Hello all,

Have a K38 14-4 which I really like but cannot get comfortable with my grip. I shoot one handed for Bullseye but switching to two hands doesn't help much, it feels crowded around the stock.

I am using the smallest grip reportedly - the Pachymar Small Presentation grip. With my trigger finger close - I use the crook of the finger and will not compromise that - I don't feel like I have the butt firmly enough. If I seat the butt firmly the reach to the trigger feels too long.

I'm wondering about the Hogue with finger grooves or one of the custom makers who could make a narrow grip with finger grooves.

Don't want to give up on the pistol for Bullseye use yet so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

I can't tell much from your post but the BK Grip Adapter at bkgrips.com might help. He's a member here and I've used his product before.

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

I know at least 2 people who say:

"Magnas with a Tyler T-grip are the most comfortable and practical on a K-frame revolver."

Good luck with your Bullseye!

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Be Well

I have small hands as well, and am really uncomfortable with the standard K or N frame target stocks (although for some reason, the targets on my Mdl 24 seem to fit OK, but not those on my K or L frames).

Two ideas: 1) contact Herrett stocks and ask about their Roper grip Roper Gun Stock.

It's designed specifically for smaller hands, and when you order it, you'll be asked to trace your hand so the grip will fit you specifically. I ordered one for a K/L frame and couldn't be happier.

Second, you could grind down a set of target grips. This thread N frame grip question poses a question about a seemingly stock square butt grip, but the thread consensus was that it was altered. There are several photos by various posters who've done the same.

I though it was a terrific idea, grabbed a pair of beater target grips that had chips and scratches, so started grinding and sanding away. There's certainly enough wood in the originals, especially in the front and bottom.

The result was a nice altered grip that fits my hand well, and I put it on my 586. When I shot it, it almost rolled similar to my SAA and the recoil with my .357 thumper loads was much easier to handle.

It's no Herrett Roper grip, but it was a little cheaper!

I have another beater set of grips that I might try to convert into a set of finger groove grips when I feel ambitious enough. Although I'm not sure that my woodworking skills are up to that task, nonetheless, that set of grips is also headed to the sander if only to grind away the superfluous wood.

If you are handy, you might be able to modify a pair to fit your hand much better. The pair shown on a N Frame Mod 24 were originally much larger Rb to Sb conversion grips, with finger grooves. I took aprox 1/4" off the base, then filed/sanded the finger grooves off. It was trial and error, remove a little then test fit, and repeat. I started with a set of rosewood grips from Kelly's in Texas. They are impregnated wood, and no finish was used.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Thanks so much for the ideas. I can tell you that my skills are such my finished product would never look as good as yours H Richard.

Perhaps I should look to buy a set of used Hogues with finger grooves and get out the sandpaper.

BTW, what grit would you start out with - med, fine?

Try a set of these. They are pretty thin to begin with and the start filing/sanding on them. I have small hands and the feel pretty good to me.

Hogue Monogrip Grips S&W K L-Frame Square Butt Nylon Black

And it's a cheap way to start.

220 grit should give you a good start. If you really want to remove material faster, maybe 100 grit. But remember, all the deep scratches from the 100 will need to be removed before you finish up. Down to about 400 and then either polish or finish with a grey Scotchbrite pad.

I tried magnas with BK grip adapter. did not like it. I gave the adapter to my shooting buddy to try on 1 of his guns. He gave it back. It is sitting somewhere now. Bob

Well, I won't say the magna and Tyler set-up are the most comfortable and practical on a K-frame, but in my hand they are the best compromise I've found between maintaining an absolutely minimal profile while having enough real estate to keep good hold under recoil.

Might be perfect for what the OP describes...

I should never (haha!) speak in "absolutes"...like my wifey always (haha!) does.

How about, "one of the most comfortable and practical"?

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Be Well

I believe all Pachmayr Presentation grips have a covered backstrap. As you noted if you have small hands you need to have thin stocks with fingergrooves, and (I think) with an exposed backstrap.

Also, if you require using the first joint of your index finger for trigger control, having extra material on the backstrap makes the reach that much farther. Good luck in your search.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Small handed shooter here that has had good luck with Ahrends.

Which style?

