I own a very nice 19-3 shooter in 95% or better condition. Finish is like new and total round count is under 500 for its lifetime. Range trips with this vintage revolver are rare. Yesterday I did take it out and put 60 rounds through it. All factory loads. Remington 158 gn lrn 38 spec and Federal 158 gn 357 mags.
All was well...
Today I decided to finish off those two boxes of ammo and did 20 more 38s and 20 357s. The last two cylinders full of 357 the trigger pull was excessive and the crane was tough to latch closed. At the end of the session she is really bound up. Can't even cock for single action unless I assist the hand in rotating the cylinder.
Gave her a thorough cleaning, but she is still bound up bad. Crane has to be force shut. Trigger pull is horrendous.
I see no signs of the cylinder dragging on the forcing cone or rear of the cylinder contacting anything. I cleaned under the ejector star well and it shows no signs of contact with the frame. Cylinder spins freely on the crane when open and the trigger/hammer cycle smoothly when crane is open.
Only bound when crane is closed.

Any ideas???

Most likely, un-burned powder grains under the extractor. Use a toothbrush and thoroughly brush the back of the extractor and the extractor recess in the cylinder.

When extracting cases hold the gun muzzle up, always. Helps prevent powder grainf falling behind the extractor.

And Smiths have yokes. Crane is the Colt terminology.

As Alk8944 said , as well as the "gunk ring" at the front of the chambers from shooting .38 in a .357 will prevent the cartridges from seating fully into the chambers.

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John

Possibly your ejector rod is coming unscrewed? It has reverse threads, so lefty tighty righty loosey. Opposite of "normal".

First thing I check on a S&W revolver when they don't work right.

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John

Agree on the ejector rod possibly being loose. Anything more than finger tightening should be done with empties in the cylinder. And 'please' don't cycle it with extreme effort or force the cylinder out; parts will bend with enough applied force. Please let us know what you find out.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Thanks for the input guys. I'll check the ejector rod as soon as I get home. Hope its that simple.

Worst Case Scenario: Split Forcing Cone

Fortunately the forcing cone appears pristine. Unfortunately, the problem doesn't appear to be a quick fix. The ejector rod is tight enough that I can't turn it (tightening or loosening) at all. Under the ejector star is sparkly clean. Still all bound up...
Not sure what to do. Call S&W tomorrow? What is their usual turn around time on repairs? Do they still have parts for vintage guns? I'm very hesitant to send it in.

Use a brush under the star, on the front face of the cylinder and on the forcing cone. I shoot 1000's of lead rounds a year from a tuned PPC revolver. Lead builds up on the front of the cylinder and forcing cone. The cylinder binds up! When you think that you have it clean (all three areas), clean them again. You are describing problems associated with gunk in those areas and possible a ejector rod that is backing out.
I read what you said about the rod being tight, and those areas being clean. I am still betting on a small amount of powder (it only takes a very little to give you grief) behind the star.

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Thugs that comply don’t die!

Now I've really spent some time cleaning this gun. No powder residue anywhere that I can't tell. Cylinder and yoke are still difficult to close and action won't cycle. If I close the cyl very slowly I can feel metal on metal from the rear of the cylinder just before it falls into its detent. Appears the notches in the ejector that engage the hand are dragging against the hand opening in the frame. Small burs are developing on these teeth.
I think she's going in for a check up. Anymore attempts on my part will likely result in further damage. Hand looks funny too. Something is amiss.

One other suggestion, if someone has taken out and replaced the sideplate screws the one farthest forward and low on the frame near the four-line stamping (the yoke retention screw) may have gotten switched. Try backing that one out and see if the cylinder moves freely. If so, try switching the other similar screw (not the one with the flat head that fits under the stock panel) into its place.

The factory will work on any model stamped guns, but be forewarned that certain parts for model 19s (barrels and cylinders, among others) are no longer available.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

You need to completely disassemble the cylinder & yoke assembly. Sounds like there is some leading or other crud between the cylinder & yoke.

I had the same (or very similar) problems with a Model 19-5. I always fire single-action at the range and the binding was so bad that day that I could not even pull the hammer to the rear nor would the cylinder rotate.

I returned home and followed all of the above posted procedures, without success.

I then called a very experienced friend and he diagnosed my problem as being trigger mechanism problems. Before he arrived I bought the Jerry Miculek DVD on "Complete Revolver Disassembly/Reassembly" and went through Jerry's entire spiel several times.

My friend came over, we removed the side plate, and the internals were pretty gummed up and dirty. We cleaned every component thoroughly (I believe that he used Kroil) and he used his India stones to very (very) gently remove several burrs at the key pivot points. He then applied Rem oil at the pivot points, reinstalled the side plate and screws and I was back in business.

Just one old dog's opinions, based on my actual experience!

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That's what we do!

I took the yoke and cylinder off. Cleaned the yoke well. No real build up of any kind. Reassembled and no change. Cyl still won't close correctly. Something has to be bent or misaligned. I'm really concerned now.
Forgot to mention, when the binding started it also started spitting lead. I'm very disappointed. Like I said, this is a nearly pristine shooter. I know the Combat Magnum pitfalls and have avoided hot magnum loads or excessive mag usage. Only 158 gn rounds have ever been used.
Not too happy right now. I've got Rugers with thousands of hand loads through them with no problem and seldom cleanings. This 19 gets babied and only shoots factory loads. Gets cleaned everytime it's fired. Figures...

Sounds like you've tried everything. Time to send it in I guess.
Good luck! I hope that S&W can return it to pristine operating condition.

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Thugs that comply don’t die!

You need to check this first as mentioned in above post. I bought a nice Model 19-3 years ago, one that was all bound up for cheap. Turned out the previous owner had taken the side plate screws out and upon reassembly switched one of them out for the crane/yoke retention screw. It forced the cylinder forward and bound up where the crane screw interfaces the crane. HTH...c good

If no one has suggested it yet, check the ejector rod for true and check the yoke, that it hasn't been bent.

I have a Ruger Security Six that seized up on me in a similar fashion as your S&W. Turned out the ejector rod was ever so slightly bent. It took some searching, but I located a new one and put it in place of the old. Haven't had a problem siince.

After some more failed attempts to free her up, I packaged her up for a return trip to the mother ship. I'm no gunsmith, but I'm assuming the crane/yoke, ejector, or ejector rod is bent somehow. No cowboy wannabe spinning and flipping the cylinder closed stuff either. I'm totally bemused how she got bound up. Hopefully S&W can return her to her former glory. Honestly though, as one of only two Smith's I own, I am somewhat disillusioned with the S&W mystique.

Any updates on this? Just curious what ended up being the problem. Thanks.

That was my thought as well.

Sent the gun to S&W so there should be some news and updates?

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Patriots Forever!!