No rules that I'm aware of regarding old posts/thread. I didn't know if you were aware and wanted you to know prices posted may not be current market.
Congrats, it appears your M17 is also 1975.

buddy of mine wants to trade a mint 5 screw pre 18 for my boxed 66-1 snub plus a $100 cash my way. His gun is missing the original grips. Not sure if it is a good deal for me but I would like another 5 screw 18. Here is my 66-1 and my K22 collection

I'm not an expert but I'd have to think on that deal. With $100 added money, it may be a fair swap.
Does the pre-18 come with box, etc?
ETA:
Nice trio of 22's

He is probably getting the better end of the deal but I do want another 5 screw .22

I think value wise it is a fair trade, but it all depends on what you want/need. Do you want/need a 3rd 4" K22? ( I know, "need" has nothing to do with it.)

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I would have to think long and hard about the trade. It may be a fair trade, especially with the money added, but, if you have a Model 18 already, ..... well, I love snubbies and would be hesitant to make the deal.

That said, here is a picture (posted before) and it is certainly a sweet shooter. Gonna have a hard time getting this one from me!

Recently picked this one up. All original with magnas, th and tt as evidenced by the box. Had the targets laying around which completed the package.
Had to pay around 4 times the original price but couldn't happier.

So would a k22 made on 1957 be known as a pre-18 or an 18? Is 18 marked in usual place inside crane?

"Is 18 marked in usual place inside crane?

yep.

'57 and after would be a model numbered revolver.

GF

My opinion is if it says Mod 18 inside, then it is a Model 18 irrespective of when it shipped.

Even if it shipped in 1958 or later but does not have Mod 18 inside, it is still a pre-18.

Only a factory letter will tell you when it shipped since they were not in strict serial number order. No one cared in the 50's.

I bought this Model 18-3 years ago, gun only, no box or paperwork, and it has been a great revolver! I don't think the stocks are original but, I really do not care. It looks great with the dark stocks and shoots very nice!

Hopefully this one qualifies as a "3T's! Ser #k908xx. I have had it awhile and shot plenty out of it. One of my favorites!

Thanks, BillyR

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I obviously misinterpreted the meaning of 3T' in my prior post! Oh well, live and learn, that's why I like this place BillyR

The price of excellent condition Model 18’s are certainly different than when this thread started.

Just figured I'd revive this thread.

I just bought an 18-3. It's hard to tell in the pics, but the box says target hammer and trigger, standard grips. Looks to be 95% or better. Comes with box and paperwork.

Paid $680 delivered to my FFL.

Serial number indicates 1969 or so for manufacture date.

Should have it in by the end of the week.

I'm a narrow/smooth trigger guy, so I'll have to evaluate the trigger when it gets here. Might just have a 'smith put in a smooth one and keep the other in the box.

It'll go well with my Model 15.......

Fun reading this old thread. I also have an 18-3 with 3Ts. Never realized they were uncommon. Bought this one used several years ago and never had it lettered, so I can't swear all the parts are original. It wears Ahrends grips now, but the original grips are in the photo. This revolver is one of my favorite shooters.

My 18-3 came in today!!

Better than I expected. Bluing is Excellent!! Tiny bit of carry wear on the last 1/2 of the barrel. Have to hold it in the light just right to even notice.

The action is SWEET!

No target hammer or trigger. Fine with me. No biggie at all.

Can't wait to get it to the range.........

I'm sorry, I don't think your pics came through. LOL

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Dan
Ps 96 SWCA 2930 SWHF 524

The purpose a lot of us had in the 70s was the M-18 was a lot like the M-15 many police carried then. You could get very used to and skilled shooting the M-15 type but save loads of money in shooting the M-18
.22.

I've been lucky enough to acquire two Model 18's; both with all the trimmings, numbers match, stock matches, box, papers and tools.

Model 18 ND (1958)


Model 18-3 (1974) again with all the trimmings.


both are good shooters but I am a little better with the no dash.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

That's exactly why I bought mine. I have three K frames in 38 or 357. All are fixed sights, but that's not a big difference for this purpose.

Plus, I think it's the perfect revolver for new shooters. Full size, great trigger, very accurate, and next to no recoil. My daughter in law loves shooting it.

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Can open, worms everywhere.

I found a pre-18 advertised on Armslist that ended up being about half a mile from my house. Slightly finished challenged,wearing it's Herrett's Ropers and oh my, what an accurate shooter.

Stu

Seems like a lot of knowledge and experience here on this forum.
Im fairly new but a long, long time S&W fan. Over my many years owning the range I have acquired 19 different models of smith handguns, all revolvers.
I own a like new mod 18 and a low sn # K22 (25723) and a couple of mod 34s with 2" barrels, nickel plated.
My question after looking at the K22 and 18 is what difference is there in those and my mod 34s and in looking, I don't see much difference in them and my "K" Frames.
I also just lucked onto a pair of Mod 27s, 3" and 6" new in the box, never fired for $450 ea.

If I can figure out how to post pics I will do so with ea of these revolvers.
BTW, I had never seen a mod 27 and after getting these two I have to say I have never seen bluing as deep and good as these two guns. I had no idea that Smith ever accomplished bluing of this quality.

UF

Unclefudd, someone better call the police. You stole those revolvers.

Stu
:~)

Mod 27s 3” and 6” new unfired. Guy was asking $550 ea. I told him and he took my offer.
Never seen such deep, beautiful bluing on ANY s&w.
5ED40663-E769-4F01-8ED2-917C0DE5F0DE.jpg

8D5D5102-5FD5-468A-9D52-A80563DAAFC3.jpg

My mod 18-3 pinned barrel. Great shooter and favorite of my grandkids.
E5F06758-923D-4D29-85FA-941300F2A4B2.jpg

I finally found the Model 18-3 that I was looking for,,



BUT, I have a question,,
I purchased a Model 18-7 to hold me over until I could find the older one.

What should I do with the Model 18-7?



Maybe I will put a scope on it,, and make it a plinker





What do recommend I do with the -7,, considering I have the -3 now??

I recently bought a pre-18, made in 1954, at a LGS. It’s a little rough on the outside, but the barrel, and chambers are perfect. The cylinder locks up with almost no movement. The grips are real stag grips which I may replace sometime.

The only problem that I have is a build-up of carbon in the chambers that affects ejecting the empties. Brushing the chambers cleans them, but the build-up soon returns.

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Combat Masterpiece( 5 screw pre-18) and nickel 18(sent back in the 70's and had nickeld)

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S&W Accumulator

I bought mine in Christoff's Hardware, Streator Illinois a long time ago.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Steve

What to do with the 18-7? Since it’s already drilled and tapped from the factory, get yourself a Raptor_ph mount and a Burris FastFire 3. That would be one very fun plinking rig.

Posted years ago in this Zombie thread....... I now have two model 18s

One for looking at with well barked Grashorn Stag grips and one for shooting and carrying in Penn's Woods ....... but still nice enough to be proud of at the range!!!!

A 63 J-frame is a nice "kit gun" but for shooting give me a K-frame.

Older is more sought after. The -1 is an exception because it was only made for a year or so and is rarer.

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No life story has happy end.