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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 02-06-2015, 09:19 PM
Irn-Bru Irn-Bru is offline
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Default Got that 27-2 Nickel

I managed to make a deal for this beautiful 27-2 in nickel. After checking it over it looks as close to new as your likely to find. I ended up paying just under five bills plus my 586. I wasn't too bothered trading my 586 as I have two 686's. As much as it might pain the hardcore shooters, this gun will not see the light of day at the range. This is a safe queen for a decade or so.

Place I bought it from has some very fair prices and the owner is a nice guy. Anyway here are some pics, I think the velvet in the box was redone. Check out the original receipt from the 80's













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Old 02-06-2015, 09:26 PM
cbjordan76 cbjordan76 is offline
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Very nice! I agree, safe queen for sure. Love the receipt, Montgomery ward's was a big shopping venue when I was growing up. Congrats on a good score.
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Old 02-06-2015, 09:31 PM
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This is the nicest gun I own by far. I might sell my collection eventually but I'll pass this one down to my son for sure. The old receipt really makes you think about how far the prices have come.
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Old 02-06-2015, 09:45 PM
cbjordan76 cbjordan76 is offline
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This is the nicest gun I own by far. I might sell my collection eventually but I'll pass this one down to my son for sure. The old receipt really makes you think about how far the prices have come.
She's a beauty. Definitely one to pass down. Revolves have really shown us how supply and demand really works. .
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Old 02-06-2015, 09:58 PM
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I have a 27-2 nickel 4" and a fully engraved nickel 27-2 with 8" barell and the original receipt for it was $650 !! I have the receipt. Don't think it could be had for less than $2k these days. They are both in the safe retaining their like new looks! Great find for you! These n frames are what makes owning smiths so special.
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Old 02-06-2015, 10:07 PM
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Anyone got any advice on cleaning nickel revolvers? More interested in what to avoid.
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Old 02-06-2015, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irn-Bru View Post
This is the nicest gun I own by far. I might sell my collection eventually but I'll pass this one down to my son for sure. The old receipt really makes you think about how far the prices have come.
My 5 inch 27-2 is my "never sell" gun. In spite of all else, that gun will go on down my line.
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Old 02-06-2015, 11:31 PM
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Very nice.

The front sight seems a bit different ?
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Old 02-07-2015, 11:27 AM
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Very nice.

The front sight seems a bit different ?
I was thinking the same thing. Looks like a previous owner wanted a "red ramp" style front sight and had a gunsmith create one for him. I like it. The presentation case has been redone. If you want it to look like it did when new, Joe Cebull (a forum member is your man).
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Old 02-07-2015, 11:49 AM
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BEAUTIFUL!!!!!! Nuff Said!
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Old 02-07-2015, 01:28 PM
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Definitely looks like the red ramp was added.
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Old 02-08-2015, 12:42 PM
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Default A pain to the hardcore shooter

To quote the famous Bugs Bunny, OOOOHH AAGGOOOONEY
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Old 02-08-2015, 12:56 PM
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Nice, Bob like! I have a 8 3/8" in nickel and man you know you have a revolver when you whip that one out. As for cleaning nickel use whatever you want for a bore solvent, just don't let it lay on the nickel and wipe it off.
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Old 02-08-2015, 02:11 PM
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No Hoppe's No. 9.
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Old 02-08-2015, 03:18 PM
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Stunning!

Truely stunning!!!!!

Great deal as well.

I'd love to see the other things your seller has for sale.

Last edited by Rpg; 02-08-2015 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 02-08-2015, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Irn-Bru View Post
Anyone got any advice on cleaning nickel revolvers? More interested in what to avoid.
Avoid Hoppe's 9, Flitz and anything that contains ammonia. You might call the smiths at Brownell's to ask specific products (of which there are many). Copper layer under the nickel is the problem.

Nice revolver my friend!
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Old 02-08-2015, 04:34 PM
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I wonder how that insert is held in there...? It's not like a dovetail has been cut. Very nice score.
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Old 02-08-2015, 04:36 PM
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I picked up one in your condition but no box a few years back. I polished the nickel finish using the Simi-Chrome polish. The nickel looks like NIB. It's flawless. Save the used Simi-chrome polish for your dull blued guns.

I picked up a so called nickel finished H&R 22cal revolver. It fooled me as well as the owner too till I started to clean it the yellow nickel color got more silver. The gun went from a 93% nickel to a 98% chrome finish. Most of the flaws were in the dirt covering the chrome finish. I never seen a gun like this unless the yellow finish was dried oil?

