Recently i got a gift from my my uncle .22 revolver CTG bearing 6x462 on the left side of the but, and on the right side of the but is 7145. can you tell me more details of this revolver, thanks.

What is the serial# on the bottom of the butt? That is the "real" serial#.

well, Let me try to clarify again. At the yoke printed is Mod.63 The butt left side is 6x462. the same # 6x462 is seen at the yoke as well. Some places at the butt S623 ...H12 on the right side of the butt is 7145. At The bottom of the butt appears be the model # M166XXX of course the barrel length is 4 inches.
With that i hope you can help me out to identify the type of the gun i am having . Thank you.

You have a Model 63 .22/32 Kit Gun in stainless steel. This model was manufactured between 1977-1998. The serial# is the one on the bottom of the grip frame or "butt" of the revolver serial# M166XXX. The other numbers you see are a combination of inspectors markings, assembly numbers that mean nothing once the firearm leaves the factory. Your serial# dates to about 1981.

Can i fire .22 magnum with this revolver ?

NO! Absolutely not

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Old paratrooper in NC

There is a very similar model to your model 63, the 651, that will fire .22 Magnum. It would be stamped .22 M.R.F. (Magnum Rim Fire) on the right barrel. This round is longer than the .22 LR and will not seat fully in your gun, so it cannot be used.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

wow,,
that's great, one step knowledge for me, i would love to get that model 651 too ! one more question.. if i have .22 MRF, does it mean that I can fire .22 magnum as well as .22 LR ?

Welcome from the Pine Barrens of southern New Jersey.

To the best of my knowledge, a 22LR will NOT interchange with a 22MRF. You would be looking to damage a fine handgun.

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Judge control not gun control!

Can i do cold bluing with this stainless steel .22LR revolver

No. Your revolver is made of a stainless steel alloy. While it is not rust proof, it is rust resistant. Rust is the oxidation of metal, and bluing is a form of oxidation, so the metal will resist the reaction that colors the metal. The factory (Smith & Wesson) has tried several times to produce blued stainless steel handguns, but the results haven't looked much like bluing or been very durable. The darkly finished stainless steel slides on some of their auto pistols is more of a coating than bluing.

As for being able to shoot both .22LR and .22 Magnum Rim Fire from one gun, it requires two different cylinders, one for each chambering, as the Magnum round is both FATTER and LONGER than the Long Rifle. S&W and others have made .22 rimfire revolvers that have 2 cylinders, one for each, but they are usually .22 MRF guns like the Model 48,651 or 650 that have an extra cylinder for .22 LR, because the barrel for the .22 MRF is bored slightly larger than for the .22 LR, close enough to work. If you try to shoot .22 LR in a .22 MRF chamber, it often ruptures and splits the brass case, spits stuff out of the barrel/cylinder gap and the accuracy can be poor. Out of a 4 inch barrel, the Magnum round doesn't really give you much extra power, anyway.

You have a very nice handgun there. Enjoy it.

Thank you very much for your valuable comments. it really helps.

Recently I got .22 M.R.F CTG revolver model 51, nickle/crome finish, Can anyone tell me how good or bad is this hand gun. Its the first time I hold .22 magnum.. Also I want to know if i could fire normal .22 Lr with this gun.

I forgot to mention that, its 2" barrel rubberized grip

No.
The .22 MRF (WRM) will shoot only that longer, larger diameter, more powerful cartridge. A long rifle will likely stick in the chamber or split.

Please show pictures, I have not seen a 2" Model 51.

A Nickle plated Model 51 (2" barrel) is an excellent handgun, and very desirable by many people. It is a quality handgun and well maintained will grow in value.

NO, 22 LR and 22MRF are significantly different in size, both diameter and length and can not be shot in the same firearm. If you attempt to fire a 22 RF in a 22 MRF revolver the 22 LR case will split and may cause hot gasses and particles to be spit out and injure yourself or others in your vicinity. (Never attempt to fire any ammunition in a firearm it was not designed to fire).

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Thank you, please tell me which year this gun is manufactured, and want to know how to open the rubberized grip as well and hope to find the gun serial # inside. Can anyone show the picture of the gun. I honestly don't know how to post the picture of my gun

one more question,, can anyone tell me is this .22 magnum (hollow point) handgun powerful enough for self defence compare to Belgium browning 1910 (.32 ACP )pistol. thanks

To all the people who are about to say that a .22LR is not suitable for self defense...
Let me shoot you in the face with one, and then lets see how you feel about it.

ha ha.. no shooting pls.. i just want to know the comparison between .22 Magnum hollow point revolver and Belgium 1910 model .32 pistol which one is a better choice.

