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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 05-12-2012, 08:19 AM
iwanna iwanna is offline
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Default Model 27-2 Questions

Hi, all,

While I wait some more for my little .32 Smith to get back from the shop I was lucky enough to pick up a 27-2 from the same store for 341.00 out-the-door. Boy did my eyes bug out when the clerk brought it out from the back room! Yes! Okay! Sure!

Two questions: What's the best way to remove shooting residue from nickel? This baby was put away dirty.

Also, I notice the windage adjustment seems stripped or something. I just bought it yesterday and haven't had a chance to do or try much yet. I'm hoping the problem is very simple. What's the first thing I should try?

I'd estimate the metal is in excellent condition. The gun has been magna-ported, however.

New grips just as soon as I can find them. Looking for factory grips.

I'm usually not one for rubber grips, although I'll admit that they tend to be a functional improvement. These Pachmayrs don't even seem to do that. They seem too narrow. Not very comfortable. I will replace soon.

Last edited by iwanna; 05-12-2012 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:43 AM
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Any gun cleaning solvent should remove residue but don't let it sit on the metal for prolonged exposure as this can be bad for the finish. I wipe my guns down and then wipe them off and dry them immediately.

If the adjustment screw seems stripped it likely is stripped. I don't know if it can be repaired. A new sight assembly can be had for around $50.

The bad news is that the barrel cutting is modification generally detested by most S&W fanciers. It's a killer on the value. A nice set of correct stocks will run $100 and when you add the cost of a new rear sight you realize that maybe the dealer wasn't being all that magnanimous.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:05 AM
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Once you get it cleaned up I'd love to see a $341 27-2 Nickel. Never heard of such a thing.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:08 AM
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So Hoppes would be okay as long as I wipe it off right away? I'm afraid of the copper under the nickel.

Right. I figured, what with the price of '27's being what it is now-a-days, this is probably the only one I'm gonna get. I'll post pix today.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:11 AM
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You bought a great gun at a very good price and it should be an excellent shooter. The magna porting does hurt the resale price and accounts for the price being lower then normal. If the sight screw adjustment screw is stripped that also adds to the price drop.

The revolver should clean up great and add a little wax after cleaning and it will look awesome.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:19 AM
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Yeah, that sight thing. It's always something. I'm not as strong on Smith evaluation as I should be. The sight issue was missed until I got home.

I think it's gonna clean up beautiful and I will find some grips for it.

The magna-port is a huge deal to me, too. I just had to jump on this despite the mod.

The '27 might be my all-time favorite Smith. What a classic.

Can I just take the rear sight apart and see for myself? It's just screwed together, isn't it?

Last edited by iwanna; 05-12-2012 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:32 AM
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Default FIRST PIX

Sorry, very basic. I took these the minute I got home. I'll post more later.

Lots of shooting residue.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:32 AM
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I've never taken a S&W sight apart so someone else will have to answer that. You have indeed bought the best looking S&W revolver made and yes it's a true classic and you will love shooting it.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:35 AM
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I wouldn't go doing anything with the windage screw unless you want to be replacing it. Smith & Wesson made that screw so that if you wanted to change your rear sight blade you HAVE to break that screw, its designed that way. Does the screw just turn and turn with no movement of the sight blade, which might mean that someone has broken that screw internally. I have changed enough of those screws and sight blades to know they are tricky when you first do one, because there is a little screw, and a little plunger plus you need to stake the screw so that it doesn't come back out. If you have not done one, it might be best to have a gunsmith look at it. They are a pain.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:52 AM
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Default skip the Hoppes

Since this is a nickel gun, you should skip the Hoppes #9. I love the stuff - works great and smells better, but if there's any damage to the finish, it can get underneath and attack the copper. For normal cleaning up after shooting my nickel guns, I use Ballistol. For cleaning the finish, I use Mother Mag or Flitz polish, and I use Renaissance wax as a finish. Stay away from the Hoppes, just in case, for the nickel guns.
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:22 AM
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If your sight screw moves easily and the blade stays put, the screw has to be broken. If it just doesn't "click" when you turn it (thus it is really working but feels "stripped') it is because someone assembled it without the spring and plunger that David is referring to. These parts are easily "launched" when being assembled by a duffer and can be a real nuisance to find.

