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06-18-2011, 12:23 PM
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Just bought 18-3 with a push off issue - pictures added
Just bought the above. Really dissapointed that I did not notice this until I got home. Scouring the net to find a replacement hammer and trigger but no luck so far and it is going to cost.... will try calling S&W on Monday to see if they have the parts and/or if they can help.
Look those pistols over VERY well before purchasing!
Last edited by neverenoughguns; 06-19-2011 at 02:42 PM.
Reason: Added pictures
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06-18-2011, 12:30 PM
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A new hammer & trigger would probably need to be fitted. It's no more work to redo the ones in the gun, for someone who knows what they are doing, it would take 30 mins to an hour or so, maybe even less, depending on how much stoning it takes. Any gunsmith's nearby?
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06-18-2011, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broker50
A new hammer & trigger would probably need to be fitted. It's no more work to redo the ones in the gun, for someone who knows what they are doing, it would take 30 mins to an hour or so, maybe even less, depending on how much stoning it takes. Any gunsmith's nearby?
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There is one gunsmith nearby that I trust. Am I correct in understanding from the above that it may be possible to re-use the original hammer and trigger if a competent gunsmith were to rework it?
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06-18-2011, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neverenoughguns
There is one gunsmith nearby that I trust. Am I correct in understanding from the above that it may be possible to re-use the original hammer and trigger if a competent gunsmith were to rework it?
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Yes..................
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Sure you did
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06-18-2011, 01:01 PM
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In my experience that is an easy fix using the existing parts as long as the man doing it knows what he is doing.
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06-18-2011, 01:05 PM
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Maybe. If the offender went through the case hardening layer, then no.
I bought a M24-3 that the hammer and trigger had been monkeyed with, and sent it in to S&W to address that issue. Plus anything else they might find. For the work they do and the parts involved, they're pretty reasonable and you can relax.
A Model 18 is worth the effort.
Unfortunately, you are right. Seems like everyone has a set of screwdrivers and feels a need to go in and "improve" guns nowadays. I liked it better when the sideplates had never been off and the lube was all dried out. Maybe they should be welded on.
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06-18-2011, 02:17 PM
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Bat is correct. the hammer and trigger had very shallow case hardening. if you are through the case and into the soft metal getting the correct edge back may be doable but it won't hold or you may have widened the gap to much. there is the possibility that you can spot harden the surface but you have to be careful not to discolor the rest of the trigger. someone who is familiar with smith's can tell you pretty quick.
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06-18-2011, 02:24 PM
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Anyone help with Production #'s for 696- no dash's
Does anyone have any production #'s for 696 NO-DASH's?
Thanks-
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06-18-2011, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neverenoughguns
There is one gunsmith nearby that I trust. Am I correct in understanding from the above that it may be possible to re-use the original hammer and trigger if a competent gunsmith were to rework it?
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The sear & hammer surfaces need to be trued, & it's not difficult to surface harden the small area of the hammer & trigger, if it needs it at all. A competent gunsmith can do the job for you. If you can get it done locally, you will save shipping costs to S&W & back, probably $60.00 or so each way.
Last edited by Broker50; 06-18-2011 at 02:40 PM.
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06-18-2011, 02:44 PM
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Odds are good that if previous stoning has been done the hardening is gone from the trigger, hammer notch, or both.
But installing a new hammer and trigger is not difficult. Usually, all it requires to make the new parts work is to swap the sear from the old hammer in to the new, then install both parts. No "fitting" needed.
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Pisgah
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06-18-2011, 03:00 PM
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You MIGHT get lucky, & both hammer & trigger "drop in" without fitting. Especially since they will probably be MIM parts. I don't believe S&W has forged hammers & triggers available any longer (although I could be wrong about that). Myself, I would repair the parts I have, but that's just one old geezer's opinion.
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06-18-2011, 03:07 PM
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>I don't believe S&W has forged hammers & triggers available any longer
Probably true. But I got my last forged hammer/trigger on Gunbroker for, if I recall, $45 a few months ago. Just checked there, and found a bunch for sale.
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Pisgah
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06-18-2011, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pisgah
>I don't believe S&W has forged hammers & triggers available any longer
Probably true. But I got my last forged hammer/trigger on Gunbroker for, if I recall, $45 a few months ago. Just checked there, and found a bunch for sale.
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That's better than I expected, I thought about $100.00 for both. But I would still expect to do a little fitting.
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06-18-2011, 03:22 PM
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Push off is an easy fix for anyone that has been to the factory armorer's school or may have one of the repair manuals. I think there is a sticky around here somewhere that explains how if you have the proper stone.
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06-18-2011, 04:21 PM
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What is it?
Newbie question; what is "push off" and how do I look for it? My guess would be that you could disengage the hammer by pushing it when it is in the single action cocked position.
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06-18-2011, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barbouka
Newbie question; what is "push off" and how do I look for it? My guess would be that you could disengage the hammer by pushing it when it is in the single action cocked position.
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That is correct. It's usually caused by someone doing "trigger work", & cutting the hammer hook incorrectly so that it cams the SA sear away from the hammer, & out of engagement when the hammer is pushed from the rear. It's a pretty simple fix, & not really all that bad. DA fire is not affected, only SA. Some say it's just part of a Bullseye trigger job, but I do not agree with that thinking.
Last edited by Broker50; 06-18-2011 at 04:31 PM.
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06-19-2011, 02:41 PM
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Pictures added. What do you think?
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