I am loving my model 10-6 and it shoots great. I do a fair amount of dry firing and I noticed the other day that one of the screws had actually backed out! I screwed it back in and noticed a week later the screw was backing out again.

I am thinking the hammer hitting the frame is creating just the exact vibrations though to back out the screw.

Yesterday, I ordered A-Zooms from Cabela's. I suspect the hammer hitting the A-Zooms will eliminate this from happening.

But is this backing out of the screw highly abnormal and should I be concerned? BTW, I shot through at least 100 ends and the screw did NOT back out.

Take a good look at the threads on both the screw and the hole. Maybe one of them is not quite right. Tighten it up solid. If it keeps doing it you could use a little low yield locktite. I know many people hate it on guns, but, I would hate a screw like that. Then if you disassemble it just remember the screw and heat it up a bit before taking it out. Hold a CLEAN soldering iron tip on it for 10 seconds or so and it will come right out.

Also it is a good idea to check all the screws on guns you use a lot. I keep a good screw driver in my range kit along with one for sights and a spotting scope and a stapler for targets. I don't often find a screw loose, but better safe than sorry.

Hi Rifmon:

I've never heard of this happening, and I'd be really interested to see what others have to say about it. My first thoughts were: 1) do you have the correct screw in the correct place, and 2) is the screw hole stripped?

You didn't say if your Model 10 was used or new, and if used, perhaps someone in the past had opened the side plate and did not put the correct screws in the correct locations - it happens, the screws are not interchangeable, but hey, strange things happen sometimes. Also, a previous owner may have accidentally stripped the screw hole, or it could have even come from the factory that way.

Good luck,

Dave

I would exhaust all other options before trying LockTite. If you do decide to go that route, I think they make a version that doesn't require heating the screw to remove it.

They make a thin plastic film called "plumber's tape" that you may try winding around the screw before installing it. The stuff is so thin you may want to experiment with two or three windings. The stuff is cheap so if it doesn't work you won't be out much.

Another thought:
You may want to pose this question in the Gunsmithing Section of this Forum.

__________________
You're shy a few manners.

Before I popped the side plate on my first weapon I read everything I could. There are some great AGI dvd's on disassembly of S&W revolvers. One tip I picked up was to get a piece of cardboard and outline the sideplate on it and poking holes where the various screws went. Then when removing the screws place them in the appropriate hole in the cardboard. This tip has not failed me yet.

Try some clear fingernail polish on the threads. If that doesn't work then try the locktite.

Hi Targets Guy:

I do the same thing, just to make sure there are no issues - my memory isn't what it used to be. I have the AGI S&W Revolver Disassembly DVD, but was horrified when the gunsmith used his screwdriver to pry the side plate off of the revolver, rather than rap the grip frame with his screwdriver or hammer handle. I know some people do this, but I was taught never to do this - not anymore than using any old screwdriver on the screws, rather than a properly fitted one.

Regards,

Dave

Could not agree more, Dave. I just shake my head when I see a beautiful revolver with a marred side plate caused by someone prying at it. I bought the small Wheeler set from Brownells but am still a nervous wreck when taking off the screw that holds the cylinder in or pulling a stock off.

If your going to use Loctite then use the blue. It doesn't require heat to remove the screw.

__________________
Get off my lawn!

Instead of anaerobic threadlock like LocTite on screws that you know you will be removing later, try Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate. It doesn't bond but rather it operates by friction. Paint it on the male fastener and let it dry for 30-60 min. The same application can be reused up to five times, which then the threads can be cleaned with solvent and toothbrush and the VC-2 reapplied. I swear by it but never at it.

No, use the purple. This is low yield for fine threads.

I have had the crane retention sideplate screw back out in the middle of a match. Made for an exciting reload.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

__________________
NRA Benefactor Member

I had the exact same experience years ago. My former go-to-gunsmith was opening my S&W revolver while I watched. He removed the screws and pried the side-plate off with the screwdriver. I tried to stop him but he just grinned at me and did it. Last revolver of mine he ever worked on!

__________________
Bob.
SWCA 1821

Thanks for the tip. I just ordered a tube from Amazon prime.

