hey everybody, so the cylinder on my model 36 seems to get stuck in 2 places, i dont know all the terminology so ill call them "cylinder holes" (if someone can tell me the proper term id appreciate it) when i try and swing open the cylinder. it turns fine when i pull the trigger or hammer, the problem is when opening it it gets stuck and requires a bit more strength to get it out.. and i just want to know why its doing that.. it opens fine on the 3 other "cylinder holes"..

so do yall have any idea why my cylinder is getting stuck?

Ejector rod coming loose?

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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

Chambers or charge holes is the term. Agree with checking for a loose ejector rod (it turns left to tighten), and under the extractor star for unburnt powder or crud that would force the extractor rearward and make for difficult opening.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Since it opens fine on some chambers and not the others sounds like a bent ejector rod or deformation of the front ejector rod end at the knurled part. It may be a combination of the two like a 28-2 I have. I was able to eliminate some of the sticking by filing the end of the rod flat and reshaping the hole some with a drill bit in a Dremel. It's still not right and I need to replace the rod. Can you feel a heavier trigger pull on some chambers? If so I'd bet on the ejector rod as the problem.

Don's guess sounds slightly more likely, but be sure you check for the other two first, before doing anything drastic!

thanks for the help everybody i really do appreciate it... so do yall think a new ejector rod would most likely fix my problem? could i order this part off the internet or through a gun store? i just tried searching online and cant find any sites..

Midway USA and Brownells have a good selection and supply of parts but before ordering an ejectior rod try this. When it hangs up look to see if you can see the cylinder gap by looking at the revolver from the side with a strong light. There should be a slight gap between the end of the cylinder and the forcing cone which is the part of the barrel the bullet enters that you should be able to measure with a .006" feeler gauge. If you don't see a gap on the cylinders that hang up pull the cylinder back toward the rear of the gun. If the gap appears you have a condition known as endshake which is excessive play of the cylinder on it's spindle which is called the yoke. I have had this condition cause some older K frames to be hard to open but still rotate OK. Cylinders with endshake usually exibit some binding when fired and I doubt it is your problem but it would not hurt to check it out.

Here you go, 1 blue extractor rod for the model 36.

SMITH & WESSON : EXTRACTOR ROD, 2" BARREL, BLUE - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

and one for a nickle pated model 36.

SMITH & WESSON : EXTRACTOR ROD, 2" BARREL, NICKEL - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

Now a few notes.

One, the thread for the extractor rod was changed from a standard Right Hand thread to a Left Hand thread, I believe in 1959 but don't hold me to that, I'm not great with dates. The serial number of your gun can narrow down the date of production so you can make sure that your particular model 36 has a Left Hand thread. If it's an earlier gun with a Right Hand thread, you will probably have to post a notice in the Wanted to Buy sub-forum because they are long out of production.

Two, they are not difficult to change out but getting the thread started can be a bit fussy. If the extractor rod starts to bind within one to one and a half turns, DO NOT force it because you have it cross threaded. What I have found works best is to turn the rod in the unscrew direction while pushing it against the extractor star. At some point you will feel a very slight "click" as the male thread drops past the starting point of the female thread. When you feel this "click" it will then thread in freely with light finger pressure. BTW, it does take some time to get a feel for this, on my first attempt it took me at least 45 minutes. Half that time was spent figuring out about reversing the direction until I felt it "click" in. Now, it's almost automatic and takes me less than 30 seconds.

Third, you have to protect the pins that locate the extractor star in the cylinder by using empty fired casings. Take 5 empty casings and load them into the cylinder when breaking the threads loose or tightening the extractor rod down. BTW, you want fired casings because that are swelled to the diameter of the chambers and provide a tighter fit.

Fourth, an old worn out leather belt folded over the knurling and pinched between pliers will permit you do loosen or tighten the extractor rod without any risk of maring the knurling.

Fifth, DO NOT use locktite on the threads, it will just create an absolute nighmare if you ever have to remove the extractor rod. These use VERY fine pitch thread and will not work loose when properly tightened.

Sixth, it is a very fine pitch thread and it can be stripped if you try and tighten it too much. What I have done is to use my hand to hold the cylinder with my left hand and use how hard I squeeze the cylinder with this hand to create a torque limiting device. It took a bit of trial and error to determine how hard to squeeze (range trips) and what I have found to work is about equalt to a somewhat firm handshake but not one that would cause pain in the person receiving that handshake. Take the cylinder in had with a firm grip and let it slip and that should be tight enough. However, if you find that it shoots loose, use a somewhat firmer grip nest time you tighten it up. If you work up to the point where it won't shoot loose, you won't risk strippng the threads. Point is, it doesn't have to be stupid tight, just tight enough.

Seventh and most IMPORTANT. Remember that it any gun made in the last 50 years it's a LEFT HAND THREAD. So when you go to remove that extractor rod keep it in mind that you have to turn it in the opposite direction as most common screws. If you forget about this, it will mean purchasing a new extractor star in addition to the rod and a trip to the gunsmith to have that extractor star fitted and timed to your revolver.

To see if your extractor rod is bent open the cylinder and spin it. If the extractor rod is bent it will be obvious as you watch the end of it turn. A little bit of movement is OK.