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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 02-19-2011, 01:51 PM
440turner 440turner is offline
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Default 66-1 questions

I have just traded my 1911-A1 loaded for a S&W model 66-1with a 6" barrel and have a few questions. I was wondering how old the gun is and if the grips look to be original, the s/n is 100K45_. I feel more than happy with my trade and look forward to shooting it. I can see in the cylinders where there is evidence of shooting 38 rounds but the gun locks up nice and has a nice trigger. I do alot of reloading and look forward to getting started for this gun, any ideas what lead bullet should be sized to for this gun? I know that to answer that properly I need to slug the barrel, but is there a rule of thumb for this caliber? I read somewhere that the 6" barrel length is a little more uncommon than other variations, is this true?
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:55 PM
P&R Fan P&R Fan is offline
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Your revolver has a DOB in 1981.
Those grips are not original, they look like Pachmyers.
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:58 PM
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It looks to be a 1981 shipped gun. I believe the standard bullet dimension is .357 (big surprise, right? ). The standard stocks would have been the wood Targets with the speedloader (bigger) cutout on the left panel.

The 4" version would be the most common by far, but there were many 2 1/2" ones, so I would not be surprised if there are fewer 6" overall.
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Old 02-19-2011, 04:01 PM
440turner 440turner is offline
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The grips are pachmyers, I should have assumed that wood targets came on the gun. Thanks for the DOB around 81', would this gun take K frame grips?
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Old 02-19-2011, 04:04 PM
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I have a 66-2 4" and it will take K frame grips. Great shooters by the way.
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Old 03-05-2011, 09:19 PM
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Default You also want to check round butt vs squarre butt for grips

I just picked up a 66-1 today as well to go with my model 19 in nickel. P&R Fan ...could you look up my s/n for DOB? s/n 43K0***
thx
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:11 PM
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That gun should have come with wooden target grips made from Goncalo Alves. Without actually slugging your barrel, I would start with lead bullets of a .357" diameter. There are some who opt to go with .358", but for the majority of us, it will do nothing other than to cause more leading.

Chief38
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angels-zero View Post
I just picked up a 66-1 today as well to go with my model 19 in nickel. P&R Fan ...could you look up my s/n for DOB? s/n 43K0***
thx
1978/79 per the catalog.
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:43 PM
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Default 66-1

I too picked up a 66-1 today! SN 106K3** Born when? Also there is a number stamped on the arm (crane?) that holds the wheel, what is that? It is 62947, then B19? Is something amiss?
Thanks everyone!

Last edited by mdreb; 03-09-2011 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 440turner View Post
....would this gun take K frame grips?
Yes, it is a K-frame.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:30 PM
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Wow 3 "new" 66's checking in. Very nice gentlemen. Post some pictures when you are able.

mdreb, welcome aboard! You've landed on the best site.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdreb View Post
I too picked up a 66-1 today! SN 106K3** Born when? Also there is a number stamped on the arm (crane?) that holds the wheel, what is that? It is 62947, then B19? Is something amiss?
Thanks everyone!
Oh, the additional numbers other than SN I believe are just internal S&W markings and production type gibberish. Or maybe an elaborate Bingo game with the B19 - (not).
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:51 PM
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Assuming a .357 groove diameter the correct bullet diameter would be Jacketed, .357, cast .358-.359.

Contrary to what chief38 stated, oversize bullets do not contribute to leading, but rather assure a good fit and adequate obturation without depending on the bullet 'bumping" or "slugging" up to fit the barrel. Bullet fit and proper lubricant are the best ways to prevent or reduce leading.

The worst contributors to leading are hard lubricants that are more decorative than functional, bullets too hard for the pressure range they are used in, and undersize bullets that allow gas blow-by to melt material off the bullet. And, these characteristics pretty well describe the majority of commercially available cast bullets.

And, just a little education. Contrary to most writers, Veral Smith, the Cast Boolits forum, etc. The deformation of a bullet under pressure and acceleration is not obturation! This is properly called bumping or slugging as noted above. This deformation/enlargement results in obturation, or sealing, but it is not obturation. You don't have to believe me, look in any good dictionary.

But then, I have only been casting and shooting cast bullets for something over 50 years, what do I know?
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flint Ridge View Post
Oh, the additional numbers other than SN I believe are just internal S&W markings and production type gibberish. Or maybe an elaborate Bingo game with the B19 - (not).
Thanks for the welcome! I did a little more digging about those numbers, internal gibberish definitely.
Looks like I came to the right place, nice site.

I have a couple of other S&W also, a 642-2 and an 18-4.
Hopefully with more to come!
Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-10-2011, 03:06 PM
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Just to set the record straight, many early 66-1s were shipped without the speed loader cut-outs. From my recollection there was no indication on the box labels to indicate any change over to the speed loader cut-out when the transition took place.

Here are pictures of all barrel lengths with the four and six inch 66-1 guns having "football" target grips. All are original NIB as they were shipped from S&W and I'm the original owner. I believe either grips could be considered "correct" but not necessarily as shipped if the firearms history is unknown...

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1911, 642, goncalo, k frame, k-frame, model 19, model 66, round butt, speedloader, transition


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