The side plates are known for coming loose in the higher power revolvers.
I chose the ruger security six 357 Magnum because of no screws.

Don't use any loctite. Use removable thread locker.

I seen guys using thread locker on the m14 op rod cylindrical guide block.
There's a 620 cylindrical loctite for that. The right loctite for the correct application.

When I installed the helicoils in the aluminum gear housings on the 155mm howitzer for the U.S. ARMY the specs called for laquer paint on the helicoil insert to glue them into the housing.

Blue Loctite. You can get it everywhere including Harbor Freight.

I would check the fit on the side plate. Does it install with reasonable force? If it is twisted the screws will pull it down but they may work back out. At some point in it's life somebody may have pried it and warped it.

Whenever I get a new (to me) gun, part of my procedure when detail stripping, cleaning and lubing is to degrease the screws and screw holes in the frames. Once clean, I snug the screws down but not with brute force of course. No problems with screws backing out. Maybe degreasing the screws and holes has nothing to do with it but I can't help but think it's not good for the screws and threads to be oily.

I was out all day and just read though all of the replies. Thanks very much for the input.

So to answer a few questions I will say that my model 10-6 is approximately from 1977. I just bought it on Gunbroker. It came with what looks like the original holster and I was told by the seller on a phone conversation that it was a police and gun. The gun shoots POA poi and I'm guessing what holster wear there is came from the holster I received which is really cool!

Whether the screws are mixed up I'm not sure but the side plate is looking really flush with no evidence of a Mr Bubba's handy- work. Everything is tight and pretty much perfect as far as appearance goes.

Also, the screw does not seem to be stripped. It tightens down in a very positive manner with a very ensuring stop. It's strange that this screw stayed secure under the force of recoil in the100 to 150 rnds fired but worked loose under only under the vibration of dry firing. Not see what that's about.

I will visually inspect the threads of the screw in the morning.

Thanks for all the input and I will look up the products described in the responses.

Blue locktite.

Also, as I mentioned, I have A-Zooms on the way. I plan to dry fire a gazillion times with those on the first few days to see if this screw backs out. I'm thinking the snap caps are going to change the conditions slightly which may effect the vibrations causing the reverse force on the screw.

The side plate, even with this screw almost all the way unscrewed l, which was the position of the screw when I first noticed it, appeared flush and tight. It looks like the plate was never removed at all. Fit is tight as can be.

I'm lucky I didn't lose the screw! But now I'm watching it like a hawk!

Rifmon:

I forgot to ask - have you thought about contacting the S&W factory about this issue? They might be willing to send you a shipping label and take a look at it for you.

Regards

Dave

In the days before there was Loctite most of us used a dab of clear fingernail polish. It works great but is easier to break free than Loctite.

I would just de-grease the screw and the screw hole, then snug the screw in. Then try the dry firing and see if it loosens up again. If it does, then use some thread locker, the blue or purple.

__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I think the frame is flexing the plate. Could it happen more as the screws come loose? Maybe?

Replace the screw - NO Locktite on Sideplate Screws IMHO. Make sure they are correctly tightened.

I'll offer a solution that I haven't seen mentioned yet. Stop abusing a
nearly 40 yr old used revolver by countless dryfiring, cycling of the
action parts for what reason? S&W revolvers are just mechanical
devices comprised of various steel parts, some of which are pretty
small and require close fitting to function correctly. This issue has
been brought up before and it seems to me that many S&W owners
may love their revolvers but have virtually no real concept of them
as mechanical devices. They are subject to wear and breakage from
use just like anything else. What possible purpose is there to sitting
around, probably in front of the tv, and trying to wear your old gun out?

Maybe you're right. I've since stopped dry firing and I am waiting for the A-Zooms. But from what you're saying, working the action is taxing the overall mechanics of the gun. I've never heard it put that way.

Others say to use various products on the threads of the screw or degrease the screw, send revolver to S&W, get a new screw, etc. I appreciate all of the suggestions and will probably do a combination of the above starting with the least involved. In other words, sending to S&W would be the last on my list.

