I have just bought a used S&W revolver, which I was told is a model 35-1. It appears to be in excellent shape. The only wear of the surface is a small area at the handle end of the cylinder opening, and there is a very minor scratch around the cylinder. Otherwise, the surface looks pristine. The last number of the serial number is not easy to read. I used an 8x magnifying glass and found it is 82289. In the attached photo, the last digit appears to be a 6, but it is clearly a 9 when seen under magnification. Here are my questions, and please remember that I am a new gun owner.
1. The right side of the barrel is engraved:
".22 LONG RIFLE CTG". What does CTG stand for?
2. When was this revolver manufactured?
3. Is it OK to use inexpensive ammunition in this revolver?

Any other comments on the condition or the care of this gun would be appreciated.Left Side.with Extra Grips.JPG

Right Side.with Extra Grips.JPG

Right Side of Trigger.with Engraving.JPG

Cylinder Open.showing Serial Number 82289.JPG

Back of Cylinder.JPG

CTG = Cartridge

That always seems to get some people but it just means it takes standard 22LR ammo in any flavor including hyper velocity.

You have a model 35-1, 22/32 Target revolver. I believe your 35-1 was the start of the J frame for this model, and yours is probably early to mid 1960's. Someone else will probably reply and give you a more exact date. It looks to be in very nice condition and has probably seen very little use. You asked if it's ok to shoot inexpensive ammo. Most .22 ammo is inexpensive, which is part of the reason the .22 revolvers are so popular. Just keep it wiped down with a light coat of oil, and clean the bore after shooting sessions. Welcome to the forum by the way!

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Misty

Congrats on your Model 35 and welcome to the forum.

It's in very nice condition. Enjoy it.

Some types of ammo are dirtier than others. That is, they will create more powder fouling than others.

Stay away from the Remington Thunderbolt .22, they are the worst I've seen in a long time.

Best I have found: CCI Mini-Mag and Federal Champion. Minimal fouling and great accuracy.

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Take your time..quickly.

Welcome! That Model 35 is a fine way to start. Congrats.
f.t.

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South Carolina-God's country

Thanks for your comments. I am excited about starting to shoot, but I haven't even bought any ammo yet. The CCI minmag are about $7 per 100, but I was hoping to be able to use ammo I could get for $20 for 500. Thanks to oldafsp for the warning about staying away from Remington Thunderbolt. Last evening, I was pricing ammo at WalMart. Besides the Tunderbolt, the other 3 types of inexpensive ammo they had were: Winchester 555 (36 grain, 1280fps, hollow point, copper plated), Remington 22 Golden Bullet (high velocity), and a basic Federal 550 round value back (36 grain, copper plated hollow point). I have heard several positive comments about the CCI minmags, but I would rather not spend $35 for 500. I would appreciate any feedback on the WalMart ammo. Thanks again!

I use the Federal bulk .22 (550 round box)in my S&W Model 18 and have never had a problem with it. It is also very accurate. I agree with oldafsp. Stay away from the Remington .22 ammo. The stuff I tried had very hard extraction from the cylinder.

Always astounded that so many people are baffled by CTG.

Another vote for the Federal Value Pack -good stuff. Accurate, clean.

Andy

Another vote for the Federal bulk pack for Chinaworld. Ive not had any issues with it and it seems accurate enough. Yep your on the right track.

Ahh, man, you had to go and spoil it on the first post. I was going to tell him "Custom Target Gun" and have a little fun.

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S&W M642-2,
ATI 1911a1, 4.25"

Keep it clean under the extractor star and that will be half the problems from dirty .22's right there. I'm another Federal bulk box user.

The ammunition is certainly important for accuracy and cleanliness so choose wisely. The reason for my reply to your great acquisition is that I personally know of several people here who are actively seeking the Model 35 without any success. I have only seen Three for sale since I learned what they are. You are very fortunate to have obtained one as your first Gun and should be very proud to have obtained such a fine example and welcome to the forum!

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Sam
S&WHF 333 S&WCA 2198

Welcome to the forum and congrats on a great acquisition.

Your gun was made after 1968 based on its features but the serial # you gave doesn't jive. Which part of the gun did you get the # from? Did you leave out a J? Your gun has the Mod 35-1 stamped in the yoke (joint) when the cylinder is swung out. The serial # is on the gun butt.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

CTG explained here...in detail!

I Just Picked Up a CTG!

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RIP Shipmate

I see in his picture he took the assembly number off the crane.
Ed

First of all, thanks for your warm welcome to the forum. It feels like I've joined a family. Also, thanks to Jim (Hondo44) for pointing out that the serial number is on the gun butt and is not the number inside the cylinder area. I took off the large grips and found the serial number: M37950.

On the left side of the butt, the number 82289 is stamped (same as on the cylinder), but there is a stamped mark, like an upside down capital L between the last 8 and the 9.

On the right side of the butt, there are 2 stamped marks: a capital P in a circle, and a capital K in a triangle. There are 2 other series of small marks that appear to be small rectangles in a pattern to the left and the right of the triangle K, in this pattern:
|
_ | | |
| | / \ |
| | | / K \
--------

The actual marks are small rectangles, not just lines, and the triangle has rounded corners.

Sorry if I'm giving too much detail, but I am truly excited about target shooting and about getting this revolver.

Also, I'm somewhat amazed that the small grips fit so well and look and feel better that I thought they would.

Sorry, but my attempt to use text to show what the rectangular marks look like didn't work. I'm attaching a small file that shows about where the marks are located. They vary in size my than my sketch, and some of them have a line horizontally across the middle - almost like an 8.

Attached Images

Marks on Right Side of Gun Butt.JPG (10.5 KB, 36 views)

Me too, and just think--these people know how to text.

