older Model 29 has VERY stubborn deposits

[mikero]

I have a Model 29-2 from around 1977 that, apparently, has had quite a bit of .44 Specials without much cleaning. I used the IOSSO cream deposit remover, went over each cylinder bore three times, scrubbed with brushes and patches, worked on it for hours. Still apparently has a lead deposit in each bore, and very difficult, one by one extraction of fired .44 Mag factory new ammo. New cartridges go in easily. Magnum cases fired from the 29, needing manual extraction with real effort, will chamber easily in my Super Blackhawk .44 Mag. There MUST be an easier way to removed accumulated lead in revolver chambers, or should I just spend $35 and take it to my gunsmith? Thanks.

[NE450No2]

If you could find a Lewis Lead Remover...

Or just get a 45 cal bronze brush and some Remclean or J&B Bore Paste.

Wrap a patch around the brush and coat with Remclean or J&B.

[mikero]

Has used the .45 cal brush, but is there one lead removing product that is just the best? Thanks for reply!




QUOTE=NE450No2;135933892]If you could find a Lewis Lead Remover...

Or just get a 45 cal bronze brush and some Remclean or J&B Bore Paste.

Wrap a patch around the brush and coat with Remclean or J&B.[/QUOTE]

[amazingflapjack]

I had a similar problem lately that was discussed over a couple of days. My situation was with a 610 that had had a lot of .40 S&W fired in it, and probably wasn't cleaned properly. I (WE) tried a bunch of stuff, but ultimately what did the trick was taking a large patch slotted end, and folding and threading a piece of fine wet and dry cloth backed sand paper through the slot, protecting the revolver while hoilding it securely, and putting a rod with this set up in a drill, and carefully rotating it back and forth in the charge holes. You don't want a tight fit, just something that will gently contact the bore while you rotate it back and forth. What I ended up with was a backward "S" shaped thing, threaded through, and wrapped around the slotted patch end, that slid fairly easily into the charge hole. Then I would turn on the drill, moving back and forth at moderate speed. I had to do some holes more than once. A good light helps. I could see a very light area of demarkation caused from repeatedly using the shorter ammo. Once that was gone, and there was a nice uniform surface (re-surface) to the bore, I was good to go. I had seen some improvement in a couple trips to the range durring this process, but after this last opperation, the gun worked beautifully. What I ended up with kind of reminded me of the flapper hones we used to use when rebuilding wheel cylinders on automotive brake systems. This worked well for me, the gun was new to me, and the initial trips to the range had be using a mallot to extract spent 10MM cases! Hope it works as well for you. Flapjack.

[mikero]

I purchased a Model 19 some time ago with the same problem, tried the same technique I used to fix tight extraction on it, but it failed miserably on the 29 - but not for lack of effort. Guess I will price out a Lewis Lead Remover, but if my 'smith is cheaper, HE can have all the fun! I only shoot jacketed bullets and I clean 'em like my daddy taught me - after every shooting session. So I will likely be buying it for a one-time use. I NEVER let my guns get anywhere near like this!

[mikero]

Never occurred to me to try your method but sounds reasonable, worth a good try. I think this 29-2 has somewhat tighter cylinder bore holes than my Super Blackhawk. The 29-2 is a tack driver, maybe S&W did the closer tolerances to help make that happen. Thank you for the help!

[H Richard]

One simple way is to take a 44 mag case, and run it up into your 2nd reloading die, the case mouth flaring die. Open it up just enough so the case just barely fits into the chamber, and tap it all the way down to full seated depth. This scrapes the deposits out. May take several insertions to clean it all. For really stubborn deposits, Clymer makes chamber de-leading reamers. I've had one for.357/.38 for 30 years, and it works great. I'm sure they make one for.44's also.

[mikero]

I wondered if I could do something like that but was afraid I would tweak the crane or just get it "too stuck." Maybe the cylinder should be removed if case is hard to pound out? This gun is slick and fairly valuable. WAS for sale in GB, but I took it out before selling, can't be selling expensive guns that need work. Bought from a "friend" from an old job. He knows guns, gun enthusiast and FFL holder for decades. Had to have a S&W Certified 'smith replace the hand, also, was slipping on double action... Some pal, huh? Thanks for advice.

[stevieboy]

It's not lead that's built up in the chambers but carbon deposits. I second the ".45 caliber brush/J & B bore cleaner" approach. Here's what I'd do. First, and before you put any bore cleaner in the chambers, brush them out thoroughly with a .45 cal. brush. Stainless brushes actually work better than bronze brushes for this job because the bronze is so soft that it quickly erodes. You may have to force the brush in. If you can't pull it back and forth, then rotate the brush 20-30 full revolutions per chamber. Then, take a swab that's liberally coated with J & B and swab each chamber. You should renew the J & B on the swab after each chamber. Don't be surprised if your swab quickly turns completely black.

Then rebrush, again using the .45 cal brush. After that's done, swab out each chamber with several patches coated with a good solvent. I like Birchfield Casey Gun Scrubber.

That ought to do it. The oversized brush generally works very well -- until, that is, it gets worn down.

[tops]

I bought a M19 that must have never had anything but .38 Spec. shot in it. I did about the same thing as amazingflapjack. I used a piece of a cleaning rod to hold the brush and put in the drill. I wrapped a patch around the brush and coated it with JB cleaner and run it in each chamber at full speed for 3 or 4 seconds. After doing 6 chambers I replaced the patch and JB and did it aqain. It took a few times but I fixed it. Larry

[wbraswell]

I have a Dan Wesson .357 with this problem, and they have a much lighter ejector rod. I was wondering if anyone has used Sweet's 7.62 on this crud? I know it dissolves copper in nothing flat, and I would be very careful to keep it off the bluing as much as possible and clean any sufaces very well after using it. In fact, I might remove the cylinder from the gun before using it.

[GF]

I have a cleaning rod I cut off and use in a cordless drill. Put your Hoppes on a brush and (in low speed) wrill away on those gummy chambers.

Make sure the drill set in the right direction, it'll unscrew the brush.

GF

[H Richard]

I would remove the cylinder for any of these solutions to be done. If you are unfamiliar, the front side plate screw is the retaining screw for the yoke assembly that holds the cylinder. Remove that screw, open the cylinder, gently slide the entire yoke, and cylinder assembly forward and remove. Once off the frame, slide the cylinder off the yoke assembly. You may have to use a wood or brass dowel to tap out the swagged cases as they will be a tight fit.

[Sportsterguy]

After you have removed the crud with many of the good suggestions already posted treat the bore, cylinders and the rest of the 29 with Militec-1 using their directions. Makes cleanups afterwards a breeze. I swear by the product. Did a few torture tests using my Springer .45 and a Sig 228. Not a single malfunction after 500+ rounds with the .45 and 3k rounds through the 228 using WWW ammo in both.

If you are an AR owner this stuff is really great, but I use it on all of my weapons.

[viceunit]

I have a M19-2 with the same issue, a lifetime of 38 specials.
I tried a Lewis lead remover tool with some effect, but not 100%.
I removed the cylinder and using a stainless bore brush (I don't have a chamber brush) chucked in a cordless drill I ran it through each chamber. Worked like a charm.

[Snapping Twig]

I second flaring an empty case.

For bonus points, give that case a workout with a deburring tool before you flare it. Sharpen the case mouth, make it more efficient.

[yamadeal]

A good soaking with Kroil followed with JB paste will usually lift and remove stubborn deposits and or lead.

[GM4spd]

Should end up looking like this! Pete