My plan is to diminish dry firing but when I do, use the A-zooms. The snap caps will eliminate some of the vibrations sent through the frame, (in theory) and will reduce frame firing pin channel hazards. The cycling of all the moving parts will continue but I've never heard that stresses the revolver before. I'll unscrew this and degrees and tighten.

I'll report back on my results, all the while, watching that screw to avoid the possibility of loss.

You must have been shooting a Colt. S&Ws have yokes; Colts have cranes.

__________________
John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Oh Pulleeeze - You know, that cylinder swingy-out part.

__________________
NRA Benefactor Member

I have seen this same attitude toward S&W revolvers
expressed on here several times before and I can only wonder
how seemingly otherwise intelligent people can believe this.
How is it that anyone can believe that mechanical devices
made of small carefully fitted steel parts are by some magic
impervious to wear when subjected to thousands of cycles?
Is there any precedent for this apparent immunity from the
laws of physics that you can point to? This is what I was
refering to in my other post.

You oughta see how many times they are dry fired during the fitting and assembly process . . . .

__________________
Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

I do know I've read of people dry firing their revolvers with the use of snap caps. I've not read or heard of accounts of a revolver being worn out by dry fire other than firing pin or firing pin channel damage. Sure, a part may fail on any mechanical devise but I'm sure I've read others referring to a "poor man's trigger job" implying a certain amount of dry firing.

I accepted your initial comment as instructive but I take your second comment as demeaning.

One of my pre-owned S&W's came with a complimentary 'boogered up' screw. I called S&W to order a replacement and they just sent me one for free. Worth a try.

__________________
But then, what do I know?

Good to know. I'll do that if all else fails. Next 100 rnds at the range and any dry firing, I'll be looking to see if it happens again.

Expecting those A-Zooms any day.

Thanks

I've never tried this on side plate screws, but have used a little drop of honey on different screws, especially grip screw on semi-autos. Seems to work good.

Never tried honey.

But I did get my 6 A-zooms today

So I plan to dry fire enough to know if the screw is going to back out still.

The nice thing about snap caps in revolvers vs semi's is that you need to dry fire 6 (or 5) times to impact one snap cap. They should last a lot longer.

Is it the sideplate screw just above and forward of the trigger? I've had these work loose in a number of S&Ws, though not nearly to the point of coming out. I don't dry fire, but a good bit of shooting will certainly loosen this screw on some guns.

Yes. That's the one. I've owned many Smiths and this is the first time it's happened to me.

Nice to know I'm not alone in this but I'm now aware of the potential so my attention will be in it between re-speed-loads.

Just a quick not on Snap - Caps.......

The Tipton brand is far superior to the A-zooms IMHO. Try them and you will see what I mean - especially for long term usage - the Tiptons stand up and perform much better.

instead of Loctite, a trick my father uses is to put a heavy syrup such as Karo on the threads. Since it's water soluble you can easily remove it if needed. He has several large caliber rifles that he hunts brown bear in AK with. The scope mount screws on them are all secured with Karo dark syrup or molasses. They are either in .375 H&H or .338 Win Mag and have sufficient recoil to test the syrup's application and use. His 7mm Win Mag is also secured in this fashion but only used on light game in the lower 48.

I've used blue Locktite for many decades on everything gun related. On S&W revolvers, I've used it on ejection rods that tended to back out, as well as, screws. I've used it on the screws for scope rings. I've never had any negative experiences with it. Normal screwdrivers with regular hand pressure will allow you to remove the threaded part, i.e. screws.

Well I waited long enough to know that for whatever reason, with the snap caps A-zooms, no amount of dry firing has backed out that screw.

Just thought I'd let everyone know.

But I will continue to keep an eye on it when firing at the range. And I probably will get blue locktite because my grip screws on my CZ 75b have been backing out at the range. Very frustrating

Okay, is this unusual: I have a new 642. So far it's only been dry fired, about 1,000 times with snap caps. The other day, the side plate screw, upper left, backed out. I tightened it down, but now it starts to back out after only about 20 dry fires. This is not my first S&W, but I've never had this happen before. Does the revolver need to be sent to the factory? Is there an easy fix? This is to be my EDC, but not with a screw that wants to pop out.