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Old 02-08-2015, 04:37 PM
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Ballistol..................


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Old 02-08-2015, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WB5MHA View Post
Avoid Hoppe's 9, Flitz and anything that contains ammonia. You might call the smiths at Brownell's to ask specific products (of which there are many). Copper layer under the nickel is the problem.

Nice revolver my friend!
I'll keep that in mind. I haven't cleaned it yet and will be careful what I use to do it. I'll try and get a clearer picture of the ramp.
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Old 02-08-2015, 05:07 PM
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Default RENAISSANCE Wax Fan

Quote:
Originally Posted by Irn-Bru View Post
Anyone got any advice on cleaning nickel revolvers? More interested in what to avoid.
I just started using Renaissance Wax and everything I read prior to using was spot on. I tried using their PRE LIM product and found it to be more work cleaning it out of the barrel roll and S&W logo than it was worth. The Ren Wax provided exactly what I was looking for being a low sheen, and enhanced the natural beauty of in my case the bluing and SS, can't speak for nickle and left a DRY look that prevented fingerprints appearing after being handled. Expensive but will go a long way and impossible to screw up unless you don't follow the instructions and slather it on. You can apply it with practically anything even a Q tip in the hard to reach areas. Try it you will like it.
P.S. I know there are a lot of Hoppe's #9 fans out there as I am one myself but prior to applying the Ren Wax I tried Frog Lube Degreaser for the simple reason it is a green product and I can use it indoors without any worries. It left a very clean oil free surface to lay the Ren Wax down on, I will be using it again especially in the winter when I am indoors
Attached Images
File Type: jpg S and W Model 15 2 38 Combat Master 002.jpg (71.3 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg S and W Model 15 2 38 Combat Master 006.jpg (78.0 KB, 16 views)

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Old 02-08-2015, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WB5MHA View Post
Avoid Hoppe's 9, Flitz and anything that contains ammonia. You might call the smiths at Brownell's to ask specific products (of which there are many). Copper layer under the nickel is the problem.

Nice revolver my friend!
No copper under the nickel on S&W's, Colt's do. But as some bore solvents can damage even the S&W nickel just don't leave it lay on the nickel, wipe the solvent off and your good to go.
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raylan007 View Post
I just started using Renaissance Wax and everything I read prior to using was spot on. I tried using their PRE LIM product and found it to be more work cleaning it out of the barrel roll and S&W logo than it was worth. The Ren Wax provided exactly what I was looking for being a low sheen, and enhanced the natural beauty of in my case the bluing and SS, can't speak for nickle and left a DRY look that prevented fingerprints appearing after being handled. Expensive but will go a long way and impossible to screw up unless you don't follow the instructions and slather it on. You can apply it with practically anything even a Q tip in the hard to reach areas. Try it you will like it.
P.S. I know there are a lot of Hoppe's #9 fans out there as I am one myself but prior to applying the Ren Wax I tried Frog Lube Degreaser for the simple reason it is a green product and I can use it indoors without any worries. It left a very clean oil free surface to lay the Ren Wax down on, I will be using it again especially in the winter when I am indoors
Agree on Renaissance Wax once you clean it up. Whatever solvents you use should be wiped off completely before applying Ren. I wouldn't store it in the wood display case even though that was probably the way it arrived.

A friend whose entire collection is pristine uses only silicone cloth for wiping off and "gun sock" from Academy or Midway for storage. Sometimes less is more.
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:52 AM
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No copper under the nickel on S&W's, Colt's do. But as some bore solvents can damage even the S&W nickel just don't leave it lay on the nickel, wipe the solvent off and your good to go.
I stand corrected. Thanks.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
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No copper under the nickel on S&W's, Colt's do. But as some bore solvents can damage even the S&W nickel just don't leave it lay on the nickel, wipe the solvent off and your good to go.
Yep, if you remove it, Hoppes #9 won't ruin nickel on a S&W. Just be sure to remove your grips while using it because if it gets under them and stays, it can start messing with the nickel. And if your pistol isn't too fouled, you can use a less harsh cleaner like CLP. Here's a pic of my 5" 27-2, which I bought new in 1974. It has been cleaned extensively with Hoppes #9 for going on 41 years. Since I took this picture, I have taken off the football targets and put some Ahrends on it.


Last edited by muddocktor; 02-09-2015 at 02:34 AM.
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