Model 36 with great bluing but a few spots of rust on the frame and some peppering on the back strap. Other than keeping it oiled up is there anything else to be done? Such a shame to have that beautiful deep bluing screwed up from neglect. Picture shows one such spot.

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I have a beautiful Md 14-2 with similar issues. Proceed with extreme caution as you can easily make things worse. What I did was soak the rust spots with kroil (at least 6 hours). Then after a wipe down with a clean rag I used a very light (index finger only) application of Flitz polish on the affected parts. Here's where you have to be very careful. It would be easy at this point to remove all of the rust flecks but you will also remove some of the finish. And even if all of the rust is removed you will still have spots. All this being said, you might be well-advised to just live with what you have, a beautiufl gun with a few pimples. Who cares?

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I'm gonna grow fins.

Second vote for Kroil or ballistol, followed by Flitz. Just go slow and don't overdo. I had similar spots on a M29 a few years back and was able to get rid of all the rust spots . Good luck and take your time.

WHEN DONE, BE SURE AND WAX-- JMHO

I vote for bronze wool and and Kroil. Bronze is softer than steel, and thus won't scratch the metal, but go easy with it.

Also, I've heard a pencil eraser can remove rust without damaging the surrounding blueing.

I let my daughter use or rather take with her on a trip to San Diego CA from Yuma AZ my M-36. during the summer. With lots of lose water and the gun being under the driver seat, it got wet and some corrosion on the cylinder. I sent it to Smith and Wesson and had it Nickeled. It was 30+ years old at the time and needed refinished beyond the San Diego trip. It now looks like a new gun (done 6 years ago)

Don't be afraid to refinish it!

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A Snider squibbed n the Jungle

Another vote for Kroil, but I follow it with Mothers Mag which is not quite as abrasive as Flitz

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John

Yes, definitely wax. I use Renaissance Wax which protects down to the molecular level of the metal (at least that's what they say). It is a great product. I also use Johnson's Paste Wax. It seems to work better (for me) on wood grips. I even use it on the inside of the grips and I wish previous owners' had done the same so I wouldn't have those nasty dark oil stains. Oh well.

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I'm gonna grow fins.

Not too much in this world is perfect! Try any or all of the tips mentioned. But, I could live with what you are experiencing. (if not careful, you could make it worse) Bob

A light buff with oily 0000 steel wool will work perfectly and wont hurt the bluing.

Kroil, BRONZE wool, and a copper penny to flake off bits of rust after soaking in Kroil. Avoid steel wool, it will harm bluing quickly, bronze wool does the job better.

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Get off my lawn!

For light surface rust and freckling , go over it with Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover.
Rub carefully , a small area at a time, when the rubbing cloth no longer shows brown but just shows gray , you have polished away the rust. It's an extremely fine polish and will not damage/remove the factory blue.
I cleaned up the a terrible looking model 58 by slowing working over every surface like this, came out nice...nicer than I thought it would look, that's it on my avatar.
The copper penny is good too but it must be dated 1982 or earlier,these are 95 % copper.
Starting in 1983 they are 97.5 % zinc and will damage the finish.
Gary

Any use of steel wool, pencil erasers, or polishing compounds will remove bluing and do permanent damage to your gun.

Soak the rust with penetrating oil, let it soak,rub the area with a copper penny or the mouth of a fired and flattened brass rifle casing, and then wipe with a clean cloth. Anything more will make the gun worse than it is now.

Thank you all for ideas!