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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors


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Old 05-04-2014, 01:07 PM
FlyFish FlyFish is offline
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Default Model 25-2 cylinder stop problem

I have a 6" M25-2 in .45 ACP that dates from 1975. It's extremely accurate and fun to shoot and, of the couple of dozen S&W revolvers I own, would probably be that last I'd part with if things ever came to that.

If the action is cycled slowly, either SA with the hammer or DA with the trigger, there are times when the cylinder stop will retract fully into the frame but then immediately pop back up before the cylinder has really started to rotate, engaging the notch it just withdrew from and jamming things up. Does anyone have any thoughts on a diagnosis and cure? I'm comfortable taking the sideplate off (haven't as yet on this gun) and doing a few slightly more invasive things, but have never done a detailed disassembly. Thanks.
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:16 PM
ken158 ken158 is offline
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If you are comfortable in removing the side plate, give the cylinder stop area a good cleaning and be sure the spring is setting properly. If this does not help, your carry up is early and can be repaired by an armorer.
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:33 PM
USBP SW USBP SW is offline
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Either the front of the trigger or, more likely, the trigger contact point of the cylinder stop is short. In either case, if you are not familiar with fitting a cylinder stop, I would recommend a gunsmith or the factory for the repair.

Take care, Steve
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:08 AM
FlyFish FlyFish is offline
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Thanks very much for the advice. I think I'll start by pulling the sideplate and cleaning since I know I can do that and it doesn't cost anything. I looked at the discussion on fitting a new cylinder stop in the Kuhnhausen book (maybe should have done that first) and it certainly is behaving as though the bevel point on the stop is too short, which means a replacement will be necessary. Not the sort of thing I feel comfortable with myself - one of these days I'm going to find a beat up old handejector and learn how to strip everything and get it all back into place and working, but this is not the gun I want to practice on.
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Old 05-05-2014, 03:22 PM
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Wise choices, good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Take care, Steve
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:39 PM
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It is a common and pretty simple fix. You might check around some of the larger police departments and see if they have a Smith armorer that would be willing to fix it for you. It would probably have to be an old guy. :-).
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:05 PM
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Well, I thought I'd report back. I pulled the sideplate and there was no obvious gunk or debris in the area of the cylinder stop, so I did what I often do when stumped, which is to wiggle things around a bit and apply a small drop of light oil. I reassembled everything assuming I'd have to find someone to replace the cylinder stop only to find, miracle of miracles, that I am now unable to duplicate the problem - the cylinder stop is behaving as it should and timing seems to be just fine otherwise. I don't yet know if it's fixed long-term, of course, but for the moment at least all is well.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:18 PM
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You probably "oil flushed" a piece of grit from the contact points. Good for you and enjoy the 25-2.

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Old 10-16-2020, 02:20 AM
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Guess it’s a strange coincidence. A neighbor had a similar problem with his S&W Victory model. We pulled the side plate and the culprit was a single hair coupled with some old oil that gummed up. I pulled the hair out with tweezers, problem solved. Despite my objections my friend blasted the innards with WD-40.
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Old 10-16-2020, 06:36 AM
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Glad things worked out! The Model 25-2 is too good of a revolver to sit idle. Periodic deep cleaning is a wonderful thing.

Kevin
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Old 10-16-2020, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qmark View Post
Guess itís a strange coincidence. A neighbor had a similar problem with his S&W Victory model. We pulled the side plate and the culprit was a single hair coupled with some old oil that gummed up. I pulled the hair out with tweezers, problem solved. Despite my objections my friend blasted the innards with WD-40.
Advertising is a powerful tool and there are hordes of people who believe that WD-40 is a good lubricant.
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Old 10-16-2020, 09:41 AM
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Just a small piece of grid in the slot the cylinder has to ride on its frame pin or goo in the spring could cause the stop to not quite make it back enough so that the trigger engaged it enough so it moved down long enough to let the cylinder start moving.
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:47 PM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qmark View Post
Guess itís a strange coincidence. A neighbor had a similar problem with his S&W Victory model. We pulled the side plate and the culprit was a single hair coupled with some old oil that gummed up. I pulled the hair out with tweezers, problem solved. Despite my objections my friend blasted the innards with WD-40.
Back when I was a young deputy, 1976-1978, I worked with an even younger deputy. He had a bought a new blue M19 and one night shift we were working in the office. I watched in amazement as he took a can of 3 in 1 oil and literally squirted oil into every opening, top and bottom. When he dry fired, oil came out little geysers! I tried telling him it was too much and his comment was, "If a little is good, a lot is better." He was more used to greasing up his daddy's bulldozers and front end loaders, I guess.
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Last edited by Muley Gil; 10-16-2020 at 01:52 PM.
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