Took my new to me 15-3 nickel revolver out to the range today. I have read on this forum that you should not use hoppes number 9 to a clean nickle revolver. I also have Hoppes elite bore gel and safariland break free CLP. Can I use either one of these? Can you use the Birchwood Casey lead remover & polishing cloth?
Anything elise I should know to care for my revolver?

Nickel finishes are very durable. The nickel plating is harder than bluing and more abrasion resistant.

You should avoid giving dings and knicks from careless handling. Deterioration of the plated finish usuall starts at a break in the plating and can result in underrust and lifting of the plating.

Avoid ammonia-containing cleaning solvents. The ammonia attacks both copper and nickel residue (what Hoppe's #9 was originally formulated to do when bullet jackets were both copper and nickel alloys). This would include the harsh cleaners designed to remove copper fouling.

Any kind of polishing cloth or de-leading wipe will also abrade the plating.

Not to contradict John Traveler, but I have for as long as I can remember used a Birchwood Casey lead remover cloth only on my nickel finish guns with no issue. I have always been told you run a risk using them too much on a blued gun. See photo below of cylinder face on a flat latch Mod 49 Nickel circa 1961 that has been repeatedly and thouroughly cleaned with a lead cloth with no bad effects.

Attached Images

BODYGUARD 49 F.jpg (46.5 KB, 3072 views)

Looks to me like the lead cloth makes the nickel finish look kinda blurry.

In 30+ years of collecting and shooting I have learned, the hard way, that Hoppes #9 is safe on nickel, Provided, you use it the right way. Use it to clean the bore and chambers, use it to clean powder fouling from the outside, but DO NOT let Hoppes stay in contact with nickle finish for more than it takes to clean and wipe down. Take care to completely wipe away and dry all the Hoppes from the nickel finish.
If left in contact with nickle it will produce a milky spot at that point that will have deteriorated the nickle, basically it eats it.
What I do is to clean the bore and chambers, use a lightly soaked patch to wipe off powder fouling, then carefully and thouroughly wipe and dry all the Hoppes from the outside, let the Hoppes sit in the bore/chambers for no more than 15 minutes and completely wipe them dry, repeat if necessary taking care to remove all run off from the finish. When done go over the gun again and make double sure that all the Hoppes is wiped off.
What has happened to me is that excess Hoppes ran out of some overlooked nook in the gun and puddled up on the bottom end of the barrel, unnoticed untill the next day. I found a spot that looked like dry milk there, it eventually polished out (mostly) but was still visible.
Use Hoppes but use it carefully. I now take an air compressor and blow dry the gun after wiping down as best I can, then wipe it down again with a clean dry cloth just to be sure.
RD

__________________
Got a Phd from Hard Knocks U

jhde69, I use Prolix to clean my nickel Smiths. Works fine and is safe for nickel finishes. If your finish needs cleaning, I use Flitz or Mothers Mag Polish to bring back the shine. It takes time, so be patient and do not press hard when rubbing in the Flitz. After a good polishing, I use Renaissance Wax to protect the finish and yes it makes it shine. It may take a little more time to clean and protect a nickel finish, but if you like BLING there is no finish like it. You can become addicted quickly to the shine. Enjoy your nickel Smith.

As far as I can tell somebody used that lead cloth all over my house?!? Oh that's better. Without my readers it looks like that anyway!

JC which do you find, Flitz or MMP, to get the finish to more of a mirror look...you know getting rid of those minute swirls you can see on some older nickel guns? Where is the best place you've found to buy the Mother's Mag Polish? I'm a big believer in Rennaisance - Nickel Blue Wood Whatever...Thanks

PM sent to somethtodo.

I don't know if this helps or not, but it does make me feel a little better about the Hoppes #9. After wiping the whole thing dry and using commpressed air to try to remove any remaining ammonia, I hose the exterior with Rem Oil, and blow dry it one more time. I gives me the idea that the Rem Oil removes any residual ammonia. It may be just a feel good move, and I have not owned many shinny guns for very long, but the finish seems to be holding up very well.

Thanks to all of you for the cleaning info for a nickle revolver.

thay sure look great. I only have 2 nickle revolvers but will be on the look out for a few more. J

Where can I find some BLING?

__________________
Doc Garrett
Dead Man's Doctor

Thanks for all the excellent info on cleaning and maintaining a nickel-plated weapon. is it kosher to use an old cotton Tshirt w/ Flitz to polish the finish? I am new to nickel weapons and like the shiny thangs! Once again, Thanks for an excellent thread!

Absolutely.

I actually just use my finger to put on the flitz polish....very lightly.... then I use a soft cotton cloth, or an old flannel..... wipe it off and either use Flitz WAX or Ren wax to finish.

I believe Renaissance also makes a cleaner as well as the wax... here ya go... you can get it lots of places besides here:

Brownells Search : Search Results for "pre lim" - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

Brownells Search : Search Results for "renaissance wax" - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

I've used a Birchwood Casey lead removing cloth with great success on my nickle Model 19. After many cleanings there is no deterioration to the finish.

Back in 1979 I bought a new Nickeled M10 2" RB Snubbie and shot it quite a bit. I cleaned it every week with Hoppes bore cleaner because I had no idea that it was no good for the Nickel finish. My inherited Nickeled Chief's Special was built in 1952 and my Dad fired ten's of thousand's of rounds through it - enough to completed wear out all the innards (which I have since rebuilt) and cleaned it with Hoppes every time. Both guns have not had any ill effects from the Hoppes. NOW DAYS I DO NOT use, nor would I recommend Hoppes or any other product containing ammonia on Nickeled guns because of all the "negative press", but still I have not personally witnessed any harm related to cleaning Nickeled guns with Hoppes.

Just an observation..........

Chief38

So have I got this correct Mothers Mag Polish is OK on nickel???

Cheers

__________________
N frame fanatic

Just remember that Mothers Mag is abrasive!!! I have a beautiful 6" Python and I polish with Johnson's pastewax after cleaning. Keeps it looking really shiney and after shooting it is so easy to just wipe off the cylinder to remove the black tarnish from powder flash, clean the gun and wax again. My $0.02

I've been a believer in Johnson's Paste wax for ever! That carnuba wax is one of the best natural protective coatings known.

I'm kinda suprised about the "don't use CLP" on a nickel finish comment.

YES. I have PERSONALLY used it to no ill effect and I have a LOT of nickel guns