I would think the 22 magnum would be a much better defense cartridge. More kinetic energy than a 32 ACP. You can check this at Wikipedia (I did).

The 32 ACP has a max of 177 ft/lbs of kinetic energy in the highest loading shown on Wikipedia. The 22 WMR round has a max kinetic energy of 324 ft/lbs energy, which is almost double that of 32 ACP.

Someone got their panties in a bunch awfully quick. So quickly that you missed that he was asking about 22 WMR for self defense.

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Get off my lawn!

This is THE criteria I always use to rate a weapon for self defense.
Since I also don't want to be hit in the face with a Daisy BB gun, a rock, or even a hard snowball, I have often carried a BB gun, rocks, and snowballs for self defense.
NO one can argue that they aren't effective, cause I'm still here.


I've always heard it expressed as "panties in a wad".
Is that the same thing, or is there a significant difference between a 'bunch' and a 'wad'?
Please let me know. I'm always hunting new phrases.

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

Let me get this straight. The gun is marked Mod 63 and you ask what model it is?

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No life story has happy end.

lalfa, my impression is you have limited experience with firearms. Your Belgium 1910 .32 ACP (7.65mm Browning) is, in fact, the more powerful handgun (see ballistics shown below) but may be a far more dangerous handgun for you to be handling than a revolver. In any case you ought to find yourself some training for both your sake and those around you. Anyway, the differences between the .22 Magnum round (out of a 2" barrel) and a .32 ACP round is:

.22 Magnum 40~45 grain projectile approximately 900~1,000 fps out of a 2" barrel (I've chronographed this round from a short barrel handgun). More info below:

BBTI - Ballistics by the Inch :: Results

.32 ACP 60 to 71 grain projectile approximately 950~1,000 fps from a "normal" length pistol barrel. Hollow point rounds are available for this cartridge if so desired (Winchester Silver Tip 60 grain).

Rich

I think either word could be used.
Bunch
verb
1. collect or fasten into a compact group.
"she bunched the carnations together"
synonyms: bundle, clump, cluster, group, gather; pack
"he bunched the reins in his hand"
form or cause to form tight folds.
"his pants bunched around his ankles"
synonyms: gather, ruffle, pucker, fold, pleat
"her skirt bunched at the waist"
"he was so angry about a post he got his panties in a bunch"

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Get off my lawn!

I like this post (which is why I "liked" it), but in your part of the country, I would be very cautious about carrying snowballs for self defense, particularly pocket carry. Prima facie evidence of malice aforethought? That's if it actually lasts long enough to use.

The 32 ACP has a max of 177 ft/lbs of kinetic energy in the highest loading shown on Wikipedia. The 22 WMR round has a max kinetic energy of 324 ft/lbs energy, which is almost double that of 32 ACP. (posted earlier)
well, the subject is becoming very interesting now .32 ACP bigger grain higher fps should have been higher in ft/lb, (foot pound energy) but its not so..why ? the projectile having higher ft/lb should have been higher in fps also..?!!

Trying to figure out if one flea-power round is better than another for defense is kind of like trying to figure out if a fly swatter or a rolled-up newspaper is more effective.
Don't sweat the small stuff. Unless you live in Afghanistan, you ain't gonna be shootin' it out with a bunch of hostiles anyway.
Oh, and: it's .22 long rifle, not long range. And no da*n it, you can't interchange .22 long rifle and .22 magnum. Never. Ever. Period.

lalfa, you are not looking at the same barrel lengths to compare kinetic energy. Using a 4" barrel between the two cartridges, the .32ACP averages about 140 ft. lbs and the 22 WMR is right around 140 ft. lbs. Go here BBTI - Ballistics by the Inch :: Home to make your comparisons.

Stu

Nope. Thankfully, it won't fit . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

I think it's a regional thing. We like to use "all wound around the axle" here . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

lalfa, right in the Wiki article is states; "Test barrel length: 24 inches (610 mm)" !!!!! You will be shooting that cartridge from a much shorter barrel. All else being equal, from a 2" through to a 24" barrel, generally, velocities will be higher the longer the barrel length. There are exceptions. Some low powered rimfire and handgun cartridges "poop-out" somewhere around the 16" barrel length.

