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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 04-30-2011, 09:40 PM
owens358 owens358 is offline
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Default 38 S&W special ctg Mod. 64

Could anybody tell me anything about what kinda of frame it is? And can it stand shoot the +p out of it? It has the number J4583 inside the frame and D5814XX on the butt end. Any info. Would be helpful.
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:44 PM
squidsix squidsix is offline
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It's a K-frame. Yes, you can shoot +p out of it. The sights will have been adjusted at the factory for 158 grain bullets, so lighter rounds will shoot low.
Enjoy it. K-frames are God's gift for being a good man.
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:50 PM
owens358 owens358 is offline
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But the one I have has fixed sights. I was just wondering since the barrel was tapered down. Could you tell me how old this gun is? I bought this for my girlfriend and she loves it. I just dont know anything about a S&W.
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Old 04-30-2011, 10:17 PM
squidsix squidsix is offline
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Yes, all 64s have fixed sights. The factory "adjusts" them by clocking the barrel a bit.
Tapered barrel 64s are fairly early in the run of 64s. Someone with a book will come along any minute here and tell you what year.
The most common (by a lot) barrel length was four inches, but I have seen and owned my share of 3" guns, and there are 2" ones all over gunsamerica right now.
Measure from the very front of the cylinder to the tip of the barrel, and then tell us what barrel length.
Also, what dash number? When you open the cylinder it should say "MOD 64-X" where X equals the engineering change.
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Old 04-30-2011, 10:40 PM
owens358 owens358 is offline
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It just has Mod. 64 and it is a 4" barrel. Is this what they are call a square butt?

Last edited by owens358; 04-30-2011 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:33 PM
squidsix squidsix is offline
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Maybe. Take the grips off and look.
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Old 05-01-2011, 02:26 AM
stantheman86 stantheman86 is offline
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Sounds like you have a 4" taper barrel 64

These are getting to be collectible, many S&W collectors are looking for these. I can see prices skyrocketing within 5-10 years for these early 64's.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squidsix View Post
...
Enjoy it. K-frames are God's gift for being a good man.
Can I hear an "AMEN"?!
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:09 AM
larryofcc larryofcc is offline
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I just bought one of the auction M64 2" round butts that were sent to the CDC, Calif. Dept. of Corrections. I chose one that had the pinned bbl. Out here in Utah there is no limit as to the type of concealed weapon we can carry, so I am going to try this gun for that purpose. I have a M60 which is too puny, but I do have a nice Ruger SP100 in 357 that is a fine gun. I am a big guy so I do not have any trouble concealing my favorite, a Sig P220 .45 ACP. I just hope this M64 shoots to point of aim with hot ammo. Big Larry
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Old 05-01-2011, 12:57 PM
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The tapered barrel 4 inch Model 64s were only made in 1970-1973. The D581XXX serial number would indicate 1973.

Hope this helps.

Steve
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Old 05-01-2011, 01:43 PM
owens358 owens358 is offline
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Will it handle the +p shells? Or would this be advisable?
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Old 05-01-2011, 06:26 PM
stantheman86 stantheman86 is offline
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Yes it will handle +P with no problem.

Just my opinion, and worth what you paid for it but since the gun is relatively rare, I would stick with standard .38 for range use, and then maybe a few +P's here and there.......and then keep it loaded with +P for defense. Not that it can't "handle" +P, but hotter ammo will add more "stress" to the gun over time,more forcing cone erosion, more endshake, etc. but I honestly doubt it would matter much unless you fire many 1,000's of rounds of +P through it.

If you are not a collector, you could sell that early 64 for a decent profit, get a later Model 64 Heavy Barrel and have some change left over for ammo and then some. Decent used 64's are about $200-300 for a security trade in, maybe $400 for a nicer one.......the early 64's can go for upwards of $500-600.....Lots of S&W collectors would be glad to have that early 64, and many are probably secretly cringing at the idea of one being used as a shooter. I would say load it with .38's and fire away, if you take care of it, it will last forever.
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Old 05-04-2011, 02:17 PM
owens358 owens358 is offline
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But if anyone else knows anything else I more then happy to listen. Cause anything would be helpful. Thanks for everything.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:43 AM
cowgrl57 cowgrl57 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stantheman86 View Post
Yes it will handle +P with no problem.

Just my opinion, and worth what you paid for it but since the gun is relatively rare, I would stick with standard .38 for range use, and then maybe a few +P's here and there.......and then keep it loaded with +P for defense. Not that it can't "handle" +P, but hotter ammo will add more "stress" to the gun over time,more forcing cone erosion, more endshake, etc. but I honestly doubt it would matter much unless you fire many 1,000's of rounds of +P through it.