James

Nice revolver. I have a Model 18 and found that it does not like lead ammunition at all. The barrel leads up quickly and accuracy goes to hell. Since you can get about 500 rounds of copper plated ammunition for around $25.00, spend the extra dough and get better ammunition.

Stay away from Remington Thunderbird .22LR. The only thing that runs well in is my Ruger 10/22.

Enjoy that fine firearm, I know I enjoy my Model 18.

What brands or types of ammunition are copper plated aluminum? Is that what the Remington 22 Golden Bullet is?

I'm not aware of any copper plated aluminum, I at least was referring to copper plated lead.

When I referred to lead ammunition, I was referring to non copper plated lead ammunition.

I made the error of assuming you knew what I was talking about when I said lead vs. copper.

I go with Federal value pack also, works great in my Model 17-3.To me never has been a dud.
Joe

Gary S - Sorry, I read your reply quickly and misread ammunition as aluminum. My mistake. How can I tell which ammunition is copper plated? Can you give some examples?

I can only tell you how I tell. I look at the box or the ammo and if it's copper colored, it's copper plated or copper washed. Someone else will have to explain the difference between those two because I haven't figure it out yet.

Also, the boxes will tell you if they are copper or lead.

As others have said, you are going to love that revolver.

What's the difference between a Model 35 and a 34 (which I have)?
The thing I like about my .22 spinner is that I can shoot the cheap stuff; it's not bothered by T-bolt.

That serial # puts your gun in the 1971 period.

The 5 digit number on the left side is a factory assembly match # that is also on the inside of the sideplate and on the yoke. It's used to get the parts of the gun back together again when they are separated during production. These have been used from the very earliest at the factory.

The other stampings are inspectors' approval marks as it goes thru various stages of production/inspection. Yet others are code stamps that identify the frame for various things, i.e., to be assembled as a .22 or .32, or as a stainless gun since the stainless guns and carbon steel guns are indistinguishable before bluing and a SS gun would need all SS parts fitted to it.

Thru the years these marks changed quite a bit but current revolvers seem to have more marks than ever before which probably add to production efficiency and accuracy. Bottom line is they aren't important.

P.S. Don't take the comments about the CTG seriously, it's just part of the comaraderie and picking on the Newbies.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Only the barrel length & grip shape.

The Mod 34 22/32 Kit Gun comes w/2" and 4" barrels, rd or sq butt.
The Mod 35 22/32 Target comes only with 6" and sq butt.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Thank you; they really are sweet little guns. I'm very partial to 6-shot .22s; IMO, there's something wrong about 8-10 shot revolvers.
For those who do like them, though, have fun with them often and safely!

I don't mind being picked on as a Newbie. I feel like I'm going to have so much fun, that a little teasing isn't going to discourage me.

I want to ask a question about the 2 sets of grips. When I bought the gun, it had the larger grips installed, and they felt pretty comfortable. When I removed them to see the serial number and tried the smaller grips, I was really surprised that they also felt comfortable. My teenage daughter liked the smaller grips, but I feel that I could probably shoot with either.

What are the advantages of using the larger or smaller grips for target shooting? Is it just comfort?

Welcome to the forum. What you need to do is decide which of those grips (stocks) are the most comfortable. Those are the ones you will want to use. Then box up the other set and send them to me

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John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

When I bought my M34, I also picked up a set of grips that gave the little gun the same feel as a K-frame, so it could stand in for two different sized guns. That might be what the grips you have do also.

Nice .22!! enjoy it....and welcome.

bet you weren't so astounded until after you yourself learned what it meant

I don't recall ever wondering what CTG meant. I am pretty sure I figured it out in about 2/5 of a second the first time I saw it.

Give the guy a break, he's only trying to learn. And i have faith that one day he will be as brilliant as you.

Thanks again for all of your comments. But I've got to ask another question that will show my lack of knowledge. What's the difference between a K frame (mentioned by shep854) and a J frame (mentioned by gunlovingirl) ?

CTG is on there in case you lose the manual. It means Clean This Gun, which should be obvious after shooting .22's Joe

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Wisdom chases me; I'm faster

The k frame is slightly bigger than the j frame.You might want to buy several boxes of various brands of ammunition to start with.Some 22s can be very particular about the ammo they shoot the tightest groups with.

J frame


K frame

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Thanks for the photos Jim (Hondo44) of the J and K frames. My revolver, with the larger grips installed looks like a longer barrel version of your J frame photo. I'm attaching another photo with the small grips installed.

Attached Images

Left Side with Small Grips.2.JPG (67.7 KB, 92 views)

You're welcome. Yes, that's the only difference, mine has the Kit Gun size 4" barrel.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

In a nutshell, a K-frame is the smallest .38 six-shooter S&W makes. The J-Frame is a five-shot in .38.

Regarding your choice of stocks (grips) - how they feel when holding the gun is certainly important, but how they work when shooting is as least as important. I'd guess most people would have a difficult time keeping this gun on target with the smaller service stocks - just not enough wood/metal area to grasp.

Also, it is not so much as issue with a .22, but if you ever move up to a bigger caliber gun with the small stocks it is difficult to maintain a consistent grip with firing, and you may find yourself having to reposition your hold with every shot.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Here's a thought: The only significant difference between the Model 34 and the Model 35 is in bbl length. This is also true of the 22 caliber Model 18 (4") and longer bbl'd Model 17, although different front sights were used.
Were there any other S&Ws that magically assumed another model number with a change in the length of the tube?

Models 14 & 15 but there are so many exceptions it gets very confusing.

Models 30/31 and 32/33 but as much on grip shapes as barrel length.

There's probably another I'm not thinking of right now.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

I buy the Federal 550 bulk pack at WallyWorld and would not shoot Remington rimfire ammo if they gave it to me.