I can't use the Presentation Pachmayr either, but the Pro Gripper with exposed backstrap and flat sides works for me.

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Science plus Art

+1 on this. It is about perfect for the K frame IMHO.

Either Retro Combat or Retro Target

Ahrends round butt smooth grips are nice for small hands.

Here is a picture of them on my 242Ti (L frame):

Thanks so much guys. Good thought about the the backstrap cover making for a longer reach, thus it's elimination potentially being a good thing. But, maybe I need a grip with less difference in size between the butt and mid-grip - see below - not necessarily thinner all around?

Yesterday my (new to me) N frame M1955 25-2 just came back from the Smiths who installed a weaver rail . Oddly the larger N frame with Small Pachymar presentation grips actually feels more natural to hold than the K frame. Very strange. Maybe because with the N frame it doesn't feel like I need to grip the butt as firmly and can have my fingers next to each other higher up the grip in a more natural position? Proportion difference vs pure size difference ???

I'm thinking of wrapping a little tape around the mid grip of the K frame to see if it's a proprtion thing. Definitely not running out and buying expensive custom grips initially!

We're rowing the same boat. I shoot indoor .22 Leagues with K 22s. It’s either thumb cock for rapid fire or use the first joint of your trigger finger for leverage DA. The best advise you’re gotten so far is to get stocks that do not cover the back strap. That’s basic but what’s been left out is you need good friction or checkering. While ugly, rubber Hogues work very well if their finger groove placement doesn’t bother you too much. I’m sure that for every stock with finger grooves there is a shooter who’s hand fits them perfectly. I’ve just never met one of those shooters. If you are willing to pay the price Hogue will make you a pair of checkered wood stocks without the finger grooves. Before spending that much I would first form an opinion of Hogue’s general shape by using an inexpensive used rubber Hogue. I suggest trying a set of Herrett’s Shooting Stars. They are about $30 used. All the ones I’ve seen have been checkered walnut with no finger grooves. Of all the stocks I’ve used they have the least wood over the side plate to reach around with your trigger finger. Their diameter at the butt is barely any larger than what your second finger wraps around.

You didn’t say whether your 14-4 has a target trigger but if it does a narrower trigger will increase your leverage DA more than a better stock design. I prefer the standard .265” trigger that was factory equipment in millions of model 10s but the slightly wider smooth combat triggers are also good.

This is not on a revolver, but does show what fitting a grip to your hand cam look like over time. This is a .22 RF IZH 35M Target pistol that I use in indoor competition. The grips are actually original, but with varying amounts of bondo applied and then sanded down to fit. Originally I did have some "Form a Grip", which is a two solution putty that dries to a rock hardness, but slowly enough that you can put a rubber glove on and squeeze your hand around the grip which will dry with your imprint on it. This is a work in progress, and currently fits pretty well.






It isn't pretty, but when I get to the point I am satisfied I will paint them.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Assuming your gun is square butt, try a pair of Magna grips. Should be able to find some in the Classifieds on this forum?
Steve

K22fan thanks so much, you are really there with your information.

I intended to shoot SA for Bullseye and do have the target trigger.

I seem to like a low profile slab grip on my 1911's so your suggestion sounds close to that for the revolver.

HRichard, your work in progress makes a lot of sense also. May I ask what does that heel of the hand plate do?

I bought some non-custom target grips for a 1911 that had the heel rest, but could never tell what the purpose was, seemed a distraction for me. I don't use those grips, back to thin slabs. Grip selection is making me nuts

On K/L-frames, I have found the round butt finger groove combats to fit my small hands perfectly, almost like custom fit.

On a square butt K-frame, the boot grips are slightly too small, but may an excellent concealment and secure grip. For a really small hand, I think these would be ideal

I recommend either or both. Ahrend's is top of the line to me.

K-frame (547) with square butt, boot grips on top, L-frame (619) with round butt combat finger grooves on bottom:

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Si vis pacem, para bellum

Those are Ahrends Tacticals.

Hogues should be a cheap expedient fix. You can always grid off the FGs if you don't like them.