If the screw will not turn at all (at least with reasonable pressure), the nut may be staked without sufficient clearance. Problems 1 and 2 as mentioned above are take-apart-and-repair/replace propositions. Problem 3 can sometimes be remedied by getting a hold of the nut with the appropriate spanner (usually made from a screwdriver) and trying to use opposing pressure on both sides (screwhead and nut) to open up a little clearance. Sometimes that can be done, sometimes not. If not, you have to take it apart and repair it by installing a new screw and nut. This is not a tough job, but it does require careful work. If you are not particularly handy, you might look around for an S&W armorer and let them take care of it.

I don't know where you would find a replacement Model 27 sight assembly for $50, but that is about 4x what the new screw and nut will cost. If you do look for a new sight assembly, be sure to buy a Model 27 sight (checkered) for your gun, as opposed to one for a 57 or 29 (serrated).
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:30 AM
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If the magnaporting bothers you, Model 27 barrels, even in nickel, are not impossible to find.
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:54 AM
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Oooooo... Either a 6.5" barrel or a 6" with a ramp front sight. Looks like the longer one to me. If so, an added shame it was cut as these are rare.

Despite the problems I would have bought it at that price (after trying to talk him down to $300). But then, I'm a sucker for a 27 and everyone knows it.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:38 PM
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Okay.

I'll leave the sight to the gun smith.

I'll get some Ballistol.

Change the barrel, huh? Maybe a blued one down the line and I could have a semi-pinto.

The barrel measures 6" which is a relief. Hate to see the rare one modified.

The guys at the store know me way too well. I don't even bother to ask for a few bucks off anymore. Smiles turn to frowns and they just say no. Honestly, most of the ones I buy anymore at this store haven't even got a price tag when I pounce on 'em. "Take in anything new today?"
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:02 AM
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The store repaired the sight for no charge and got it back to me the next day. I'm trying to take my time cleaning it up without damaging the remarkably nice finish. I'll post pix when done.
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwanna View Post
The store repaired the sight for no charge and got it back to me the next day. I'm trying to take my time cleaning it up without damaging the remarkably nice finish. I'll post pix when done.
The your already good deal became a steal of a deal.
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:47 PM
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IIRC S&W did not copper plate under their nickel finnish....
JIM................
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:17 AM
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"IIRC S&W did not copper plate under their nickel finnish....
JIM"


Really? The cylinder front has a ton of caked-on shooting residue. What's the best way to remove it? Otherwise, the finish is almost 'ready-to-go'.
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:03 AM
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Don't get too wild with the front of the cylinder. Remember that nickel (the kind you see on the Model 27) is fairly soft and will scratch easily. I use mineral spirits and old toothbrushes to get as much of that stuff off as I can. Do not use any wire brushes of any kind - including bronze. Keep working at it and most of it will come off. It may take a couple days of fiddling with it off and on. I would not "soak" the whole cylinder. (You might get away with this when using mineral spirits, but I still wouldn't do it.)

Once a nickel gun has been fired a few times, the front of the cylinder is never going to look like new, and the finish can certainly be damaged with abusive cleaning.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:21 PM
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I'm gonna try the mineral spirits and old tooth brush.

A dear friend of mine, more experienced with nickel pointed out that what he tries to do is improve without trying for perfection. I see his point. If you push it, you'll go to far and do damage.

Probably why I avoided nickel for years. I used to consider nickel guns too flashy for my taste, and then when I found out about the fragile nature of the finish--well that's probably why I have several now!
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gunsmith, model 27, pinto, renaissance, screwdriver, serrated, smith & wesson, smith and wesson, solvent

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