I recently bought a 14-3 8 3/8" in excellent condition. I then ordered s&w rosewood target grips, wilson combat spring kit, and JM DVD. Planning on polishing engagement surfaces and make this a very nice shooter. I would like to chamfer the cylinder for easier reloads. My question is there any reason why I should not. Will this effect brass life from slight bulging at the chamfer. Have never had a revolver with chamfered cylinder, but seems like a good idea. What angle and how deep do you go. I have machinist background and my dad has a machine shop half mile down the road. So this seems like a very easy and cheap mod. Thanks for any opinions.

Unless you are going to be using speedloaders, I don't see the need. It will not weaken the cylinder if done correctly. I had a lot of revolvers that were done but all were used in competition. Never for just a shooter/plinker.

I fully agree with Geronimo Jim's post.

For speedloaders, the chamfer should only be a few thousandths rounding of the sharp cylinder edge, just enough so it feels smoothly rounded to a finger, not a square edge. The slight cut does not extend down into the chamber. and does not affect brass support.

Some moonclip users cut it more, but you're still not supposed to be cutting a serious funnel. I have seen some real butcher jobs, but overcutting does not help loading.

Brownells sells the tools, but for only one revolver, it is cheaper to pay a smith.

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Science plus Art

I carried a revolver for my first 14 years in LE. I used Bianchi Speed Strips the first few years and then I got some Rogers Speed loaders. And then went to Safariland Speed loaders. As long as I was usin' pointy nose bullets I didn't need to chamfer the cylinders. The first rounds I carried on duty were Super Vel 110 grn .357mag in a Model 19 four inch.
The muzzle flash looked like it came from one of the 16 inch guns on the New Jersey at night.

Rule 303

Thanks, for the help. I may chamfer just a bit and stay with that. I will be shooting wadcutters mostly and think it may help.