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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 03-03-2016, 04:27 PM
teletech teletech is online now
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New member here.
I've ordered the SCSW but the suspense is killing me so I might just ask for a couple dates to hold me over. :-)

35-1 M410xx
About a 96% gun, the seller represented it as original (has a matching box+papers) but another vendor at the show said it was a reblue though I saw no indication myself. I took off the side plate (very carefully) to see why the action was a touch gritty in DA and it looked almost unused inside, not even broken in, the medalion still looks to have good upset from the stamping, coupled with perfect case-color on the hammer I think it's original.
Am I missing a good way to tell?

thanks
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:50 PM
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Probably shipped in 1971, but it could have been 1972.
As for a refinish, the best thing you could do is post some pictures. Be sure to show us the right side of the gun.
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:44 AM
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OK, I've taken a couple pics and hopefully managed to attach them.
It really looks a lot worse in the pictures than in person, that close direct flash is harsh.
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:10 AM
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I don't see any obvious signs of a reblue.

I would bet the "expert" who thought it was refinished was preparing to offer to buy it from you, too!
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Old 03-04-2016, 11:36 AM
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Be aware that a Mod 35 is a highly desirable collectors piece as well as a wonderful shooter. It doesn't look bad, and any refinish would destroy any collector interest in the gun and reduce the value by near half. I recommend leaving it alone and enjoying it, but taking good care of it. It will grow in value.
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUFF View Post
I don't see any obvious signs of a reblue.

I would bet the "expert" who thought it was refinished was preparing to offer to buy it from you, too!
I agree with BUFF. I do not see signs of a refinish based upon the two pictures provided of the left side of the gun.
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
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I would bet the "expert" who thought it was refinished was preparing to offer to buy it from you, too!
As it happens he did offer to take it in as part of a deal we were working out but I like to think it was more of a good-natured offer than a predatory one. It looks really good in person and at his age perhaps his eyesight was suspect or he just didn't want to believe it had been sitting in a box just down the isle fom him. :-)

I'm positive no abrasives were used on either side of the gun after the factory markings were applied so I consider the possibility of a reblue vanishingly small, especially considering the condition of the lockwork.
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:41 AM
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So, a related question is what to do about the lockwork. The SA is a lovely 3# but the DA is pretty awful at ~12#, a not trivial part of that is just because it is so factory new. If I smooth the action so it's a better shooter do I actually decrease the value?
Since the finish isn't perfect I wouldn't worry except they are uncommon in any condition.
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Old 04-03-2016, 07:01 PM
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Probably most of the heavy DA pull is due to grit, roughness of parts and an overly heavy rebound spring. A complete disassembly and cleaning inside is the first step. The second step is to polish the bottom and backside slightly on an Arkansas stone, just enough to remove burrs and high spots. The last step is to replace the rebound spring with a lighter one that will still reliably operate the action. The above actions, if properly and correctly done, will not show externally and will not affect the value.
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Old 04-03-2016, 07:25 PM
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Many on this forum have been around gun shows and dealers for decades. I have watched, a number of times, over the years where 'the other guy' would denigrate someone's firearm with the purpose of devaluing for purchase. Happens frequently. You were there, I wasn't, so we can take your assessment of the 'other guy' and his thoughts on a re-blue as you describe.

The J frame guns don't have the opportunity for a 'slick and light' trigger cocking. They can definitely be improved, but, the main spring is pretty stout from the factory for a reason. S&W wants the gun to go bang every time you pull the trigger.
The serious cleaning and 'light' polishing of the internals is your best starting point. Your stone files should be medium or fine grade and go slowly. Clean up, lube up, and carefully reassemble and function test.
I don't subscribe to the notion of changing any springs on the Model 35. I guess I don't see the trigger cocking method of shooting as a primary function of this little target gun. Of course we all want our firearms to be mechanically sound and fit, but, how well does the Model 35 need to perform in the trigger cocking mode.

Clean it, lightly polish the internal flats, clean it again, lube it, and, shoot the poopy out of it.


They are a fun gun at the range. A little lengthy for field carry. Hence my recommendation to not change out any springs.

Oh yeah, did I mention I really like that model?

enjoy,
bdGreen



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Old 04-03-2016, 08:06 PM
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Bruce's post is spot on.

And I like 'em too - but only have this one...



GF
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:25 PM
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I agree that based on your photos the gun looks to have its original finish.

As to the double-action pull, as Bruce said, it is primarily a target revolver and the double-action pull is not such a big deal. If you do lighten the hammer fall too much (by monkeying around with the mainspring, as some do) you will get inconsistent ignition and accuracy problems.

Other than the cleaning and "polishing" already described, I would hate to see you do much else to the gun besides using it. They're not easy to come by. Keep it clean and enjoy shooting it. Congrats on your new sixgun.
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teletech View Post
New member here.
I've ordered the SCSW but the suspense is killing me so I might just ask for a couple dates to hold me over. :-)

35-1 M410xx
About a 96% gun, the seller represented it as original (has a matching box+papers) but another vendor at the show said it was a reblue though I saw no indication myself. I took off the side plate (very carefully) to see why the action was a touch gritty in DA and it looked almost unused inside, not even broken in, the medalion still looks to have good upset from the stamping, coupled with perfect case-color on the hammer I think it's original.
Am I missing a good way to tell?

thanks
Most likely from Oct/Nov time frame 1971. From what I can see it doesn't look like a re-finish, but better non-flash pics taken of both sides with closeups of sideplate & lettering would better help in determining.
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