As other posters have mentioned, both rounds are very light for personal protection. But I'm responding to the questions you asked and, furthermore, those are the handgun calibers available to you, so telling you to go buy a (take your pick); 9mm, .357 Sig, .40 S&W, 10mm, .45 ACP, 500 S&W or an 88mm anti-tank cannon, would serve no purpose.

Rich

.22 M.R.F. CTG revolver 2" barrel crome/nickle finish rubber hand grip
can anyone tell me how to remove the rubber grip, its pretty hard, do we need tools to remove rubber grip, no nuts, no hole. seeking advice.

This is .22 magnum i am talking about pl tell me how to open rubber grip..very tight, any externel tools required . would like to check the serial #.

Sorry folks.. i forgot to mention Smith&Wesson Revolver. Kindly tell me more about this Gun.

Please have a look at this post and give us the ID information for your revolver?

To IDENTIFY your Gun >

A nickel 2" barrel model 51 would be a most unusual gun. If original it is more likely a 2" model 651.

Also, your photos did not appear on your post; here are instructions to do that:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/faq.php...b3_attachments

The grips/stocks should not be super difficult to remove. There may be a large screw on the bottom holding it in place if one is not visible on the side.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Or, if you wanted to use the vernacular of our friends across the pond, you could say he "got his knickers in a twist", or "knickers in a knot". I've heard both used to good effect.

Regards,

Dave

Please tell me about this Revolver, where is the gun serial # printed,.The rubber grip has no screw, very tightly fixed, wondering where to open. I guess very rare gun, kindly share about this gun.

Attached Images

Smith&Wesson Revolver.jpg (54.4 KB, 107 views)

The yoke portion shows 51 model, looks like 3 screws, pls share the easy way to open the rubber grip.

Attached Images

22 Magnum revolver Yoke.jpg (40.4 KB, 35 views)

this picture might be better

Attached Images

22 Magnum revolver Yoke.jpg (40.3 KB, 58 views)

SCSW shows no 2" Model 51.
There were 1251 2" Model 651 stainless made in 1999. There are detail differences, however.
The serial number should be on the bottom of the butt.

I think you just have to get your fingernails or a thin tool under the edges of the grip and spread it enough to come off the frame.

You are welcome to add " panties in a twist" I use it on a regular basis and it is effective. Cheers

Before you start prying anything, please post some better pictures of the grips, including both sides, a better shot of the bottom of the grip, and the back. Someone here ought to be able to help with that information.

And, from what I see, you have what is called a "flat latch" model 51. If it is as unusual as the learned members here are indicating, it might be worthgetting a letter to authenticate it from the Smith & Wesson historian, Roy Jinks.

If I remember right, the flat latch was long gone by the time stainless steel was used in revolver manufacturing.

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Even older, even crankier....

Please tell me what is the difference between model 651 and 651-1 in S&W .22 magnum revolver.
Thank you.

651-1 (1988) New yoke retention system and end of first production run.
651-1 (1992) Reintroduction with 1/8" sights.

Those appear to be Hogue MonoGrips... There should be a screw in the butt...remove the screw and slide the grips downward...

That appears to be a very very rare gun... If marked 51 and a flat latch...that would be worth a couple of grand... Nickel 51s are rare enough...a real 2" would be incredible... Even if it is a 651 they are bringing $1500.

Bob

Disreguard above...didn't see the picture of the butt... Those grips are by Hogue...you need a grip removal tool to get them off. It is a U shaped piece of plastic that is inserted near the bottom of the backstrap to pop the grips past the locator pin in the base of the frame... My new Ruger Redhawk 4.2" .41 Magnum has the same grips...

Bob

.22magnum out of a 2" barrel ....... how do you say big "fireball"

The .22 magnum was developed in the late 1950s as a hunting cartridge.... really meant for rifle use to get the most out of the round.....IIRC someone recently introduced a "revolver self defense" cartridge...........................a .22magnum CZ rifle is my favorite 'walking in Penn's woods rifle".

Google is your friend.......

Horaday "Critical Defense" .22 WMR.......

Hornaday literature claims terminal ballistics comparable to the .380 round.


Looking at the pics........ looks like the barrel markings are laser engraved ...... newer Hogue bantam grips ........ flat latch!!!!

I'd ask your Uncle about the history/origin of that gun.

This thread has a lot of twists and turns in it but not many wads or bunches. I appreciate the OP's problem with the rubber stocks made by Hogue. A friend gifted me a Model 10 snubby recently with the same type of stocks. I eventually asked him how to get the darn things off?? He said "Oh sorry the tool to get them off must be lost"! Perhaps Hogue can send another.

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Bob.
SWCA 1821