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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 01-12-2016, 07:02 PM
agaas4 agaas4 is offline
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Default Current 29-2 value?

Looking at buying a 29-2 blue finish, 8 3/8's barrel with original papers, box, and tools. Fired just a few times and bluing is 99% I checked gunbroker recently sold 29-2's and the sellers asking price of 1,100 seems fair, but I wanted yalls opinions. Also, I found another with the same specs other than slight blemish on cylinder, but in nickel, also for 1,100. Fair prices on both? Thanks
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:19 PM
gmborkovic gmborkovic is offline
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I would stop and look. Wiggle a little bit .Where in SoFo are you? Br. PB 0r MDade?
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:30 PM
agaas4 agaas4 is offline
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Okay. And Martin so just above PB!
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:12 PM
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If I'm selling, $1100 is too little.

If I'm buying, it's too much.

I would offer a grand for either, and be happy with any change back from $1100.
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:19 PM
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I don't know where you will find a 99% example for less. Maybe if you stumble on one in a pawnshop or gunshop run by people who don't know the market. But going that route doesn't guarantee a successful outcome and may take years of diligent searching.

If you like that barrel length, buy one of the two.
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:26 PM
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[fired just a few times]....is the kicker, that keeps it from being 100% which would be around $1300 in my opinion. that said a couple hundred less than that. We really don't know how many a few rounds might be.................M*
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:37 PM
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Yep.
Fair price on a 99% one for sure.
Twig.
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:03 PM
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In my neck of the woods, the $1000 price tag for what you describe would be about right.
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:31 PM
agaas4 agaas4 is offline
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I was thinking about offering 1000, but he said he's firm at 1100, at least for now. I'll just wait until he comes down a little
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agaas4 View Post
I was thinking about offering 1000, but he said he's firm at 1100, at least for now. I'll just wait until he comes down a little
Might be too late, then. Ask me how I know.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:19 PM
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Might be too late, then. Ask me how I know.
I'm guessing you missed out on a similar deal lol?
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:00 AM
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Default Serial number

A simple thing, as in serial number, makes a huge difference! Is it an early "S" prefix or a late "N" prefix?
jcelect
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:05 AM
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He claims he bought it in 1978 as original so N prefix is my guess.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
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I'm guessing you missed out on a similar deal lol?
Unfortunately, I speak from experience. My theory is-if you want it, buy it. Whatever the price. Another opportunity may never come around again.
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:45 PM
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If you don't buy it over a hundred dollar difference and miss your opportunity for a 99% gun you will be kicking yourself forever! Just buy it. You will be happy! They are not getting any cheaper.
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:22 AM
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You need to decide if your buying a deal or buying a gun.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:47 AM
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Another point:
Are you buying it as a collectable / investment? If that is the case, I can see the discussion about unfired vs 99% and which one is worth how much more.

But if you want one to shoot, there is no point in holding out for an unfired one, since you will change that as soon as you buy it. Then you come down to the decision if paying a 10% premium for such a high-condition specimen is warranted. I would say it is, but it's your money.
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Old 01-14-2016, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Flash View Post
Another point:
Are you buying it as a collectable / investment? If that is the case, I can see the discussion about unfired vs 99% and which one is worth how much more.

But if you want one to shoot, there is no point in holding out for an unfired one, since you will change that as soon as you buy it. Then you come down to the decision if paying a 10% premium for such a high-condition specimen is warranted. I would say it is, but it's your money.
Very good point, I will be using it, but only while hog hunting to so not too often. It's just that I'm in college right now so I'm on a budget and really have to think about what I buy, even if I do have a job. I'm leaning towards buying it to be honest
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Old 01-14-2016, 05:15 PM
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If you are going to use it for Hog Hunting, you may want to consider the Nickel gun, or even a 629 which is essentially the Model 29, but in stainless steel.

The blued 29 would be holstered and it would not maintain the 99% finish that you mentioned. If keeping it pristine doesn't matter, and your view is to let the next person worry about the value, then that is cool too.

This I would have no issue holstering and taking hog hunting:


This one I would not:


But that is just me. To me, my blued Smith and Wessons are Range only guns, as I want to keep the bluing that is on them as it is.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:58 PM
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When you take a gun afield, holstering is only part of what it will be subjected to. Over time, you are bound to run into inclement weather. And no matter how careful I am, my field guns (even my range guns) seem to always get a few bumps and knocks.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:58 PM
agaas4 agaas4 is offline
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Makes sense. Definitely something to think about... I rarely pig hunt, maybe a few times a year and once usually with my revolver so I wouldn't be too worried about it but of course I still wanna keep it in good shape. I also dont plant on ever selling it so I guess thats something to take into consideration as well
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Old 01-16-2016, 12:39 PM
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I have a blued one it is my favorite revolver it wont be sold as long as I'm alive then my son gets it then my grandson and l can only hope he cares for it also it gets shot twelve times a year one cylinder by me and one by my son enjoy it its more than just a revolver
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:10 PM
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Stainless guns are for shooting. Blued guns are to look at.
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:09 PM
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Wow, I've been doing it wrong for so many decades!
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