Hey fellas. Just thought I'd share an auction I just "won"...don't know if it was much of a win though! It's what appears to be a nearly new/unfired 70's vintage Model 12-2 with the dreaded cracked frame (likely due to when the barrel was torqued into the frame, yeah?).

The seller was completely upfront and sold the piece as a "parts" gun, so I put in a bid that I though was reasonable for an excellent condition Airweight Paperweight

I figured $150 shipped wasn't too bad, because it's got to be worth close to that in parts, wouldn't you guys say? I know those thinner Model 12 stocks are somewhat hard to come by and they're in great shape...then there's the hammer, trigger & cylinder. I could probably sell the piece as whole for parts again too?

I know it's probably silly to even ask, but there's probably nothing S&W could do for this gun is there? Maybe some JB Weld or a bandaid It's my understanding that aluminum frames are pretty much a one-shot deal...so S&W probably can't do anything, yeah?


Well, just thought I'd share. Thanks for looking. -Rob

Well, there's someone on eBay who's got a used M12 hammer and trigger they've been trying to sell for $40 each with no bites yet, I think they're on their third or fourth go-around now, so figure the ones you have are likely worth somewhere close to that (your new-looking parts might bring more). The stocks with light wear are probably around $45. I doubt the barrels bring much as these can't really be re-barreled. I have no idea what the cylinder might be worth.

Always sad to see this with those Airweights, especially a nice one like yours.

Edit to add: if you've got another one of these, I'd just keep the parts as spares. Maybe smooth the trigger and bob the hammer to drop in your working gun and save the original parts put away.

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SWHF #448

That's about what I figured on the parts. I think this may just be a grand excuse for me to finally get a snub Model 12...now I'd have all kinds of spare parts

Where is it cracked?

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No life story has happy end.

You can see the crack beneath the barrel shank in his first picture. Out of focus, but visible.

that's too bad. I've got a 2" and a 4" and they are fabulous guns.

Send it in to S&W, they will probably replace the frame with a steel frame. They did it for me with a Model 38 that had no rear sight channel. They sent a Model 38 made up from a new frame and al the old parts.

Heck, for a hundred & fifty bucks you could just put it in the collection to look at and show off. Nobody says you have to shoot it!

Might be worth checking with S&W, they are a
pleasure to shoot. The worst thing they could say is "no".
TACC1

With new welding technology maybe some one could weld it and
refinish the gun for you.

I'm sorry about your cracked frame.

One of the first guns I bought back in the early 1970s was a brand new Model 12. I loved that revolver, but being young and stupid I either sold or traded it for something I "thought" I wanted more.

This past fall my local gun shop acquired a 1974 manufactured Model 12 that had some minor finish problems, but was otherwise in excellent condition.





Ah, for a time machine to return to those good old "Revolver Days"! Back then you could buy holsters that fit K-frame snubs perfectly, without going to a custom holster maker.



The above pictured Galco holster is a well-made, comfortable outside-the-waistband rig, but the holster is made to accomodate a longer barrel.

Nonetheless, my Model 12 is a treasured possession, and a reliable and accurate addition to my collection.

The problem is the barrel would have to removed to weld the frame and then reinstalled, a risky proposition with these aluminum frames. Besides, the cost of a custom TIG welding job + re-anodizing the frame + the initial $150 investment puts the cost of the fixed gun higher than an undamaged original one...at the risk the frame cracks again when the barrel is reinstalled or shortly after upon shooting it.

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SWHF #448

DB nailed it,
Also dont forget the Model 12 has a longer cylinder which Im almost certain effects the forcing cone length in case you consider parting it out or using a Model 10 barrel,

Haha...I thought the same thing. It'd be like having a safe queen that I didn't want to shoot anyways



Thanks for all the input guys. I'll give S&W a call when the gun comes in, but I know it's a long shot.

How about tig-welding the crack without removing the barrel? As long as the steel from the barrel didn't melt into & contaminate the weld, it might work OK. Might not even mess up the finish except for right at the actual weld. If that made it safe to shoot, what the hell?