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09-29-2015, 07:30 PM
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18-4 cases hard to eject
Does anyone know why it's hard to eject cases from my 18-4? Are tight chambers "normal" with model 18s?
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09-29-2015, 07:33 PM
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it happens with some 17s and 18s.A different brand of ammo helps sometimes,if not,a finish reamer will cure it.
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09-29-2015, 08:29 PM
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My 17 and 18-4 too. I can live with it :-)
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09-29-2015, 09:04 PM
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Sometimes just a good cleaning with solvent and a brush will help.
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09-30-2015, 06:04 AM
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My 18-4 has ridiculously tight chambers. I use a short nylon dowel to
chamber rounds as it's too hard on my thumb. There's no excuse for
sending out revolvers like that in my opinion. I can't imagine what
S&W was thinking when they produced those.
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09-30-2015, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alwslate
I can't imagine what
S&W was thinking when they produced those.
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I thought I was the only one. And it's been happening for a long time apparently.
I had a five screw, 22 Combat Masterpiece (a "pre" 18) from either 51 or 53, can't remember which now that had the same problem. I really wanted to love that gun. I lied to myself for a long time and told myself I did love it.
But I couldn't get it to eject a spent case for love nor money. I had to tap on the ejector rod with my Swiss Army knife to eject them.
I tried solvent. I tried brushes. I tried polish. I tried oiling the chamber. I tried leaving them dry as a bone. I tried different ammo.
I finally sold it to a fellow who said he didn't care, he didn't plan to shoot it anyway.
Good luck with yours. The cylinder reamer sounds like the best bet. I suppose I should had had it done to mine, but I had lost my job about that time and didn't mind selling it.
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09-30-2015, 07:33 AM
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The 17-4 I just purchased recently has tight cylinder bores. I thought something was wrong when I first got it. After thorough cleaning, it was still a little snug. But it is very manageable, and upon ejecting, it just takes a little extra pressure on the ejector rod pops them out fine.
If I had to tap on the ejector rod with something to get them out, then that would be another story. Glad to hear this is normal.
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09-30-2015, 08:50 AM
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My M18 has the same problem, always has. I take a copper bristle brush to the range and use it as needed when shooting. It does help some, but this has become a PIA and kind of reduced the shooting fun experience w/this model.
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09-30-2015, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arjay
it happens with some 17s and 18s.A different brand of ammo helps sometimes,if not,a finish reamer will cure it.
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where can you get a reamer and what size? thanks
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09-30-2015, 09:07 AM
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Tight Chambers
I have the same issue with a model 18 and a new 617. When clean the rounds go in and come out fine. After a few rounds they get dirty and start to stick. I carry a .270 size brass brush and a small drill, a short time in each chamber with the spinning brush and back to normal. Would like to try the reamer, but in my case it seems to be more dirt buildup than small size.
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09-30-2015, 09:15 AM
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That's the reason My 17-4 sits in the safe most of the time.
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09-30-2015, 09:15 AM
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Search for the threads on this subject.
Some give instructions for use and size of the reamer, if that is required.
My M18 does not like low velocity, standard velocity or the bulk pack WW or Rem ammo. It does like CCI mini mags and WW Super X.
After shooting a couple of cylinders, try running a mop through each chamber to get the crud out between cleanings.
A friend just had this problem with a Dan Wesson and the change to CCI was all it needed.
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09-30-2015, 09:37 AM
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Seems to be a common problem. I keep a rod and bore brush in my range bag for just this thing, every few cylinders shot I give em a few strokes. My new to me 617-1 for some reason or another is much better than my K-22's, 17's and my 18.
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09-30-2015, 09:48 AM
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I have 3 S&Ws 34,17, 18 and they all used to get tight after a few cylinders of any kind of ammo.
My solution works but its not well liked by some on here.
Chuck cylinder up in a padded vice, and run a brush with automotive valve grinding compound through the bores. Use a separate brush for every or every other hole .(I use .25 cal brushes) Brush is attached to a slow moving drill. Of course a extremely good cleaning is required after your done. Having a air compressor helps the cleaning a lot!
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09-30-2015, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDEYE50
where can you get a reamer and what size? thanks
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I think Brownells has them
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09-30-2015, 09:56 AM
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Pretty much a "me too" post, but I've have the same issue with my 17. When freshly cleaned it's fine, but degrades with firing. After about 6 cylinders of CCI SV, it's unacceptably tight. I've tried a bunch of different standard velocity ammo without joy.
What does work are copper flashed high velocity rounds. It is important to keep the cylinder very clean. Use a 25 caliber bronze brush and some elbow grease. Bore Tech Rimfire Blend is the best solvent I've encountered for de-crudding 22s.
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09-30-2015, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDEYE50
where can you get a reamer and what size? thanks
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Check out this thread
Brownells reamer: 513051220
Brownells Do-drill lubricant: 083007016
If you're even moderately mechanically inclined, don't hesitate to tackle this job. I enjoy shooting my model 18 WAY more now than ever, and I haven't noticed the slightest difference in accuracy by finish reaming the chambers.
Lou
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09-30-2015, 10:20 AM
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I've had three Model 18s and two Model 17s and they all suffered from stuck case syndrome. I sold or traded them all off.
The little Model 63 I had worked like a champ, though.
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09-30-2015, 10:34 AM
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The Standard Finishing Reamer is the cure. I did a K22 Outdoorsman, Mod 17-4, Pre 18 Combat Masterpiece, and a 617-6, all with the same problem. That covers a time span of 75 years, and all had over tight chambers. I also did a 18-4 for a friend that he hadn't shot in 10 years because of this problem. He now just uses his thumb to eject the rounds. Just remember to go slow, use plenty of the oil, (keep a rag below the cylinder in your vice), and never turn the reamer in a reverse direction. While slowly turning, withdraw it several times and wipe clean, "really clean". Watch closely when the shoulder stop reaches the case head recess so it doesn't scrape any metal off. It isn't really necessary, but I re-blue the chambers afterwards with cold blue on a Q-Tip.
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10-02-2015, 05:17 PM
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Very typical problem with these models.
Sometimes different ammo may be slightly smaller and make ejection easier.
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10-04-2015, 12:14 PM
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Experiment with different ammo. That usually solves the problem.
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10-05-2015, 08:43 AM
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Try dry lube ammo before customizing
I've shot a lot of Steel Plates about 15 miles south of Lansing, Mi. with my Model 17-3. I learned that I needed dry lubed 22lrs and that waxed lubed would not seat easily after a dozen plates, nor extract easily. The cylinder on that 17 is still the way God had S&W make them, I could not imagine life without a Model 17. So, like MRRICK says, try different ammo.
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10-06-2015, 01:01 AM
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Very common occurrence with M17's and 18's. Some people ream them, some run a brush through every 50 rounds and some just grin and bare it. I guess Smith likes their 22 chambers very tight. Don't seem to have that problem with my M63 or my Colts but that may be one of the reasons the Smiths are so accurate. Some ammo is tighter than others but after a few cylinders full will stick on a few chambers.
Last edited by chief38; 10-06-2015 at 01:03 AM.
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