Hello all, I thought I would put this question out there and pick up on some of the knowledge floating around here. I have a couple (M-13,14,19) in that beautiful deep blueing. What is the best way to clean these. I know I shouldn't use the same stuff I use on my ss guns, but what is the consensus here? I would cry if I did anything to mar the finishes on these.

Thanks,
cherrypointmarine

I use Hoppes #9 and a brass brush to clean the bore/cylinder and give it a good wipe down with a clean cotton cloth (old t-shirt), then use a silicone treated gun cloth to wipe off any fingerprints and then put it away in the safe. I've been using this process for 40 years without issue.

As far as I know, the only problem that arises from commercially-available cleaning solutions comes with using a solvent such as Hoppes #9, which has a copper solvent in its formulation, on a nickel-plated firearm.

Nickel plating will not normally stick to steel, but the nickel plating WILL stick to copper. Luckily, if you like the look, copper will stick to steel. So what they do is plate the firearm first with copper, then plate over that with nickel.

The problem is that there will ALWAYS be some place where the copper is exposed, even if its just an area where the metal has been drilled or machined. If you get a copper solvent in contact with that copper, even if it's just at an exposed edge or at a scratch or something, the solvent will do what it does and dissolve the copper. At that point there is no longer anything for the nickel to stick to, and it will flake off.

My brother used to have a cheap nickel-plated revolver from Brazil - a Rossi, I think - that was nickel plated. Not knowing any better he habitually cleaned it with Hoppes #9. After a while the revolver looked like it had the mange.

I AGREE WITH 824tsv's CHOICE OF MATERIALS AND METHOD. I HAVE ALSO REMOVED THE GRIPS AND CYLINDER FROM DIRTY BLUE GUNS, AND SOAKED THE FRAME AND CYLINDER/CRANE IN A COVERED TUPPERWARE CONTAINER FULL OF HOPPES FOR A WEEK. THE SOLVENT WORKS IT'S MAGIC, AND ELBOW GREASE IS REDUCED. I BLOW THE INNARDS OUT WITH A COMPRESSOR, AND RE-ASSEMBLE. A WIPEDOWN WITH A SILICON RAG COMPLETES THE JOB. ***CAUTION*** DO NOT USE HOPPES ON A NICKEL GUN ! ! ! IT WILL DESTROY THE FINISH………...

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

Thanks for all the help guys!

I find Breakfree CLP does a fine job with all basic cleaning chores on blued guns.

If a little extra work is needed in the bore and charge holes, Hoppes 9 is good and I've had no issues with its residue getting on the rest of the blue before wiping off.

Caveat, though: we're talking older, pre-lock blue. On the modern, lock era blue, S&W advises not using ammoniated cleaners like Hoppes 9 or the finish may be damaged; we have a couple members who report serious damage not heeding this warning.

Been using Hoppe's since the early 80's

I first use a brush to remove large particles of grit rather than a wipe down. This to avoid scratching the blue.

Hoppe's or Break Free for wherever powder, lead, and copper appears..

I then soak the affected areas above with Hoppe's or Break Free.

I use the least invasive or abrasive method to remove the affected areas, as in a toothbrush on the cylinder face before I go to a brass brush.

After all affected areas are cleaned I use toilet paper or a soft cotton rag (cleaning patches work) with a light coat of Break Free on it for a final rubdown.

I then throw away the TP or rag. You will find used guns with miniature swirls in the finish all over, this due to using the same wipe-down rag over and over on the same or many guns.

I quit using silicone treated rags for years because of their propensity to be consistently reused.

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Have guns...will shoot'em.

When I polish my stainless guns to bring back the clean finish using the Simi chrome polish with a soft rag I save the used polish for my blued guns. I apply the used Simi chrome polish very lightly to bring back the luster again from the bluing. It makes the blushing look new again.
I have also removed the light freckling this way too. I tried this on a Swedish mauser first with a dull blued finish. She looks like she did just out of the factory she looks so Purdy now.

For storage I use the spray gun silicone then wrap them in the S&W paper. Every few months I take them out wipe them down, silicone them up, rewrap them and let them grow roots again

I agree with the earlier posts about Hoppe #9. I started a thread about using that on a blued gun. But I was talking about an older gun, 1970's vintage model 17.

Hoppe's #9 and bluing

Hapworth posted a link to the thread from earlier this year warning about the use of Hoppes on NEW S&W's.

Huge mistake with new 57!!

Hope this helps.

I have used nothing ever but FP-10 on my guns. It is kinda like a Breakfree type of CLP lube. They key is before you shoot the gun, put a thin layer around the forcing cone, front of the cylinder, and around the muzzle. Then when you are done shooting, quickly wipe these areas with a rag white the gun is still hot. You will get 95% of it off right then, and then cleaning becomes much easier. Once home, it's just more FP-10 on brushes on nylon brushes and cotton pads on a jag until I get the gun looking new again.





These two guns have been workhorses at the range. The 586 in particular has tens of thousands of rounds through it. Looks like a safe queen in person.

Hoppers #9 will only damage a nickel finish if soaked in it or left on the finish for a prolonged period. Clean it with hoppes and wipe it down thouroughly. Blowing it off and out with compressed air works well-then wipe down well with clean cloth. Give it a good wax with your favorite and store it away. Been cleaning my guns for 30 years this way without an issue.

Good advice on cleaning above, and +1 on adding a non-abrasive wax afterward. Johnson's Paste Wax and (my preference) Renaissance Wax work well; they help protect the finish and make subsequent cleanups easier.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

"Hoppes #9, which has a copper solvent in its formulation, on a nickel-plated firearm"

That's a total myth, but it keeps getting repeated and repeated endlessly. Hoppe's #9 will not damage nickel plating. Just wipe your guns down with bore cleaner or light oil. I wax all mine using Johnson's paste wax. Any good wax will work, even shoe polish. Have used Johnson's for over 30 years.

I clean as much as possible with dry brushes . The way I see it, once you wet everything, the solvent is going to carry that residue to places you may want it.

I also never brush wet. Again, brushes collect residue and by wetting them you're rinsing it out of the brush and into your gun. Solvent is applied with patches only.

Hoppes #9 works fine for me. My most challenging place to clean is between forcing cone and top strap. After bruising it out as best I can with a bronze brush, I wet a long thing patch and work it just like buffing shoes with a cloth.

That & a rubdown with a silicone cloth and I'm good.

I use EEZOX, inside and out, on my 48 yoa 10-5 and it makes that revolver really stand out in a crowd!! Just follow directions on the container.