One thing you should try is getting the web of your hand up over the top of the backstrap (you may not be able to go far with a target hammer.). That's how Jerry Miculek grips his gun, and it was a revelation to me & my stubby digits. It shortens the reach to the trigger and better controls muzzle flip. For me, at least, it also puts my wrist at an angle that I can lock it better.

Magnas are the worst of all worlds, IMO. They place the three gripping fingers so far back it's harder to reach the trigger and puts even more strain on the trigger finger.

If Magnas and a Tyler are too big, which is not surprising, try the older service grips, which don't come up above the circular cutout, and a Tyler. Also, you might try a J-frame Tyler, although it probably won't make much difference.

Uncle Mike's Sq Butt K Frame boot grip. I wear a size 9 men's glove and this grip fits perfectly to my large palm short finger hands.

I have a set on a S&W Model 14-3.

I have small hands and Smith targets are too big for me. Magnas are OK, but the ugly, utilitarian Hogue Monogrips work the best for me..

For what it's worth, on Ahrends site, the grips on my 619 are on the tactical page, but are referred to as "round butt finger groove". S&W (where I bought them from) refers to them as "finger groove combat grips" and makes no mention of "tactical". For my little 547 up at the top, Ahrends has them on the "retro grips" page and lists them as "concealed carry boot grip (square butt)"

Whatever they may be called, Kim Ahrends makes the best!

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Si vis pacem, para bellum

I'm with H Richard here. Make 'em fit.
In my case, I absolutely hate a round butt on anything bigger than a snubby K-frame. Unfortunately, I have a couple of N-frames and a L-frame that have round butts. Like Richard, I have begun to buy cheap Rd to SQ conversion grips and modify them to fit me and my needs. It does work. I now find myself looking at used grips and thinking about what they could be.
You can find a pair of beater target grips dirt cheap and go to cuttin'. May take some time and some trial and error, but I'll bet you will end up with a set that's perfect for you.

Yep, the ones on the Tactical page are called that, and you have the round butt finger groove option. Ahrends also makes their version of a combat grip and call it that, as part of their retro line-up.

Tacticals and Retro Combats; you have the former. S&W is using the wrong names.

Agreed on Ahrends grips, they're terrific.

Grips (aka Stocks) are highly subjective, and more subtle than seem at first glance. Yes the total overall net effect on trigger reach is key , but there's more to it than the one dimentional distance from the back to the trigger face, the circumfrence and shape is at least as important. And the dynamics of actual shooting can be quite difference than static fondling.

As noted the Gripper Profesional is very square in profile. This pretty much tie you into them being comfortable with only one position in the web of the hand. If that also happens to work for you , great , but if not , no joy in revolverville. The standard Grippers are more oval in profile , but allow for subtle repositioning in the web. Another inexpensive grip not yet mentioned is the Uncle Mike "Combat" grip. *To me* they feel kinda so-so , but they are more forgiving to a variety of hand and finger sizes than any other grip I've used.

For years the feel of Magnas with grip adapter in static fondling left me unimpressed. When I had opportunity to shoot them at length , it became ....interesting . They point naturally. I can shoot them accuratly in DA ( as I do nearly all my shooting). They do twist in the hand in recoil somewhat more than my usual choices , but up thru the level of .38 std P no biggie , and +P still workable.

In recent decades Grip Adapter is nearly synonomus with Tyler. But the Pachymer's with no finger grooves , and small, medimum, and large for each application filled a niche. Sounds to me the OP should try a Pach Small , or just possably a medimum. Of course having been out of production so long they're harder to find.

And the other factor the OP probably doesn't want to hear- The wide trigger is a big part of your issue. A narrow trigger with surface of your preference , or possably a combat specifically in smooth will feel like a different gun to you.

I bought this M14 a while back it had grips that were custom made.

They make a grip very small...

Someone did do a decent job when they did it.

I think of them as prototype combat grips











A round file some sand paper and time to make it fit well.

Thanks for all the replies on this most excellent topic.

That high hand position is what I seek, as close to the bore as possible. BUT, that's where my current grips let me down. When using that favored position it feels like I have no control of the bottom of the stock and the gun can pivot too freely (shooting with 1 hand). With my hand high I don't think I have a solid grasp of the current stock.

Wheelgun that is an excellent custom job.