-kind carry piece that you worked out.

Refinish it, find a set of stocks that fit, get a good leather holster and you be set for a carry gun for many years.

GF

Not a bad deal at all. I too say leave it as is. Looks fine for a carry gun. I picked up a Model 36-7 last week for $400. In much better shape then yours but I was happy. Picked up a Model 60 this past weekend for $475. I excellent shape with box and papers. I checked out a local gun shop after the show and they had a poor looking Model 60 for $399. They J Frames are a popular little gun for sure.

I kinda like the parkerizing and you could probably have it done for less than $100 as there is no polishing to be done.
Here is a pre 40 Centennial that was parkerized when I bought it and it fits my bill perfectly.

Depends on where you are and in what conditions you will be carrying it. I probably wouldn't have it refinished, unless I had to scrape the "red" off of it everytime I went outside.

Here on the balmy Texas Gulf Coast, the temperature and humidity are high for eight months of the year. But if you are like me and go from your air conditioned house to your air conditioned car to your air conditioned office, you can get by with darned near no finish.

But if I have to spend half an hour outside in the heat, then rust can be an issue. Up until the stainless steel guns and the later high-tech finishes, nickel was the most common solution down here. To me, it is still a good answer to the problem, but that is probably a minority position. It has also gotten difficult to find someone to do a proper plated finish.

FWIW, I would have bought that baby and never looked back.

Charles

Check out Brownells. They have some very good products for the DIY. They even have several how to videos. Go to this site and it will get you started. Don

Brownells Search : Gunsmith Tools & Supplies : Metal Coloring & Coating - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

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"Don't worry be happy"

Nice deal. The cylinder latch was also replaced somewhere along the line.

I have searched and searched to find one with the latch like the one on mine, and I believe you are right. I have not found any w/this latch. Thanks for the tip.RH

If I had it, I would park it.....it's a good look on a gun like that....

Alot of great tips from everyone. In response about the hammer, no parts missing, but does seem to be short as you described, don't know if this was replaced @ some point along w/as was pointed out the cylinder latch, which I am sure now was swapped. As for finish, talked to a fella today who has convinced me to have the Blackguard coating, the same process that Para is using on their 1911's. Said was hard as it comes and does not wear off. Said the parkerized finish would work, but the Blackguard was tougher and longer lasting. Looked @ one done this way and she was slick. I have a set of faux ivory grips, alum Tyler T -Grip, and a Safari Land leather holster to carry in. The holster is lined and got it for a song. I also want the guy who was S&W trained and certified to tune up and maybe he can find me the correct latch. Thanks for all the help guys. I will take to him tomarrow, and as soon as I get it back, I will post photos. $150.00 f/finish and tune-up. After seeing the finish I was sold, looked factory! RH

That looks like a good find to me. I saw a model 36 w/ 3" barrel at a gun show this weekend for $500. Be sure to post a pic or two of the refinish job; I'm on the hunt for a 36 for a b.u.g.

Update: took this little jewel in the rough to our local Gun Smith that also refinishes, not all do this, but send them off. He looked her over from tip to tip, pointed out some issues I had not noticed. I personally know the guy and if he says it needs attention, then you pay attention and go w/his rec's. He informed me that as was pointed out, the hammer had not been replaced, but bobbed off, the cylinder latch was not original to gun, but would still work just like the one that did come on it. The gun had been dropped and the trigger guard had a slight bend up-ward, will try to get back into proper shape, will dis-assemble the complete gun, polish all internal works/tune up. Showed me that the forcing cone had a slight problem, he said he would correct to the proper head space/gap so cylinder would not rub it anymore. Gun will be bead blasted and finished in Matt Dark Blue-coat. I also will install f/the ole school look and function, a Tyler T-grip along w/faux ivory grips. Once I get it back and all the extras put on I will post finished photo's of the 36. He said I had got a great deal and after the completion of the finish/tune-up, she would be a excellent carry gun. Oh the amount f/all this $100.00, I left the shop w/a BIG GRIN, the last price I got was $225.00 just for the finish and no tune-up/corrections from the BIG DEALER in Charlotte!RH

I'd check with one of the refinishing outfits like Fords and find out what they have to offer. Parkerizing works, obviously, but it's definitely not pretty. If you're going to pay $100+ for Parkerizing, why not throw in an extra c-note and get it reblued?

I am not getting it parkerized, but it is being finished in Matt Blue Duracoat. Is tougher than the parkerization and is guaranteed to last way longer. I also have several areas needing attention from the pistol being dropped! And to this a complete tune-up. Now f/$100.00 I think this is a pretty great deal. I admit I do know the guy and I am sure he is giving me a break because a tune-up/polish of the works is around $75.00, the guy is S&W Trained and certified. Around here this is the guy you take a Smith too short of sending to the factory, and some have said his work is as good as what you get from the factory shop! This is the 1st time I have used him on a S&W, but I am sure I will be well pleased. Now I will admit when I get this one back, I have a poor looking S&W .32 he will get next and that one I do want parkerizedRH

I'm back. Picked her up today from the Smith and I have a BIG GRIN after getting this gem back. He pretty much went thru the whole gun, re-worked a few areas, polished the works inside, bead blasted and Flat Blued. The ol gal looks great and I am as happy as a Hog in mudd. RH

Attached Images

	Mod 36 re-blu 002.jpg (80.3 KB, 248 views)
	S&W Mod 36 .38 Special 001.jpg (102.9 KB, 227 views)

Oh forgot to tell ya this, the fella that did all the work said he had a set of Stag Horn slabs f/her. Said he had had them f/a loooong time, since I was so happy w/his work, I tried to tip and He said that what He had charged was enough, U do not hear that everyday. Price f/Stags $25.00, the least I have been able to find f/a set was $125.00 used. These will make the ole gal sing. I plan on taking him my .32 next.RH

Don't you just feel great when your plans all work out for you. Good luck with your M-36.

Very nice! You be sure and take lots of business to that gunsmith. He's a keeper!

p.s. Be sure to take some some pics with the stags and ivories...

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Centennial Every Day

RH, your gunsmith did a great job. What brand of holster is that in your finished job picture? I have been looking for one like that for my Model 60? Thanks!

Got off of eBay, Safariland #540 J Frame RH, velvet lined. Hard to find around here, but as always keep checking w/eBay and all things will be available if you look long enough. I am hoping to hear from the Smith about the Stag Grips. I purchased the Tyler T-Grip and a set of faux Ivory grips for the Model 36 from eBay as well. Thanks for the interest.RH

As soon as I get them, I will post.RH

Very nice rescue and a great carry gun.

You done good.