If you are not a collector, you could sell that early 64 for a decent profit, get a later Model 64 Heavy Barrel and have some change left over for ammo and then some. Decent used 64's are about $200-300 for a security trade in, maybe $400 for a nicer one.......the early 64's can go for upwards of $500-600.....Lots of S&W collectors would be glad to have that early 64, and many are probably secretly cringing at the idea of one being used as a shooter. I would say load it with .38's and fire away, if you take care of it, it will last forever.
I am new to S&W... and I have a few questions if someone can help me, I have read with interest this thread and I would so appreciate input as things have changed in the past few years and it is now 2013... I just purchased my first gun in 30 years, a S&W 38 special CTG, for personal protection. There is stamped model 64 on one side, with the numbers 99577 and under this looks like an 18 and a sideways s, on the other. On the butt is stamped D525XXX,. It is stainless steel, tapered 4" barrel, seems to be well taken care of with a few nicks here and there, wood handles, square butt with inlaid S&W. Can anyone share what the estimated manufactured date is, the cost of buying one in today's market, and the best ammo for both target and self protection. I have researched alot, but would appreciate your wisdom. I just paid $425 and I am not sure if I got a good price or not, hoping I did. I have attached pictures. Also, I live in a county in CA where I can have ammo shipped to me, but have had no luck in finding any in stock or a manufacturer where they will ship into CA. Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks Trish
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  #15  
Old 04-24-2013, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by cowgrl57 View Post
I am new to S&W... and I have a few questions if someone can help me, I have read with interest this thread and I would so appreciate input as things have changed in the past few years and it is now 2013... I just purchased my first gun in 30 years, a S&W 38 special CTG, for personal protection. There is stamped model 64 on one side, with the numbers 99577 and under this looks like an 18 and a sideways s, on the other. On the butt is stamped D525XXX,. It is stainless steel, tapered 4" barrel, seems to be well taken care of with a few nicks here and there, wood handles, square butt with inlaid S&W. Can anyone share what the estimated manufactured date is, the cost of buying one in today's market, and the best ammo for both target and self protection. I have researched alot, but would appreciate your wisdom. I just paid $425 and I am not sure if I got a good price or not, hoping I did. I have attached pictures. Also, I live in a county in CA where I can have ammo shipped to me, but have had no luck in finding any in stock or a manufacturer where they will ship into CA. Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks Trish
Welcome! Your model 64 is likely from 1973, from the D prefix and number. The other stampings are factory internal codes of various kinds. It is one of the best choices you could have made for a defensive handgun for size/weight, ease of use and adequate power. You got it at a fair price in the current market.

For practice most recommend a 148 grain wadcutter, usually loaded light as it is intended for target use. If you find you are recoil-sensitive, it is also not a bad defense load; there are more powerful ones but you need to be confident that you'll hit your target if necessary. The standard police service load was the 158 grain round-nose lead, but more effective loads in this weight called semi-wadcutters are available. Lastly, there are higher powered loads called +P (for increased pressure); a good one here is the Speer Gold Dot 135 gr but there are many others.

Unfortunately, as you've seen ammo of any kind is very hard to find now. You can watch Midway USA and Brownell's for availability, among other companies. Here is a link to some for sale (this is more defensive than practice ammo):

AMMOMAN.com. 38 Special

Hope this is helpful.
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:58 PM
sac-gunslinger sac-gunslinger is offline
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Can I hear an "AMEN"?!
Amen, and amen!

I used 64's as training guns, seldom cleaned them, carried one of them on occasion where I could not carry a 1911. Always performed flawlessly.

I would regularly have students tell me "the sights are off, it's not hitting the target in the right spot." Of course, it was the gun's fault, their grip was impeccable. Every time I was able to take the gun they were using right out of their hands and put all 6 in the 10 ring at 10 or 15 yards. Each one of the guns performed flawlessly every time. Then stey started listening about grip improvements.
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:05 PM
sac-gunslinger sac-gunslinger is offline
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For practice most recommend a 148 grain wadcutter, usually loaded light as it is intended for target use.
I can also recommend Buffalo Bore's hard-cast 150 grain wadcutter load in 38 Special for regular carry. Exits barrel at about 900 FPS (IIRC). Gives the lowly wadcutter effective punch, especially at short distances.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:45 PM
cowgrl57 cowgrl57 is offline
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Thanks so much for the input Alan - I have managed to obtain a couple of boxes of wadcutter, a box of boxer, and a couple of round head. A friend gave me two loads of hp - but, if I am going to the range to practice my grip/hold and get a feel, really need quite a bit more.

Thanks Bruce - good info, suggestion on gip hold??? Have a great day Trish
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:15 AM
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sac-gunslinger: Glad you brought up this loading. Buffalo Bore's full-charge wadcutter is a re-incarnation of a pre-war load. The old "Pistols-A Modern Encyclopedia" by Henry M. Stebbins (a great book) mentions this load and recommends it for defensive use. I'm glad it has been reproduced. Should be just the ticket for aluminum-frame guns.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:55 PM
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Just keep in mind that BB's hardcast wadcutter is just that, hard, and geneally speaking will not expand but instead will punch through whatever you shoot with it. I used to subscribe to this school of thought for self-defense and & loaded hardcast wadcutters in my carry gun, but have since decided that I still want penetration but with at least some chance of expansion so I switched to a soft lead SWC hollowpoint. I'm not saying that "over-penetration" is bad (it's sure better than under-penetration), but you have to be aware of it.
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