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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 03-29-2011, 01:23 AM
SRSC_02 SRSC_02 is offline
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Default New to me m66-1. Have a few questions

Picked this up for $400, it's used but seems to be in acceptable condition, but needs some work IMO(Was it a good deal?). I do have some questions since this is my first wheel gun...

1) I would definitely like to re-do the brush finish on the gun, but not exactly sure if the original finish was in a swirl pattern or straight up and down. If I decide to just do a up & down brush finish or side to side, would it look "not right"?

2) I've noticed while having the cylinder out, it has a lot of back and forth play, you can see the distance it will travel in the second picture. Whenever it's locked up, it has a little play... is this amount of movement picture normal?

3) The third picture shows what I believe is a direct result of the cylinder play, it appears the edge of the barrel has taken somewhat of a beating, is this something I should be worried about?

4) The cover screws on the gun also are a little torn up, is there any way I can get replacements from S&W, or is it something I'm going to have to search around for?

I'm definitely not trying to make this a collectors piece as I do want to shoot & carry it, but I'd like to keep it in the best condition as possible. So that being said, if anyone has any suggestions/concerns based on the pictures, please feel free to let me know!
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File Type: jpg swm66-1.jpg (22.4 KB, 202 views)
File Type: jpg sw_02.jpg (18.5 KB, 179 views)
File Type: jpg sw_03.jpg (19.7 KB, 208 views)

Last edited by SRSC_02; 03-29-2011 at 01:53 AM. Reason: ETA
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:56 AM
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If there is a little play when the pistol is closed and cocked then it is good as some play is normal. I don't know how they made the matt looking finish factory finish or how to redo it yourself and have it look factory done. On my shooter stainless revolvers I polish them with Mothers Mag Polish and that removes the unwanted rubs and marks and actually makes them easier to clean and is also easy to tough up.
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Old 03-29-2011, 12:26 PM
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Congrats! Nice 66 snubby.

You can get a mid grade Scotchbrite pad - not too fine, not too rough - and moving in the direction of the grain of the original finish, remove all the scratches.

If you want you can lightly go over the areas you........sanded....with Mothers Mag polish afterwards.

Just a dab will do ya - unless you want a high polish bright finish. hope this helps! Regards 18DAI.
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:39 PM
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With the cylinder swung out (for loading, etc) a little fore and aft play is normal, but the crane should have no fore and aft play.

I can't see damage in your forcing cone area, perhaps some debris that should be cleaned out.

S&W has screws for your revolver.
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Old 03-29-2011, 05:50 PM
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Here is a closer up picture of the forcing cone damage on the outside edge, it's not much.. but seems like the cylinder caused it. Is it normal for a used revolver?

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Old 03-29-2011, 11:14 PM
m1gunner m1gunner is offline
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That may have happened during reassembly when the crane was out for cleaning. The cylinder shouldn't be able to make contact there once assembled and retaining screw is installed.

If the marks aren't deep gouges with sharp, cut like profiles (stress risers), I wouldn't be concerned.

That isn't the area where those barrels crack, the problem area is @ the 6 o'clock position if the forcing cone.
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:51 PM
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I've touched up the satin finish on a couple of my stainless guns. I used a gray scotch brite pad I got at Lowe's. It seems to have the same grit that is used on the original finish. The original finish seems to go longitudinally down the length of the barrel, the longer areas and the cylinder. The finish on the sideplate seems to go around the recoil shield. Use light strokes and don't swirl around. If you don't like the result, you can just keep trying. You can also shine it up with metal polish if you like that look.

You can take the screws out and sand them down a little to remove some of the burrs and then use the scotch brite pad. I did this and then never used the new screws I ordered from S&W. Of course, you can always just replace the screws.

I think your revolver looks good and you don't have to be paranoid about that first scratch or ding...
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:56 PM
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I have a 66-1 2.5" and it is one of my favorite shooting guns.
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:44 AM
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Thanks for the advice! To order screws from S&W, just call them up? Do they also have a catalog of parts?
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:29 AM
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Buggered sideplate screws are a warning sign of amatuer gunsmithing. Hopefully the previous owner didn't monkey with the action. For parts try Brownells;

Brownells Search : Search Results for "smith wesson sideplate screw" - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

Just as important buy a set of proper screwdrivers;

BROWNELLS : S&W REVOLVER COMBO - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:05 AM
thedane thedane is offline
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To order parts from Smith and Wesson, go to their web site: Smith & Wesson

Then:

Resources
-Customer Service
--View More
---Parts Lists

Determine what parts you want and call them with the part numbers.
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:08 PM
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thedane; thanks!

Can someone tell me what the approx date is on the serial 76k58xx ??
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:06 AM
thedane thedane is offline
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76K58xx should be 1980.
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brownells, m66, scotchbrite, sideplate, sig arms, smith and wesson, snubby


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